Fork Support - how to use???

[tnrider]

I recently tried one of the plastic fork supports for trailering my CRF450 - installes between front wheel and fender - intended to keep forks from compressing yet can strap front end down.

Do they work? What did I do wrong? My bike had major sway going down the road - so much that I stopped and removed the device. I had it cranked down well too - could see it compressing the wheel under the device.

I want something so that I can leave the bike(s) on the trailer - to simplify my life...

Any ideas?

 

[Lorin]

Some of the plastic, aftermarket fork supports are a little flimsy and can create their own problems. I just bought a section of 3 inch PVC and cut it to length (around 11-12 inches). The PVC will fit snugly around the tire and inside the fender, while still allowing you to crank down your ties.

 

[RM_guy]

The best way to use those things is to put it in a box and leave it there. There have been a few threads on this subject and you really don't need it. The forks will be fine with out it.

 

[darringer]

I use a 4x4 piece of wood between the fender and tire. Works very well. Funny thing though. My buddy had an '02 CRF450 and the damn thing would sway all over the place with the block on his bike. Once he took it off, the bike was fine. Go figure, they have the same forks as my CR.

 

[jboomer]

I second the PVC pipe.

 

[tnrider]

I don't quite get the pvc pipe thing - how does it fit around the wheel? did you contour the end into the shape of the wheel? any photos?

 

[Lorin]

No need to shape the pvc to fit the wheel. The circular shape will fit between the knobby's of the tire, and also provide a fairly tight fit up near the fender. Once cinched down, the pvc will press into the tires and the knobby's, providing a very snug fit. If you are wanting extra insurance, I have seen people use a "T-fitting" pvc with the bottom half removed to provide more surface area contact with the tire. I have both, and dont know that one works much differently than the other. Keep it simple.

 

[RM_guy]

You guys are wasting you time on any kind of support block. Here's a few threads you should be reading on this subject.

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80255

http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80792

 

[RJ-KDX]

Originally posted by RM_guy
You guys are wasting you time on any kind of support block. Here's a few threads you should be reading on this subject.

I have read them and understand your point. Anyhoo, I still use one and won't cart my bike anywhere without it. I've strapped it both ways, and I feel a fork brace is more secure for hauling. JMO.......

 

[jboomer]

Those threads don't prove anything. You've made your case that it "supposedly" doesn't prevent weeping seals. I can buy that. You struggled at an attempt to convince us that it doesn't prevent spring fatigue. I still don't buy that. But whether it contributes to stability while tied down in a vehicle is still up in the air. Some of us believe it does. You are persistent.

 

[Wolf]

I am actually going to use a 4x4 next time I haul, just to find out for myself.
I don't care about weeping seals or spring fatique. In my case the reason I am going to try it is stability on the trailer. I have lost a bike once due to the strap coming "unhooked". Fortunately it fell towards the inside of the trailer:)
It does make a little bit of sense to me that if the fork can't be compressed past a certain point, the hooks can't come undone as easily.
How long are the braces y'all use?

 

[dirt bike dave]

IMO, the biggest problem with bike instability is the tie down mounts located too far forward.  I think this was mentioned before.   Move those tie down locations back about 18" to 24" from the front corner of the bed/trailer and the bike gets a whole lot more stable.

I've tried wooden supports and PVC supports before.  Not worth the trouble to use if your tie down locations are correct.

 

[darringer]

Wolf, I cut my 4x4 about 1.5" shorter than the distance between the tire and the inside of the front fender. Forks compress about 2" total after it's cinched down. For me it works very well. I drive over some bumpy roads with the trailer and my bike is rock solid. (Pun intended!)

 

[markthomps]

Hell with the supports. I've even tried balls (borrowed, not personal usage items) tucked between fender and tire. What works the best and provides insurance against tie-down failure is using two tie-downs per side. You don't have to strap the forks down as tightly and it's still tight and stable.

 

[Wolf]

dirt bike dave, mine are moved back to about where the bottoms of the front forks are. When I did that, it did help some, but I am still not 100% confident.
Paranoid?....probably.
Maybe I'll just get the ATK bike shoes:)....or an enclosed trailer!

 

[dirt bike dave]

Bike Shoes AND an enclosed trailer -  now that's the ticket.  A friend of mine has that set up and that is as easy as it gets.  :thumb:

 

[RM_guy]

This whole subject bores me. I'm not going to comment on it again. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink :eek:

 

[jmics19067]

Originally posted by dirt bike dave
IMO, the biggest problem with bike instability is the tie down mounts located too far forward.  I think this was mentioned before.   Move those tie down locations back about 18" to 24" from the front corner of the bed/trailer and the bike gets a whole lot more stable.

I've tried wooden supports and PVC supports before.  Not worth the trouble to use if your tie down locations are correct.

:thumb:

This whole subject bores me. I'm not going to comment on it again. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink

:laugh:

The only problems I have ever had strapping down a bike is the front wheel turning on some loose leaves or something. When the wheel turns the one strap will get loose and boink off it comes. Having a slippery bed liner or a flat plate for a bed instead of the stock hill and valley bed of a pickup greatly aggravates the problem. Keep the front wheel from turning and you wont even have to cinch down the straps tight. The idea of keeping your straps back a little is trying to pull the bar ends apart which keeps the wheel straight.
The pressure on the fork seals is not an issue otherwise every shock would become a geyser as soon as you pumped in the 150lbs of nitrogen but strangely I have seen a lot more forks leak then I do shocks :think:
Springs wear out under use not static loads , static loads will harm the spring when you deform the spring beyond its intended range of motion. Rather difficult to do while still in the fork.

 

[RJ-KDX]

Originally posted by RM_guy
This whole subject bores me. I'm not going to comment on it again. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink :eek:

I'm sorry you feel that way. :(

Just because someone uses something that you don't like doesn't call for childish behavior. That's what makes this country so great, Freedom of Choice.

I'm sure you have some product that I don't like, but I won't tell you. Why? Cause I don't care, it's your money, spend it however you wish. Hell, I didn't even comment on what brand of bike you ride. Ooops.

:confused:

 

[GREENBEAN]

I use a piece of notched 4x4 to help stabilize my bike while on the trailer. It definitely helps as far as I am concerned. With all these posts I cannot believe anyone hasnt stated that a spring compressed for long periods of time fully bottomed or close for weeks, months.. will compress and shorten. It is just a property of metal.. The coils will relax.. IT may be more for some but it does happen. I can equate this with a rifle. IT was left in the cocked position for almost a year. The spring compressed and now it will not fire a round cause the Tension is less... I am not talking about the seals here at all...