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Message: [QUOTE="P_Taylor, post: 182537, member: 18876"] Jaybird, I`m not trying to say anyone is wrong , it is a matter of opinion. Some will say the heavier spring is needed and some don`t think it is. The liability aspect of it is why I think many suggest it. I use them in mine but I have shot a lot of rounds with the standard spring without problems. I use 18.5 lb. recoil springs with standard velocity 230gr ammuntion in a 5". Standard rate is 16. The firing pin block is in effect anytime the trigger isn`t pulled. The reason it isn`t in effect when the slide goes to home position is the cycle time is quicker than a persons finger. The trigger is still pulled when the firing cycle has completed. Lock your slide back and look under the slide , on the right side you will see a round pin. This is the sliding pin that blocks the firing pin , it is spring loaded. There is a lever set-up in the frame that pushes up on this when the trigger is pulled. When the slide goes back it could let the sliding pin move and block the pin but if the trigger is still pulled and the lever is still up it will disengage the safety as the slide goes to home position. The military did drop tests years ago when the pistol was being adopted. Gunmakers have also did these tests. The 1911 without the firing pin block will discharge if dropped on the muzzle from over 20 feet. The firing pin block is meant to stop this type of ND , as an example if you were in a car accident and the firearm struck something in the car at a high enough G force it would be like dropping the firearm on the muzzle. The firing pin block prevents the handgun from discharging from impacts. This is just my opinion on how the 1911 and 1991s work , I`m sure others have different ideas on things. Do you use shok buffers on your recoil spring guide? They will improve the life of your handgun and they are cheap too. Pat Taylor [/QUOTE]

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