Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,348
3
They work great! The fork is much more responsive to sharp hits like rocks and roots, and works really well on bigger hits and whoops.

You have to completely disassemble the fork. Keeping the damper rod assembly from turning while you unscrew the big allen bolt that holds it down is the tricky part, but there are various ways to solve this problem. When my buddy and I did ours, we cut a pair of notches into an aluminum tube from a vacuum 'wand' extension, and stuck that into the fork.

After getting the forks apart, you drill out the holes in the existing damper rod with a large drill bit. This allows way more fork oil to flow through the damper on compression. You also cut a section off the end of the damper rod, and the emulator sits on the shortened damper rod. The oil must now pass through the emulator, which is spring loaded. You can adjust the emulator by tightening the spring, but you must pull the fork springs out and fish out the emulator to make adjustments. Your existing clickers will no longer work.

It's a great mod once you get the emulator set up right. It makes a huge improvement to the bike and is well worth the trouble, IMO.
 

twocycle

Member
Feb 21, 2002
78
0
I have been thinking of doing the same thing to my 89. Does anyone know of a good
place to buy them?
 

fuzzy

~SPONSOR~
Jul 26, 2002
447
0
Anybody ever just enlarge the holes "some" without the use of the emulator?
 

89kdx200rdr

~SPONSOR~
Apr 19, 2003
488
0
dave i saw that you had them in a 90 kdx somewhere. did you cut your compression damping adjuster valve or can it be replaced with a bolt?
 

89kdx200rdr

~SPONSOR~
Apr 19, 2003
488
0
one more question dave. did you drill the holes in your damping rods exactly as shown in the instructions? my rods have 3 holes in them now. two that go all the way thru down at the threads and one that is perpendicular to them about 28 mm up. was wondering if i should just drill thru that hole to get the 4th hole and then put two more perpendicular and 10mm above them or put them 28mm above so all the holes are spaced evenly. i already called racetech the guy i got on the phone must have been late for lunch. thanks
 

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,348
3
I did the emulators on my '90 when they were a pretty new product, about 1992. That was a long time ago, but I don't remember adding any all new holes. The only drilling I remember was to hog out the pair of 'all the way through' holes at the lower end of each damper rod. Counting each side of the two separate 'all the way through' holes = 4 bigger holes per damper rod. I don't remember doing anything to the higher, offset hole.

It's probably a good idea to check with RT.

My wife will verify that my memory sucks, but I know the fork mod made the bike much better - no more 'hydraulic lock' when you hit a super sharp rock or tough root, and much better at high speed stuff when combined with stiffer springs.
 
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twocycle

Member
Feb 21, 2002
78
0
89kdx200rdr

I have ordered a set of Gold Valves for my 89.
I was just curious what Race Tech's response was to your two questions regarding
the holes and the damping adjuster. Also were you able to reuse the two gaskets on
the damping valve?

Thanks
 

89kdx200rdr

~SPONSOR~
Apr 19, 2003
488
0
the racetech guy i got on the phone kinda just blew me off. i sent them an email and never got a reply. i asked the guy if i should space the holes every 30 mm instead of 10mm like it says in the instructions. he asked what kinda bike and i told him an 89 kdx200 he left the phone for about 15 seconds and came back and said yeah you'll be alright. anyway i finally arranged the holes 10mm apart and perpendicular to each other. thing is i ended up with 7 holes in each rod. i had two 5/16 holes and the smaller one 30mm up the rod. i didnt enlarge the small hole. i ended up cutting the compression damper flush with the threaded portion and yes i reused the copper gaskets. i was in a hurry and didnt take any pictures. i got a 14mm hex and holder for impact wrench from the mac man. this is the only way to go.
 

twocycle

Member
Feb 21, 2002
78
0
89KDXRDR

You weren't kidding when you said an air impact wrench was the way to go. I don't think I could have gotten them off without one. It took a good five minutes per side to set them free. When I cut the compression damper flush with the threaded portion will there be any sealing/leakage problems due to the shaft running through the damper?

Thanks
 

89kdx200rdr

~SPONSOR~
Apr 19, 2003
488
0
no leaks so far i think there are orings in there. i used the abrasive wheel on a bench grinder to cut the comp damp rod. either go to or order a 14mm allen from northern tool. i used a shovel handle and the allen wrench to get the forks back together and snugged up. i put red loctite on the bottom bolts (comp adjusters) dont forget the brass washers. then i hit them with the impact wrench again. you need to be careful when putting them back together with the impact turn the pressure down. one other thing well actually two. you are going to have to shorten your preload spacers by 10 mm. the instructions say to set oil level with emulators in place this takes forever. set oil level as normal but 10mm less then use mechanical fingers to lower emulator onto damping rod. put your forks together with springs and all spacers and emulator in place and no oil (you have to do this to check your preload spacers) then you will see how the spacer should look when seated. this way you will know for sure the emulator is seated after you add the oil and your droppin the emulator in. i weigh 175 and i first tried 10w oil at 130mm from top of tube(before i dropped emulator in) and i left the valve as is. havent had a good day long ride on it yet but from what ive done around the house they feel alot better.
 

89kdx200rdr

~SPONSOR~
Apr 19, 2003
488
0
if you run into anything else just let me know i check the forums or try too every day
 
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