Gutless KDX200

19Brendan81

Member
Mar 6, 2005
153
0
Hi Guys,
I own a 1991 KDX 200 and I previously owned an 86 IT200. My Kawasaki is ultra clean, in great nic, everything works however its so weak it couldnt fight its way out of a wet paper bag. Hill climbing is impossible, even in first gear it bogs down. Power up high seems fine, however in terms of bottom end its laughable. I have more chance popping a mono in my car than on my bike. My IT was sooo much faster its ridiculous. All this leads me to think that there's something desperatley wrong with the bike. I bought it a couple of months ago and it came with a legitimate reciept for a half engine rebuild (new pisotons, rings seals etc). I havetnt checked compression but assume its OK. The carby has been leaned out as far as it can go (needle clip in top position). I suspect the KIPS valve, however would appreciate your thoughts. Plese help me before I die from too much dust inhalation, caused by constant riding at the back of the pack.
 

Idaho Charley

Member
Jul 20, 2000
74
0
If it is very weak on the bottom end it could be a number of things. One of the things you mentioned was the needle clip was in the leanest postion. This will give a weak low end. Got to have fuel. (Lean may NOT be Mean if you go too far with it

Suggest you try searching for a KDX jetting guide for your year bike for a starter and rejet accordingly. Check your reed valve at the same time. After your jetted and you have determined your reed valves are ok then check your KIPS power valve. It could be stuck open and in need of TLC.
 

19Brendan81

Member
Mar 6, 2005
153
0
The Kips Valve is Stuck Wide open, I have thoroughly read the extremely useful info on the Justkdx site, however the section on KIPS valve maintenance applies only to 95 and on bikes. Most of the postings here seem to be for similar bikes. Has anyone out there done this job on a 89-94 model bike before? Do I need to remove the Cylinder or just the Head? How do I un-seize the valves, gentle persuasion with a hammer and screwdriver?
 

19Brendan81

Member
Mar 6, 2005
153
0
Thanks John, those scans should help me a lot. I pulled the cylinder off, and there was NO valves in there!!! Seriously, up top there were a couple of "gears" that were so chewed out they resembled cylinderical soilid steel. :yikes: I bought everything new for it, except the main valve....I cant figure out how to get the main valve out??? I have pulled off the cover and I can spin it by hand from the front, but how does it come out? Should it just pull straight out? I am worried I will never get this KIPS jigsaw back together.

I have a terrible feeling that this KIPS set has let go in a big way, resulting in the need for a top end rebuild...hence why the bike came with a reciept for a newly done rebuild only months before I bought it. The previous owner musnt have liked the idea of spending hundreds on the KIPS, so just had it thrown back together and then flogged it off to me. If I had attmepted a hill climb on it I wouldnt have bought it, but test riding it on the roads it was fine cos there was no load on the bike. :(
 

andrew

Member
Aug 7, 1999
278
0
you've been ripped off mate; go back and give the prick a whippin'. Or sabotage his new bike, or car, or ANYTHING...root his missus maybe ! The arsehole !
 

bradf

Member
Jan 26, 2004
59
0
Andrew! :aj:
The seller knew what he was doing to you.
Sometimes ya just gotta open a can of Whup-ass!
 

RuffTrane

Member
Jun 30, 2003
18
0
Hi,
I just went through this over the last couple of weeks with my 1990 kdx 200. I found it easier to take out the head and the cylinder to clean. I used oven cleaner to get the carbon off but I was extremely careful to only leave it on for 10-15 mins as it eats aluminum. Rinsing with warm water and soap after 15 mins is essential. Look up KIPS cleaning on this forum. It has a wealth of information.
To take out the main exhast valve I used a small pry bar or crow bar and VERY SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY pryed the main exhast valve off to where the groove on the valve met the edge of the cylinder. Hook the groove of the pry bar on the small knob on the main exhast valve. It will take a bit of force but it will come out (you definately can't do it by hand if it's sticky in there). Mine was gummed up with carbon. I think Kawasaki must use a puller of some kind but the pry bar worked fine. Make sure you follow the instructions in the manual so that the gears come out properly. For example. You have to pull the main rod out as far as it will go etc....Also , when cleaning make sure you get all of the carbon out of holes, especially where the main rod slides through. I had so much carbon in there it wouldn't move. I also had aluminum gear teeth missing. So I had the low end bog like you. I'll be taking it out this weekend for a diagnostic. Hopefully the new LH exhaust gear and cleaning worked. If you don't have a manual let me know and I'll go and look up the steps for you. The manual covers '89-94 kdx 200s. Installation is tricky without the manual.... Hope this info helps you....
 
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19Brendan81

Member
Mar 6, 2005
153
0
Thanks for all the good help and advice on this post :cool: The bike is back together, the KIPS job wasnt as bad as I had first thought. I gently pryed the main valve out with a pinch bar, it didnt even resist. It was in top condition too, the left and right ones were the missing ones.

The bike is back together now, and the power band is much better. Low end torque is still a problem, however the bike is well out of tune (seems the last owner was doing all sorts of desperate things to try give it more low end). I am currently modding the stock pipe as per the tech tips on the home page, and will tune the bike for it. I am hoping this will make a big difference.
 
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