Check out CDave's site for his 'needle decoder' section.
The taper increases as the letters go up:
- A=1'00" (they list them in minutes/seconds for some reason) or 1º
- B=1'15" or 1.25º
- C=1'34" or 1.5º
- D=1'45" or 1.75º
- etc.
It's important to keep in mind that as the angle increases, the point at which the taper start drops on the needle....your straight diameter stays straight longer (for the same L1 needle).
That's because the diameter used to determine L1 is 2.515mm (the 'magic' number),
not the place on the needle the taper
starts!
Capiche?
Get that relationship, and a whole lot of needle FM becomes clear!
BTW..thanks for working on your buddy's bike. You must be a good buddy.
......you didn't BUY the thing for him, too, did you? That might be a bit kinky or something.
NOT THAT THERE'S ANYTHING WRONG WITH THAT!
;)