Improve Turning

2strok4fun · Jan 6, 2003

After riding with another .netter (Placelast), and swaping rides (98RMX) I noticed how much better the RMX cut turns. I love the motor on my lightly moded 250e but would like to Improve the handling.

Including tires, technique, suspension, parts,what are your findings on making this animal not push so much?

I have Applied tripple clamps, Scotts damper, and new ish M12 front. Ride everything SoCal has to offer.

Thanx for info
Chris

agitt73 · Jan 6, 2003

raise the forks up in the clamps

placelast · Jan 6, 2003

Originally posted by agitt73
raise the forks up in the clamps

They are already as high as they will go. Perhaps you can find womone who can machine flush fork caps, giving you an extra 1/4-3/8". Watch that tire rub, tho.

Try this: less or bare minimum sag in the rear, more in the front (as you can tolerate).

SX tank/seat (easier to scoot forward). Heck, we rarely ride long, mongo loops.

1/2 tacky seat cover (easier to stay forward). Good excuse for new graphics.

Assuming you cannot get 18 or 16mm offset clamps for your year, replace bike with newer E/XC that can. Now that's a difficult one to accept as it has an enduro motor of doom, perfect delivery.

I've heard from someone here - and this goes against my thinking: add chain link to lengthen wheelbase, which would effectively put more weight on front for easier turning. Ok: makes sense but practical or enough to feel a difference?

(I used to shorten my wheel bases to get mine (Yamahas and a Can Am) to turn. Didn't change much, but worth a try. After owning three front-end pushers (suffering layovers), I determined, making it a point, to only buy bikes known for their turning, with the understanding it ment sacrificing stability.)

Thing is, doing so (lengthening the wheelbase) will not change the rake nor trail, which is the proper way to find the improvement in turning. And this would make the bike effectively a longer "arrow", less likely to turn? Don't know, but it is an inexpensive experiment.

Fred T · Jan 7, 2003

I don't know if this will help you or not but adjusting the rebound on the forks may get it to stick a little better. Less rebound will get the tire to tuck under in the turns a little more. Check fork preload and static sag too.

lawman · Jan 7, 2003

the 18mm clamp will fit this bike. 1st i'd set the sag in the rear, minimal sag will make a big difference.

placelast · Jan 7, 2003

Originally posted by lawman
the 18mm clamp will fit this bike. 1st i'd set the sag in the rear, minimal sag will make a big difference.

Will they? Thing is his '98s are conventionals (45mm?) and the 18mm offset clamps (Emig, for example) are for the '00-'02 WP USDs; different tube diameters.

greeneb · Jan 7, 2003

Just FYI .... 98 250E has the 50mm WP forks.

Eric

placelast · Jan 7, 2003

Ah, yes - the same ones as on the Jackpiner LE. They are conventional, though - diff. diameter than the USDs.

And now for a completely new approach: Drew Smith (WER fame) would receive the PEs from Suzuki (1978?), take a hack saw to the head stay, and reweld it in a steeper fashion so they turned better. The Zook reps. from Japan would gasp when watching him do the mod.

2strok4fun · Jan 8, 2003

Originally posted by placelast
Ah, yes - the same ones as on the Jackpiner LE. They are conventional, though - diff. diameter than the USDs.

And now for a completely new approach: Drew Smith (WER fame) would receive the PEs from Suzuki (1978?), take a hack saw to the head stay, and reweld it in a steeper fashion so they turned better. The Zook reps. from Japan would gasp when watching him do the mod.

Ahh dont think the idea hasnt crossed my mind. :debil:

As for getting a newer or different mount, I prefer to stay married :silly:
I could dump unjustified money into this ride easier than gettin a different one.

I have a *little* left to reduce the sag and still be in spec. Except for clickers I havent done anything to the forks, not even sag, I may need info/help in the front end sag dept set up.

(edit) I just checked my notes I still have 3/8 left to reduce my sag (shock) and still be between the recomended 90 to 105 mm.

Like Placelast said, the forks are maxed now. In undampened form and the forks flush it would get wobly at speed, Scotts took care of that.

I will also get the seat cover, as I noticed I had to try to hang on as throttle is applied to try and stay forward, that made steering difficult.

placelast · Jan 8, 2003

You may not have noticed but the KX/KDX hybrid had USD clamps with custom ring-pacers to fit the 45mm conventionals. So you could do the same: have ring-spacers made to fill in the diff. between your 50mm fork tubes and new 18mm offset clamps (if the stem/bearings are , sell yours (or see if Applied with take them in trade) to fund the new purchase.

Emig '00-'02 18mm offset clamps w/bar mounts run $365 retail; I do not know what dealer pricing is.

lawman · Jan 8, 2003

hey, you guys are right, i forgot that he'd have the conventional fork. sorry!

trailblazer · Jan 8, 2003

The 50mm fork OEM setup already comes with 14mm offset clamps! IF you have raised the forks up as high as possible in the clamps; minimized the rear sag to 30mm or so, moved the rear wheel forward with shortened chain; and, reduced rebound dampening on the front, it doesn't get much better. The front tire can also be changed to a lower provile (height) to improve turning, s12 michelin for example.

2strok4fun · Jan 8, 2003

Thanx guys-

all the info has been helpful. I will do the easy things first, sag, seat cover.

I am confused on the rebound, Reduce rebound? I would think adding rebound will help the forks stay lower. But I must admit to being challenged in the suspension setup dept.

The shop that mounted my front tire (M12) mounted it backwards. I cant see a diference in tread pattern, but John mentioned it might be how the cords are run. Do you think this could have any impact?

WoodsRider · Jan 8, 2003

By reducing rebound (turning the clicker in) you are slowing it down. This keeps the front end lower in the stroke. Reduce rebound until the front end starts packing then back off one click.

2strok4fun · Jan 8, 2003

By reducing rebound (turning the clicker in) you are slowing it down. This keeps the front end lower in the stroke. Reduce rebound until the front end starts packing then back off one click.

OK, that is what I thought.

jboomer · Jan 8, 2003

In this months copy of DirtRi***, they say McGrath used 22mm offset triple clamps on his KTM.

Guaryzzzpode · Jan 13, 2003

This is really stupid, but I've gotten used to it (I have the same bike, excepts it's a 300). On sharp turns, I make them constantly applying the front brake. You have to be very carefull so the front tire doesn't slip.

2strok4fun · Jan 13, 2003

Guaryzzpode-

I have tried that technique and it works reasonably well where traction is good, but where there was loose dirt on dry hardpack, it was no help.

I really think I need to concentrate on learning how to set up the front forks.

Improve Turning

2strok4fun

agitt73

placelast

Fred T

lawman

placelast

greeneb

placelast

2strok4fun

placelast

lawman

trailblazer

2strok4fun

WoodsRider

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2strok4fun

jboomer

Guaryzzzpode

2strok4fun

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Improve Turning

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