My new-to-me 1990 KDX-200 needs 2-3 spokes replaced in the rear wheel. Many of the spokes are siezed but still tight. 2 are broken with only the nipple left in the rim. I'm concerned that with the age of the wheel (15 years) and my weight (250 with gear) that other spokes are going to become loose or break as I learn to ride the bike faster. Should I replace them 1 at a time or just plan to completely respoke the rear soon? Would the rim be damaged if I rode once or twice with the 2 missing spokes? It would be slower trail riding.
KDX spoke replacement
- Thread starter 1911user
- Start date
Ron Ayers is the way to go. I've had to replace lots of spokes on my rear wheel.
spokes - 2.88
nipples - 1.47
That's cheap for individual spokes. I've never been able to find a replacement "set" for a KDX. If anyone has, I'd be interested.
If you do ride with missing or loose spokes, your going to create problems with your good spokes. Bad spokes are an epidemic.
spokes - 2.88
nipples - 1.47
That's cheap for individual spokes. I've never been able to find a replacement "set" for a KDX. If anyone has, I'd be interested.
If you do ride with missing or loose spokes, your going to create problems with your good spokes. Bad spokes are an epidemic.
You can find a "replacement set" of spokes from Buchanon or Excel. I just re-laced my rear wheel with a set from Excel- however, the Excel nipples are larger diameter, and the rim must be drilled to accomodate the spokes. Great kit, though- complete with wrench.
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- #6
speaking of buchanan, I just ordered a replacement spoke set for the rear wheel. It seems I shouldn't ride this weekend anyway. They were $59 plus $7 ground UPS. I called them and the KX125-500 spokes are the same as KDX. KX spokes are listed on their website, KDX isn't
http://www.buchananspokes.com/KawKXspokes.htm
http://www.buchananspokes.com/KawKXspokes.htm
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1911user said:speaking of buchanan, I just order a replacement spoke set for the rear wheel. It seems I shouldn't ride this weekend anyway. They were $59 plus $7 ground UPS. I called them and the KX125-500 spokes are the same as KDX. KX spokes are listed on their website, KDX isn't
http://www.buchananspokes.com/KawKXspokes.htm
I noticed that the part #s are different on the KDXs vs. the KXs. Are you sure they are the same? Let me know, I won't to get a set too.
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- #12
I'll report on the set from Buchanan when it arrives next week.
An earlier post asked about labor, yes I'll do the spoke replacement myself. I plan to replace one at a time although I may not bring them up to final tension until all have been replaced. I laced a few bicycle wheels 15-20 years ago; I'd rather not start with any empty hub and rim. BTDT
I'm not sure what to put on the spoke threads so it doesn't corrode with the nipple. suggestions? These nipples will be cad-plated steel compared to the stock aluminum ones. If the rim is aluminum, are there any special precautions to prevent corrosion with the steel nipples? I don't power wash after riding, but with the local red clay, I do wash it off with a garden hose.
An earlier post asked about labor, yes I'll do the spoke replacement myself. I plan to replace one at a time although I may not bring them up to final tension until all have been replaced. I laced a few bicycle wheels 15-20 years ago; I'd rather not start with any empty hub and rim. BTDT
I'm not sure what to put on the spoke threads so it doesn't corrode with the nipple. suggestions? These nipples will be cad-plated steel compared to the stock aluminum ones. If the rim is aluminum, are there any special precautions to prevent corrosion with the steel nipples? I don't power wash after riding, but with the local red clay, I do wash it off with a garden hose.
Nice Guy Eddie
Uhhh...
- Jun 30, 2004
- 140
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you can use spoke prep (any good bike shop)... or just plumbers pipe thread compund... <---- cheaper... it is a lubricant so that your threads will glide rather than pop from spot to spot as you tighten (I highly recommend using something).... it also serves to help avoid corrosion
i just laced up a wheel on my bike today in 3 hours. Trued it too. i had to buy a new excel rim for it because it got torn up from riding with loose and missing spokes. about 10 holes turned into slots. i bought a new set of excel spokes to go with it. just got the spokes today and figured it would take a long time to do and that it would be a horrific experience. actually it wasnt that bad. For not working with and sort of jig and being my first time lacing a wheel ever and having the wheel within a millimeter side to side and up and down i dont think i did to bad.
Nice Guy Eddie
Uhhh...
- Jun 30, 2004
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DEFINATELY check them often at first... almost invariably one or two will loosen... my rule of thumb is, if the tire has more wobble than the rim, you're good to go
JasonWho said:Hi. Where did you find the Excel set? Do you know if Excel or Buchanan have web sites? I JUST got through taking the front tire/tube/rim strip off a spare wheel I had from a 1990 KDX200, and it had about 37 rusty nipples.
Thanks!
Jason, I got mine form Ed's Honda South Boston, VA. Talk to Darrin. Ask him about the WERA discount (Darrin's a roadracer). I think I paid $70 bucks for the rear set.
JasonWho said:Please do report on how you like the new spokes. I just took my main set of wheels apart today, and almost all the nipples are rusty. I am trying to weigh my options and hear other peoples' opinions and expereinces.
Thanks.
It was easier for me to replace them a couple at a time, and I used a bolt-cutter to remove the old spokes. Use anti-sieze compound on your new ones and you won't have this problem again. Good luck.
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- #20
Racer X said:It was easier for me to replace them a couple at a time, and I used a bolt-cutter to remove the old spokes. Use anti-sieze compound on your new ones and you won't have this problem again. Good luck.
How much tension did you put on the replacement spokes as you substituted them for the old ones?
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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I only sped red the thread...so if this is a duplication of something already said just ignore it.
This is regarding the 'H' model kdx...and 18" wheel.
Excel makes a set of spokes. Sort of. The set SAYS on the label that it is for the 'H' model kdx, but the nipples are the wrong size and the spoke angle is wrong.
You could drill your wheel to accept the new nipple size (8.5mm I think it is?...maybe 8). That was the rec of a local bike shop. I didn't care for that idea a whole lot. The nipples are nice, though! Come with a neat wrench to turn the splined things.
The angle part would be fine if you relaced the whole wheel..the wheel would set up to the new angle. BUT, if you are only replacing one or two they (the Excel spokes) won't seat quite right in the hub.
The oem nips do fit on the Excel spokes.
You can soak your seized spoke/nip sets in WD40 (spray liberally, let set overnight). Then, with a propane torch you will likely get them loosened up. I lost (broke) only one that way and that was because it didn't have enough WD on it. I could tell cuz it did NOT boil out of the joint when I heated it. Tried to loosen it anyway and the spoke broke.
Oh..you will have to hold the spoke with something (vise grips work) even with heat and an WD soak. I was concerned about damaging the spokes, but I found that if the grips were not quite tight enough (spoke slipped) the damage done to the spoke when it slipped was nothing. Didn't leave a mark on it.
Those spokes are tough!
re: one at a time.
Good luck. I did mine one at a time, 180º apart and using an out/in sequence. I still ended up with a rim that was further out (radial AND axial) that I started with. It's not out of spec, but it IS further out than it was.
Crappers.
I used a torque wrench to set them, in a couple of in/lb increments, using the 'skip 5' method.
I can't imagine starting with a loose wheel. Heck...maybe it would be easier?
I kinda doubt it, though.
DO put them back in with neverseize or somesuch.
Oh...I told myself I would never forget this....but I did. Keep in mind that you can put in a pair of spokes only one way! But...I don't recall if you can put the INside in after the OUTside is already in or vice versa. Make sure you get that figured out, else you will be :bang: your head when you (if you do this) get to putting in the INside spokes after all the OUTsides are done...and the dang things won't FIT!
You will have to take all of the spokes you just put in out again!
Bummer!
Good luck!
This is regarding the 'H' model kdx...and 18" wheel.
Excel makes a set of spokes. Sort of. The set SAYS on the label that it is for the 'H' model kdx, but the nipples are the wrong size and the spoke angle is wrong.
You could drill your wheel to accept the new nipple size (8.5mm I think it is?...maybe 8). That was the rec of a local bike shop. I didn't care for that idea a whole lot. The nipples are nice, though! Come with a neat wrench to turn the splined things.
The angle part would be fine if you relaced the whole wheel..the wheel would set up to the new angle. BUT, if you are only replacing one or two they (the Excel spokes) won't seat quite right in the hub.
The oem nips do fit on the Excel spokes.
You can soak your seized spoke/nip sets in WD40 (spray liberally, let set overnight). Then, with a propane torch you will likely get them loosened up. I lost (broke) only one that way and that was because it didn't have enough WD on it. I could tell cuz it did NOT boil out of the joint when I heated it. Tried to loosen it anyway and the spoke broke.
Oh..you will have to hold the spoke with something (vise grips work) even with heat and an WD soak. I was concerned about damaging the spokes, but I found that if the grips were not quite tight enough (spoke slipped) the damage done to the spoke when it slipped was nothing. Didn't leave a mark on it.
Those spokes are tough!
re: one at a time.
Good luck. I did mine one at a time, 180º apart and using an out/in sequence. I still ended up with a rim that was further out (radial AND axial) that I started with. It's not out of spec, but it IS further out than it was.
Crappers.
I used a torque wrench to set them, in a couple of in/lb increments, using the 'skip 5' method.
I can't imagine starting with a loose wheel. Heck...maybe it would be easier?
I kinda doubt it, though.
DO put them back in with neverseize or somesuch.
Oh...I told myself I would never forget this....but I did. Keep in mind that you can put in a pair of spokes only one way! But...I don't recall if you can put the INside in after the OUTside is already in or vice versa. Make sure you get that figured out, else you will be :bang: your head when you (if you do this) get to putting in the INside spokes after all the OUTsides are done...and the dang things won't FIT!
You will have to take all of the spokes you just put in out again!
Bummer!
Good luck!
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
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Great! I hadn't gone back to that thread to see if it ever got fixed or not!!
Thanks Mr. Wibbens.
Thanks Mr. Wibbens.
1911user said:How much tension did you put on the replacement spokes as you substituted them for the old ones?
As a hack mechanic ;) I don't have that cool spoke torque wrench set, but I do have a good ear from being a hack musician. :) Therefore, I tapped the spokes with the wrench to get more or less the same tone (like the guitar string principle) and then did the final tightening/loosening as I trued the wheel. It's not perfect by any means, but it's okay for me. Good luck.
Oh, and everything cnyn crvr says is true- the angle is a little bit different, but wasn't a factor for me since I replaced every spoke. I didn't mind drilling my rim because it looked awful to begin with. What was I gonna do? Mess it up more??? :laugh:
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