kick kick kick kick kick kick kick kick kick

mnnthbx

Member
Apr 1, 2003
301
0
I really had my jetting spot on mid-summer, as the temps started hitting consistantly in the 60's, I went up a size on the main. Now that the weather is even colder, I see the bike is getting harder to start. This weekend, early in the morning, my normal 1-3 kicker took 25ish to start cold. It always starts hot on the first kick. It also felt very "non pipey" until the afternoon temps warmed up a bit, plus the leaner air set in as I gained 1500+ ft. of elevation, at which point it ripped.

Can I get it to start easier by closing the air screw a bit (I have yet to try it).

Perhaps a clip position change?

It never gets a lean bog based on throttle input. Just all that kicking.....wheu
 

sick 96 250

Damn Yankees
Member
Jul 16, 2004
1,207
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need to go up on your pilot jet, just did to my bike because it was getting colder and getting a lot harder to start. Now it start 2nd or 3rd kick
 

BRYDEN1

Member
Sep 22, 2003
97
0
Make sure your still safe with your main before doing anything else.
If your happy with your jetting and the pilot jet is right according to air screw position, try a different cold starting drill. Throttle closed, choke on, push the kill switch and kick it 2-3times then let go of the kill switch and give it a kick. This usually works for me when the temp gets cold or the bike cools off while stopped on a ride. Hope this works for you :cool:
 

sick 96 250

Damn Yankees
Member
Jul 16, 2004
1,207
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if you close the air screw a bit and it starts easier that is richening up your jets. But its better to change your pilot jet up a few sizes than have to turn your air screw in a lot. Your air screw should be set at 1 1/2 turns out.
 

Rhodester

Member
May 17, 2003
549
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I would be hesitant to change the needle position. I think you're right on with the main jet changes and turning in the air screw. You may not need to change the pilot if you're still a little out from full in on the air screw. You should be able to tell if you're too lean on the pilot when the engine is warm. It'll start to idle way up (high RPMs) if its way lean. If the idle is good (when warm) and you still have a little adjustability to go richer with the screw then you're probably in the ball park pilot-wise. That's how I'd play it anyway if I was on the edge of my minimum temperature range that I'd be riding in. If I'd be riding in even colder weather then I might go up 1 size on the pilot.
 

mnnthbx

Member
Apr 1, 2003
301
0
Thanks guys. I does idle higher, but not excessive. The AS is 1.25 out I'll try it in the .75 range.
 

Rhodester

Member
May 17, 2003
549
0
If you get anymore in than 1/2 turn out from all the way in on the air screw you might want to go ahead and jump up 1 size on the pilot.
 

CaptainObvious

Formally known as RV6Junkie
Damn Yankees
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jan 8, 2000
3,331
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Rings
Reeds

Check 'em
 

mnnthbx

Member
Apr 1, 2003
301
0
It's not the ring or reeds. It's very weather related. I'm sure I'll get it sorted out with the air screw, or the pilot if the air screw goes out of its effective range.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
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re: 'Your air screw should be set at 1 1/2 turns out'

In a word......no.

It should be where it should be.

It is set using throttle response as a guide...it is not set to some arbitrary number.

mnnt: I don't recall if you have an RB-modified carb or not. If so, the common knowledge of where to set the AS and how far out means you need a bigger pilot is all by the way....it doesn't apply.
 

mnnthbx

Member
Apr 1, 2003
301
0
No RB. I will make the first ride with the bigger pilot (45) Sat. morning, in what looks to be the exact same temps as last week. Mid 30's. I'll follow up afterwards. Thanks for the help.
 

mnnthbx

Member
Apr 1, 2003
301
0
Well, I spent some time on the fatter pilot. It did indeed start easier. It also ran well for the most part. Performance wise nearly the same either way. The larger pilot loaded up a bit though, all day. I'll be going back to the ill-starting pilot, and richening the air screw a bit to try to split the difference. Thanks for all your help on this thread.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
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Well, th'ar 'ya go.

You've found that easy choke/cold starting doesn't necessarily translate to running well the other 99% of the time you're actually riding your bike.

Certainly a bit of hassle (if that what turning the airscrew in 1/2 a trun or so is) on a choke/cold start is well worth it if you don't have to deal with other performance diminuations (I think I just made that word up...;) ) the rest of your ride day.

Something to consider...RB makes a finger adjustable air screw for the PWK. It makes adjustment of the air screw real easy. Well worth the $20 (I think...including postage even!) he charges for it.

I've lost probably 1/2 dz. screwdrivers at least while riding (and crashing). I much prefer using my fingers! I have yet to lose THEM while riding. Well...the feeling of them maybe..but they're still there.

re: load up.

It isn't necessary to deal with any of that. The PWK can be tuned such that your bike never has another 4-stroke experience. OK..maybe a bit after a choke/cold start...but if I warm my bike up right...I don't get any of the blubbering 4-stroke goober even then.

..and I have to remember to change my spark plug maybe once a year..and then just on GP.

..you might consider trying a 40....
 
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