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Message: [QUOTE="Canadian Dave, post: 162294, member: 16102"] Poojz youâ€™d be better off changing your gearing to either the stock 47 tooth rear sprocket and a 12 tooth from stock or the stock 13 tooth front sprocket, 50 tooth rear sprocket and a 110 link chain. You can also achieve more MX like response from a simple jetting change. The stock B taper needle produces a nice strong/torque pull through mid throttle setting with a very controllable hit. Going to a C taper will cost you some of that grunt in trade for better, more immediate throttle response. There has been plenty of discussion on this subject over the past month on this forum, take advantage of others hard work. Iâ€™ve tried a number of combinations in the past and more recently Acutemp (Dan) has been putting in some considerable time. A CEK jet needle in the #3 (mid) clip position with a 45 pilot, the stock #5 slide and a 152/155 main jet should be close, it worked well for both of us. Dan also reports good results with a CCJ in the in the #1 clip position (top) a 45 pilot and a 152/155 main. Before spending your hard earned money adapting a lighter flywheel Iâ€™d pick up a couple needles from Sudco at $5 each and play a little. Be sure to do a plug reading at WOT to insure you arenâ€™t running lean on the main jet any time you are fine tuning your jetting. You can find instructions on the JustKDX home page. Follow the link below. Iâ€™d think with the proper jetting and more aggressive gearing youâ€™ll want to leave th3e flywheel weight alone or perhaps add some more. While your buddies are searching for traction youâ€™ll be putting power to the ground. Let us know how it worked out. Kawierider give Fredette Racing Products a call. Jeff should be able to repair your flywheel or direct you to someone who can. It will certainly be much cheaper than a new one. Tell'm the guys from JustKDX sent ya. David [/QUOTE]

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