Mushy front brake on KX 125?

S

Stab

Member

Sep 29, 2001

73

0

• Mar 6, 2002

• #1

What's causing the mushy front brake on a '00 KX 125?
We have blead the system several times and have installed new brake pads.
The lever is just mushy and can be pulled all the way to the grip. It feels like air, but we have blead this thing to death!

The brakes seem to be working ok, just not like they should, nor like the other bikes we have.

Any help here would be appriciated!!

Thanks!:confused:

 

MikeT

~SPONSOR~

Jan 17, 2001

4,112

11

• Mar 6, 2002

• #2

Did you pump it up and crack the bolt at the master cylinder? That might be where your air is.

 

G

gto-17

Member

Aug 31, 2000

30

0

• Mar 6, 2002

• #3

Originally posted by Stab
What's causing the mushy front brake on a '00 KX 125?
We have blead the system several times and have installed new brake pads.
The lever is just mushy and can be pulled all the way to the grip. It feels like air, but we have blead this thing to death!

The brakes seem to be working ok, just not like they should, nor like the other bikes we have.

Any help here would be appriciated!!

Thanks!:confused:

Click to expand...

:mad: KX Brakes I've had the same problems, I got fed up with the master cylinder and bought a Honda replacement :cool: WOW what a difference :D

I could never get the :whiner: mushy feel out the orignal master cylinder, I tried everything.

 

D

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member

May 3, 2000

5,349

3

• Mar 6, 2002

• #4

On one of my Kawasakis, the only way to get rid of the air was to take the hose/caliper/master cylinder off the bike and hang it straight on a wall for a few days, tapping the line a few times to get the bubbles to break loose. After dozens of times bleeding the conventional way, taking it off the bike worked perfectly.

 

C

Coach in ND

Member

Mar 19, 2001

212

0

• Mar 6, 2002

• #5

Replace the stock rubber brake line with a braided Fastline brand brake line. It will end all you problems.


Coach

 

KawieKX125

~SPONSOR~

Oct 9, 2000

948

0

• Mar 7, 2002

• #6

I don't understadn all you people. Every KX125 that I have had has had superb brakes IMO. They may be a bit mushy, but I like the modulation that the mushiness provides. I have trouble riding Hondas or any bike with great brakes for that reason, the brakes are like a light switch for me. Use some DOT 4 brake fluid and bledd them perfectly and they should be fine. EBC pads also help a bunch.

 

singletracker500

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Jul 24, 1999

484

0

• Mar 7, 2002

• #7

Check to see if your rotor is warped. If it is, it'll pull your pads farther apart causing a mushy feeling at the lever.

 

S

Stab

Member

Sep 29, 2001

73

0

• Mar 8, 2002

• Thread starter
• #8

Thanks!

I'll try some of the tips and get back to you all.

 

D

dell30rb

Uhhh...

Dec 2, 2001

1,512

0

• Mar 8, 2002

• #9

read mxtuner's article on brakes. he mentions the rotor thing and how to fix it

 

R

RMXkid

Member

Jul 13, 2001

109

0

• Mar 9, 2002

• #10

make sure you bleed the master cylinder first. then go down to and bleed the caliper.

 

S

Stab

Member

Sep 29, 2001

73

0

• Mar 9, 2002

• Thread starter
• #11

MC First?

What's the best way to bleed the master cylinder first?

 

M

motometal

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Sep 3, 2001

2,682

3

• Mar 10, 2002

• #12

take the mc off of the hanlebars, and hang it in such a way that the highest point IS the mc. Then, carefully push the piston (behind the brake pad) all the way back into the caliper. This should force any trapped air up into the mc.

also, when I fill the mc, i put enough in so that it will overflow a bit when I put the cap/bladder on. wrap a rag around it. this way, there isn't any air that can enter the system in case of a tip-over.

 

S

Stab

Member

Sep 29, 2001

73

0

• Mar 11, 2002

• Thread starter
• #13

Thanks!

Stab

 

M

moto bird

Member

Feb 25, 2002

14

0

• Mar 13, 2002

• #14

replace your line with a ride engineering line and clamp. its braided steel and runs directly to the caliper. huge difference.

check it out at www.ride-engineering.com