my leaky forks
- Thread starter kdx357
- Start date
I just finished doing the seals on my '90 kdx 200. It wasnt hard but you will need to buy or make some special tools. If you have the manual it explains the procedure.If you dont have the manual you can order one from www.buykawasaki.com,or send me a PM and i will make a copy of that section and fax it to you.Also if you do a search on fork seals you will find that the recomended fork oil is mobil1 atf . I made my own tools for the job out of stuff from home depot, so if you want to know how I made them send me a msg
89-93 kdx fork tools
Ok, I tried to upload some photos but the file size was to big.I will try to explain how I made The tools I used to take apart & put back together my '90 forks. 1st tool :cylinder unit holder,I used a Craftsman 1 1/8 socket with an o.d. of 1 1/2". Centered on top of the socket( where you connect the ratchet) I drew a 1 1/8 hex. I then used a bench grinder to taper the hex down the side of the socket about 5/8" If you look at the adapter in the manual you will get the idea. Page 11-4. 2nd tool :seal driver . Iwent to home depot and bought a 1 1/2 " pvc coupler used to join 2 pieces of pipe together.On one end I ground down about 1/8" ,1 1/2 " down the side so that this peice will fit inside the outer fork tube . I then cut a peice of 2" pvc about 15" long an taped it to the coupler to extend it above the inner fork tube. The next tool you need is a 14mm allen wrench for the bottom of the fork. I wasnt able to find one so I took my 14mm socket to the hardware store and found What looks like a long nut. It fit inside of the socket and extended beyond the walls so you could then use it like an allen wrench.I hope this makes sense a Picture would sure help but I dont know how to upload them.
Ok, I tried to upload some photos but the file size was to big.I will try to explain how I made The tools I used to take apart & put back together my '90 forks. 1st tool :cylinder unit holder,I used a Craftsman 1 1/8 socket with an o.d. of 1 1/2". Centered on top of the socket( where you connect the ratchet) I drew a 1 1/8 hex. I then used a bench grinder to taper the hex down the side of the socket about 5/8" If you look at the adapter in the manual you will get the idea. Page 11-4. 2nd tool :seal driver . Iwent to home depot and bought a 1 1/2 " pvc coupler used to join 2 pieces of pipe together.On one end I ground down about 1/8" ,1 1/2 " down the side so that this peice will fit inside the outer fork tube . I then cut a peice of 2" pvc about 15" long an taped it to the coupler to extend it above the inner fork tube. The next tool you need is a 14mm allen wrench for the bottom of the fork. I wasnt able to find one so I took my 14mm socket to the hardware store and found What looks like a long nut. It fit inside of the socket and extended beyond the walls so you could then use it like an allen wrench.I hope this makes sense a Picture would sure help but I dont know how to upload them.
David Trustrum
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 25, 2001
- 1,396
- 0
Further to the issue as the bushes get a bit worn they will leak easier & repeatedly fail. My ‘91 forks were a trifle sloppy so I shimmed them out using a special high-tech adhesive coated plastic shimstock available by the roll.
Only a small amount is needed, about ¾ of an inch cut to fit under the bearing on the male part that the slider (bottom) slides on. It is retained so can’t get out & have modded a couple of old forks quite satisfactorily.
Only a small amount is needed, about ¾ of an inch cut to fit under the bearing on the male part that the slider (bottom) slides on. It is retained so can’t get out & have modded a couple of old forks quite satisfactorily.
I guess I wasn't too careful about it...he he! ;)
For the inner tube holder, or whatever it is called (the thing that looks like a big socket when the caps/springs removed) I just rammed a long file in there. I then ramed a long L-shaped tire iron in there, so that it was a tight fit. I was so damn desparate and pissed off I just randomly used those things.
I also used a long nut that fit the bottom allen, and ripped it out with an impact wrech. That worked good, and I have had no problems since about 6 months ago, when I did all of this! :confused:
For the inner tube holder, or whatever it is called (the thing that looks like a big socket when the caps/springs removed) I just rammed a long file in there. I then ramed a long L-shaped tire iron in there, so that it was a tight fit. I was so damn desparate and pissed off I just randomly used those things.
I also used a long nut that fit the bottom allen, and ripped it out with an impact wrech. That worked good, and I have had no problems since about 6 months ago, when I did all of this! :confused:
