My proposed Base and Midvalve specs

The following are the stacks that I intend to build tomorrow. Any comments?
02 200 exc, .40 spring rate, ATF with 130mm airchamber, 180 lbs, used to be fast, will be again with ride time, still aggresive, sandy whoops and tree roots in single track. But also used for Moto-X.

Base Valve

14x.1
24x.1
21x.1
18x.1
16x.1
14x.1
12x.1
9x.2
18x.25

You will notice the bleed shim on top. I'm wondering if this may also be a good idea on top of the midvalve?

Midvalve
Perhaps a 20x.1 mm bleed shim on top?
24x.1
24x.1
21x.1
18x.1
15x.1
11x.1
11x.1
15x.1
20x.1
24x.25

Float to be determined but want about 1 mm and an adjustment may need to be made to midvalve stack to suit.
Perhaps change the 21x.1 for a 20x.1 and remove the 18x.1 for less HSC.
Perhaps an extra shim in the rebound stack would also be a good idea seeing as the rebound is best set at 12 clicks in for me but now running a higher spring rate.

Thanks Deansfastway, sounds like sound advice. What are your thoughts on a bleed shim on the midvalve?
Below are the stock stacks

BV
24x.1
22x.1
20x.1
18x.1
16x.1
14x.1
9x.20
18x.25

Midvalve
4x24x.1
1.5 mm float.

You can probably work out I am trying to loose the harshness on the tree roots and square edges, just the usuall WP problems. The stock setup feels soft on whoops for me but I'm upping the spring rate from .38 to .40 along with these changes.
Cheers.

Thanks, all good advice. I've left the bleed shim out of the midvalve and my final float is .85 and removed the 18 mm shim so I'll try that and see how it feels. I've been wondering about adding more preload but I don't think I would want to add much more than the std 10mm spacer. Perhaps just another 3mm for a start. The forks do ride low in the stroke with my weight but with upping the rate from .38 to .40 and increasing the midvalve hopefully this will be closer to what is ideal. One thing that will be interesting will be the effect on steering, however I believe by increasing the rebound shim stack slightly that may have improved some. I didn't have an 18mm shim to place in rebound stack but I had a spare 16 so I used that instead.
I find this stuff interesting but time consuming so hopefully I will be able to fine tune with the base valve.
Thanks for your input.

Well after testing yesterday I quickly came to the conclusion that my valving was too stiff. I like the midvalve changes that have me sitter higher in the stroke and the bike is much much better through the whoops. Deflection is down on roots but still present to some degree, but much better here also. My compression clickers are full out and rebound clickers in 5 clicks. I am not using the last 50 mm of travel so want to decrease the high speed damping on the base valve. I want to try lightening the base valve by removing the 14 mm bleed (think it just adds to HSC with little other benefit in my case) and also switch the 16 out for a 15 and remove the 14 and place it under the clamp shim. Will these changes help to regain that last 50 mm travel or do I need to also lighten the midvalve?
New base valve stack.
24x1
21x1
18x1
15x1
12x1
9x.2
14x1
18x2.5

Chouca, the above stack you used is stiffer than what I started with. Don't forget I am now running a midvalve stack. And at this stage I don't want to confuse things with a two stage stack. Also I don't need any lighter low speed damping so removing the bleed shim will be compensated by replacing the ATF with 5 wt (lighter). Also by lightening the stack (by the removal of the 14mm at the top and another shim) I'm hoping to ligthen the HSC and bring the compression clicker back into the picture rather than running if full out.
As per the oil level, I believe you are talking about via the WP method. I use the Fabtech method. There is a 30 mm difference in levels depending on method used. Via the Fabtech method (which makes more sense to me) I have 130mm air chamber. Via the WP method I have 160 mm air chamber. WP recomends a 150mm and fabtech recomends a 120mm level. I am 10mm lower at this stage.
Drilling the cones maybe an option if further stack and oil changes do not enable full stroke. Some more info would be helpfull as to what size holes and I would think 1/2 way down cone? The cones on my bike are 50mm (the amount the forks are short of bottoming. I'm thinking the lighter oil will help here).
Deansfastway, you have hit the nail on the head about the midvalve needs to not be to light as I don't want to have to keep pulling it down to replace shims that have bent. Thats why I'm concentrating on the base valve at this point, although I am tempted to try removing one of the 11 mm shims from the midvalve. That will increase float from .85 to .95. Maybe after changing the base valve and oil this time tho.
I'm trying to workout what effect running another midvalve such as this might have?
3x24x1
19x1
14x1
11x1
11x1
15x1
20x1
24x.25

Thats added 1x24 but downsized the 20 to a 19 and the 15 to a 14. Would that be stiffer or lighter? More durable as the 24's have a little more support or would they bend further because of the 19 mm shim instead of a 20? Having a bit more idea as to the effects that changing the shim sizes has would make this a little easier. And would running only 1 x 11mm shim have any negative effects? Does the pivot (11mm)shim/s need to be as fat as .2?

I've tried everything I can think of to try but still have the harshness on braking bumps. I've tried bleed valves, all the oil grades, two stage stacks, stiffer springs (today, too stiff and bouncy) and at a loss how to get these forks working. My best settings are:

BV
24x1
12x1
21x1
18x1
14x1
10x1
9x.3
9.5x2
18x.2

MV
24x.1
20x.1
15x.1
11x.1
24x.25
1.2mm float

rebound
std

ATF at 160 mm, full travel once or twice a ride, 2 x 5mm holes drilled above the bottom bearing.
.40kg fork spring rate.
Weight 180lbs.

Going to stiffer fork rate of .42 unbalanced bike, and forks felt so terrible I packed up and came home after only a half hour.
With the .40 springs, forks feel fantastic in whoops but rubbish in braking bumps, jackhammer, but little deflection. Tried sitting on rear of seat, clickers at extremes, no change in harshness. What else can I try? All thats left is to shorten rear shock travel when I get my new rear Racetech spring. I'm at a loss as to whats wrong with these damn forks! :bash: :bash: :bash:

Good advice that I'm seriously considering after todays ride.

Thanks Deansfastway. I have the two bushing forks. Std rebound currently. I did have an extra shim in there but removed it so that the adjuster fell in the middle of the available settings. I have been able to get full travel recently without drilling the cones and don't intend to drill them now.
Terry Hay was nice enough to get in touch and discuss my settings and has given me some things to try. Some sound advice I'm sure.