Need Chain/Sprocket Advice

D

DarbySS

Member
Dec 11, 2006
23
0
I recently bought my first dirtbike. It's used, and the rear sprocket looks pretty worn and I want to replace it. This is what was stamped on the sprocket.

Renthal
4620 154U
520 51T

What does all that mean? I'm assuming the 51T is 51 teeth? I want to make sure I get the right replacement. Doesnt the size of the sprocket = difference in performance? What size should I get? I'm a beginner, rec. riding only for now.

The chain said:

D.I.D.
520 ERT

Again, what does all that mean?

Thanks
Darby
 
B

BadMotoWeazal

Member
Aug 21, 2004
31
0

51T = 51 teeth on the rear sprocket, they make 2 kinds, Steel & Aluminum. Steel last longer but are heavy & more expensive. Aluminum is light & usually cost less but doesn't last as long as the steel. Make sure to use some thread lock on the sprocket bolts when you reassemble, losing a bolt or breaking your rear hub can be costly & hurt.
520 is a standard size of the chain itself....the length of the chain will vary from motorcycle to motorcycle & will need to be cut to size for different makes of bike. Your Honda has a stock sprocket setup of 13T front & a 51T rear.
The DID ERT chain is a motocross non-o-ring chain. I ride in the woods & use a o-ring chain. The o-ring chain takes a little horsepower away & are more expensive, but they last longer for my type of riding.
So with that said, go buy a new 51T rear sprocket & a new chain & go ride.....Check your front sprocket when you remove your chain as it may need replacing too. :ride:
 
D

DarbySS

Member
Dec 11, 2006
23
0
520 is a standard size of the chain itself....the length of the chain will vary from motorcycle to motorcycle & will need to be cut to size for different makes of bike. Your Honda has a stock sprocket setup of 13T front & a 51T rear.
Click to expand...

So if I'm ordering a chain online, how do I determine what length it needs to be cut to, so I can tell them?

Or do I give them my font/rear sprocket size and they will know? Or can I cut the chain?
 
K

KX02

Member
Jan 19, 2004
781
0
The stock length chain for 13/51 gearing is 114 links. If you check Rocky Mountain ATV/MC they give all the stock lengths in their catalog.
 
7

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
Count the number of links in the chain and order that number if you are staying with the same sprockets. If you're changing sizes, just grab a 120 link chain (the longest) and have it cut to length.
 

oldguy

Always Broken
Dec 26, 1999
9,411
0
As long as you are replacing the rear sprocket and chain kick in the extra and get a new front sprocket also. For the cost it will greatly lengthen the life of the other 2 parts. once you do the replacement make sure you keep the chain adjusted properly and lubed tis will also make sure that you get the longest life out of them
 

2-Strokes 4-ever

~SPONSOR~
Feb 9, 2005
1,842
4
Missouri
I have always found steel rear sprockets to be CHEAPER than alum. And they last a long time.
 
D

DarbySS

Member
Dec 11, 2006
23
0
Wow, thanks for all the responses. Ya, I didnt mention that, but I intend on getting a front sprocket too. I think I'm going to go with Tag sprockets and another D.I.D. chain.

Got another stupid question.......does the chain have a master link on it, (like a bicycle) and if so, will I need a special tool to pop the pins?
 
7

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
You need a grinder and a chain breaker to shorten a chain, but they do use a master link as well. The master links on o-ring chains press fit which is kind of tricky to do without special tools, but can be improvised.
 
B

BadMotoWeazal

Member
Aug 21, 2004
31
0



You can cut the old chain off with a pair of lock cutters then count out the links of the old chain.

To cut the new chain to the desired lenghth, I use a Dremmel tool with a small cutting wheel to cut the pins. Take your time & count the length of the chain twice before you cut....The old saying is "measure twice & cut once". I then use a pair of vice-grip needle nose pliers to compress the masterlink onto the new chain

Make sure to put the "clip" of the masterlink on in the right direction....The chain box sure have proper directions on doing this. GL :cool:
 

oldguy

Always Broken
Dec 26, 1999
9,411
0
Why not just get and use the correct tool?
http://store.bobscycle.com/browse.cfm/4,44399.htm $19 and you get touse it over and over and Do the job right. This is the same one I have had for 10 years and never had a problem with it
Check Bobs for good prices on Chains and sprockets also
 
7

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
You still have to grind the ends off of the pin because they are mushroomed a little bit. I bought my last chain through a dealer. O-ring chains are expensive through a dealer and expensive through the online auction site, but if you buy it at the dealer they'll cut it to length for you and not usually charge extra. All you need to do is get that master link pressed in. It's not a tight press fit, but it takes a little finagling with a pair of pliers. If you can, get a cheap pair of slip joints (ChanneLocks) and grind the jaws down (make them narrower so they fit between the pins, this will make the job way easy.
 

oldguy

Always Broken
Dec 26, 1999
9,411
0
From the way I read his post he was buying a non O ring replacement. I guess I wouldn't waste my money on an Oring chain. I have always had great luck with the standard non O Ring chains and this tool works perfectly on them no grinding needed. We do ride only MX and if I ws going to ride in an enviroment where my chain was going to be continually submerged in water/mud I might consider Oring.
 

RM_guy

Moderator
Damn Yankees
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Nov 21, 2000
7,046
208
North East USA
76GMC1500 said:
You still have to grind the ends off of the pin because they are mushroomed a little bit...
Click to expand...
No you don't. Any chain breaker will push the pin right out with no grinding.
 
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