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Canadian Daves JustKDX
Need HELP with intermittent ignition problem...
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[QUOTE="reepicheep, post: 1359387, member: 104942"] I'm in Lebanon, near Cincinnati, about 2 miles from Kings Island... I'm new to the KDX, but I am rebuilding mine from the ground up and it's going pretty well, and my previous owners made sure there is nothing about a KDX that I don't have experience fixing :(. If you were closer, I would drop by with a meter and we could do some quick tests, but Yellow Springs is a bit of a haul... My stator problem was easier to diagnose... said previous owner let a leaking crank seal go, which contaminated the stator, and dissolved the insulation on the windings on one of the coils. I can slap a meter on mine tonight (I got a new stator on ebay) and see what the resistance is. A stator is simply a long single strand of copper wire that is wound in a specific pattern. When you move a permanent magnet through this field, it induces (a) a resistance force on the magnet and (b) a current through the wire. The stator can fail in a couple of different ways. It can fail "open" where that long continuous piece of wire breaks somewhere (either in the coil or more likely at a connector). That is easy to check, put your meter on Ohms and put each lead into each of the stator wire connector openings (use a small wire to get in there if your leads are too big) and measure the resistance. If it's infinity (basically what you get when you don't have the leads touching anything but air), the wire is broken somewhere, and the stator won't work. The second failure mode is trickier (and in my experience, more common). The insulation on the stator coils fails, and two coils short out against each other. To test this one, you again measure resistance, but you are hunting ghosts at this point. A cheap digital multi meter is lucky to read accurately below one ohm, and the "normal" resistance of the long piece of wire used for the stator is probably something like .4 ohms or less. So you are trying to spot a change from .4 ohms to .2 ohms or something, depending on where the coils have shorted. A good meter can do it (I still have my trusty Fluke 77 I bought with my first co-op pay check 20 some years ago), but the basic Harbor Freight $9 meter won't. The third failure mode (a minor variation of the second) is when the insulation fails, but the stator shorts to the cases or to a bolt instead of just to itself. That is easy to test as well, just measure Ohms between each stator pin and the engine case. Both should be infinity. Finally, you can just look to see if the stator is doing what it is supposed to do, at least if you can get the motor running. Fire it up, pop off that wire, and measure the AC voltage coming out of it. Your meter (unless you spent a boatload of money on it) won't read it that accurately because it is not at 60 HZ, but it'll be good enough for the task at hand, and you should see something like 20 volts off idle, and maybe something like 30-60 volts with the revs up (I'm guessing at those voltages, the manual no doubt has the real ones). I'll try and remember to slap a meter across my stator terminals tonight (both my good one, and my known bad one) and I'll post what I see... [/QUOTE]
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Dirt Bike Discussions By Brand
Canadian Daves JustKDX
Need HELP with intermittent ignition problem...
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