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Message: [QUOTE="canyncarvr, post: 714162, member: 16552"] What stuff? Front? Back? Both? A spring holder for the forks is handy. You can make something or use a wrench. A search of this site should help you. Have some pvc pipe on hand to make a realistic preload spacer. The oem setup is stupid (about 40mm). With new fork springs you will be changing that. With a coldwound spring (what you'll likely end up with) a preload of 10mm or so is fine if your spring is the correct rate for your weight. Might as well change the fork oil. Get yourself a syringe from your local grange/vet shop...and some tubing that will friction-fit on the end of it. The basic idea is to overfill the fork (spring out, fork collapsed..[b]no bubbles[/b] in the fluid), then use your syringe with the tubing cut to the desired length to suck out the excess fluid. 110mm or so is a good starting point for oil level. Take a look [url=http://www.dishers.com/hobbies/Repairs] [b]HERE[/b] [/url] at matt's tutorial that will give you some good pointers. For the shock...you can loosen the locking ring with a drift or punch if you don't have the right spanner. Loosening (and tightening) the lock-ring will probably be easier with the shock still on the bike. Loosen (or tighten on reassy) the spring by turning the spring by hand. A bit of soapy water on the bottom will help it slip. [b]BEFORE[/b] you take the spring off the shock, measure (or count the threads) your current setup position. That will give you a general idea of how far to squeeze the new spring before you put the shock back on the bike. Easier to do on the bench than in the bike. Depending on how much trouble you want to go to...slipping the carb out of its boots takes about 30 seconds....and it being out of the way will give you a [b]whole[/b] lot better access to adjust the shock when it's back on. Which..btw..you understand race sag/free sag...what they mean, how they're set? Don't bother wrenching on anything until you understand that process. You [b]must[/b] set your sag when you replace the shock spring. Otherwise, if you're generally mechanically inclined, it's not a great big deal. Oh...be careful on reassy of the pull rods (dog bones)...yanno..the unitrack knuckle stuff? It's real easy to tighten the pull rod [b]against[/b] the shoulder of the bolt. That's not right. The bolt shoulder [b]must[/b] extend through the pull rod. You can use a c-clamp to hold it together whilst you attach the fasteners. You're going to clean/grease the suspension linkage while you have it apart...right? If you haven't been doing this on a regular basis (three times a year or so), you will likely find the bottom shock bearing is toast. Put it back together with a new bearing/sleeve and seals. All sounds like a lot of fun, huh? Whew!! I'm ready for a beer!! ;) [/QUOTE]

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