New Bike Prep

[tangell]

My KDX220R is about 5 weekends old now, but I have now stumbled upon the justkdx site and I see there are some things I should have done. I figure, better a few weekends late than never. Trouble is, this is my first bike in a looooong time, and then I didn't know what maintenance was.

So, the following sounds nice, but I have no clue how to do it:

"Disassemble the rear suspension linkage, using a clean rag wipe as much of the existing grease out as you can ( if it’s a new-to-you bike then clean the bearings out with solvent and air blow dry ) and repack the bearings. Don't forget to slather a generous layer on the seals either. You don't want to damage them before you even have a chance to ride. If you're really on the ball you do the same thing with the steering stem bearings too."

I'm not exactly sure what the rear suspension linkage entails, and I couldn't begin to take it apart. Is there any place to go for basic, basic info?

Thanks,

Toby

 

[canyncarvr]

I see a service manual in your future. You need one. Call your local kawi dealer and order one.

You might take a gander at:
http://www.buykawasaki.com

You can view parts breakdowns based on model year.

The short version:
Put the bike on a center support (bucket, whatever).

Remove the nuts from the pull rods (the 4" or so long metal plates at the bottom of the shock).

Remove the bolts.

Remove the bottom shock mount bolt.

Remove the attaching bolt/nut that holds the unitrack to the frame.

Now you have the unitrack in you hand. Remove the grease seals with a small screwdriver (insert thru bolt hole at an angle, gently pry them off). Clean the bearings. BrakClean works good. You can soak the whole thing is some kinda degreaser, too.

Pack the bearings with the BEST grease you can get. That is NOT your general one-each chassis crap you buy at the corner autoparts store. Belray makes some waterproof marine-application grease that has been reported to do a good job. If the grease wipes easily off your hands...if it doesn't make you cuss and swear when you're cleaning up the mess afterwards...it probably isn't good enough! ;)

Pay special attention to the lower shock bearing. This is a commonly failed bearing. Note: even a brand new bearing is junk. The rollers are sloppily spaced such that they look crooked (again..even when brand new).

Fill the inside cavity of the seals with grease. Put it back together.

***BIG NOTE****

With everything greased, the pull rods (commonly called dogbones) will NOT fit easily over the shoulder of the bolts. The pull rods MUST fit over the shoulders of these bolts!! Use something like a c-clamp to squeeze the parts together before you wrench on 'em. If you don't, you can catch the edge of the shoulder on the dogbone...all will seem fine. Then your first ride the pull rod will get displaced from that edge and the whole thing will be sloppy-loose. The pull rods will get mangled and you will not be happy.

The steering stem entails removing the front tire, the forks and the triple clamp. The bottom bearing stays on the stem. The top bearing just sits there. Putting that unit together involves knowing how to assemble a tapered roller assy (like older vehicle wheel bearings). Basically, while rotating the stem back and forth, tighten the top spanner nut to JUST FIRM..that means say, finger tight + 1/4 turn. While holding the assy up into the frame tube, loosen the nut, retighten to firm finger tight.

This is NOT an assembly that 'likes' tight. You will ruin the bottom bearing in a flash if it's too tight.

Use the same super-d-duper grease you used for the suspension.

Now then...there's also the swingarm that needs to be greased, too. Do that the same time you take the shock linkage off.
Remove the rear tire.

Remove the nut that is attached to the swingarm pivot bolt. You should be able to press or lightly tap the pivot out with a deadblow and a wooden/brass/plastic drift. BTW...wait to do this for a few months, and you'll maybe need to cut this thing out with a hacksaw blade!!! They get stuck!!! Did I say !!! and !!!!! .......... ..!

With the pivot out, you'll see the roller bearings that need cleanin' and greasin'.

Again.....same grease as the hotrod stuff you bought specially for this purpose.

And you're done!!!

Great!!!

Now...for the jetting sequence.............;)

Take a look at CDave's site for some most excellent info on the kdx:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net

Cheers!!

Oh...and if you approach this from the point of view of, 'I couldn't begin to take this apart,' maybe you shouldn't. It's not rocket science, however, basic handtools and mechanical knowledge is probably a requirement. If you don't know a LHT from a RHT you may well be better off having someone show you how to do it, or have it done by a shop you trust.

Nah!!! Dive in!!! Have fun!!

 

[tangell]

Based on your excellent description, I just completed the suspension linkage and swingarm - woo hoo!

I decided not to tackle the steering stem until I have some experienced help.

Thanks for taking the time to post the detailed description.

Toby

 

[canyncarvr]

1. First, you are most welcome.

2. Nah!! summore!!

No reason, if the suspension and swingarm was nothin' but fun, that you can't not handle the steering stem, too! ;)


A couple of notes:
Watch the torque on the front axle cap nuts! The studs ARE replaceable..and they DO break without too much trouble.

Tighten the cap soas to end up with NO gap at the top, (will be a gap at the bottom). Use a thread locking agent (blue..not red if loctite is your choice) on the cap nuts.

When you're done with the steering stem, the handlebars should 'drop' to either side easily when the front is levered off the ground at somewhat of an angle (like levering it back against the kickstand). It will drop LESS well to the left due to cables but should in NO way bind or feel 'stiff'.

On the opposite side of that coin, neither should you feel ANY slop after you're done if you straddle the front wheel (it being in the air), grab a fork in each hand and try to 'rock' the stem forward and backward.

Take note of the cable routing before you take it all apart. A mis-routed throttle cable could lead to binding and possible severe personal injury after you t-bone a tree at WOFT. Make sure IT works when you're done, too.

It's GOTTA be time for a ride by now.............

Cheers!