New Reeds Time: Boyesen, Carbon Tech or V-Force?

[placelast]

I have a friend with a '90 KDX200, and it needs replacement reeds. He's for more 250-like delivery from mid to top, to loft the front end at speed - there's already enough bottom as is.

In the JustKDX site Boyesen Standard Series are recommended (over the Rad Valve). How does it compare to Carbon Tech's high or even the V-Force Delta 2 Reed Valve? Is the latter worth the extra $?

 

[canyncarvr]

The 200 can run more LIKE a 250 with some setups than others..some things the 200 just won't do, like 'loft the front end at speed.'

Of course, that depends on what 'at speed' means. As an example, you won't be doing 50mph in 4th gear on flat ground, twist the throttle and wheelie the thing.

Agreed, I'd say boyesen power reeds are better than the boyesen radvalve (considering the price of the radvalve..which by the way has dropped something like $30 of late). The DFII is a horse of a different color. You can feel it in the seat of your pants in a big way.

I set my 200 up this weekend for a trip to glamis NEXT weekend. With a CEL needle (#7TV) a couple of degrees of spark retard and my -30 (rev) pipe it's MUCH more 250 'like' than it was when setup for woods riding. The powerband hits like a ton-o-bricks and the bike revs considerably higher than it did.

And THAT's with my steahly FWW still on!

What pipe does he have on now?

 

[placelast]

He has the FMF Fatty.

I'm thinking he ought to do the 1) RB carb mod, but that is geared towards bottom to mid, right? 2) EG or FRP porting with head milling, and 3) the reeds or better yet the reed cage as in V-Force (high tension = high-RPM power).

 

[canyncarvr]

The RB improves bottom end response (the plenum divider)...also improves the top (the 36mm bore).

I don't have one, but the EG 225 big kit for the 200 has been well reviewed by all.

'There is no replacement for displacement!'

Keep in mind that it's a VForceII. Some retailers will sell the older VForce for a 'clearance' price...but you won't get adjustable reed tension with the earlier model of MotoTassinari cage.

If he wants 'the best' for his kawi, he's got several things that need doing. It all depends, 'eh? On how much $$ he wants to spend for one thing....;)


Glamis in two days!!

 

[Matt90GT]

Well I bought the Vforce II reeds for the 250. So when the motor is back together I can report back to you. Seems they are the hot item presently with reeds.

The FMF torque reeds are nice for low end power for sure. That is what I am presently running. But top end is a bit flat, but that could be from carbon in the motor or low compression I had.

 

[canyncarvr]

I saw a VForceIII at a bike shop today............

 

[placelast]

The RB improves bottom end response (the plenum divider)...also improves the top (the 36mm bore).

I don't have one, but the EG 225 big kit for the 200 has been well reviewed by all.

Keep in mind that it's a VForceII. Some retailers will sell the older VForce for a 'clearance' price...but you won't get adjustable reed tension with the earlier model of MotoTassinari cage.

If he wants 'the best' for his kawi, he's got several things that need doing. It all depends, 'eh? On how much $$ he wants to spend for one thing....;)

Glamis in two days!!

OK. So 1mm helps top end enough to feel/make it worth the $? My RMX was bored by him from 38=>39.5mm, but I did not feel it until Eric Gorr did a mo-everywhere (mild) port job.

Wouldn't more cc's effectively lower the xfer ports, increasing bottom-end power? (In addition to a greater overall boost)

I'm aware of the older, original MT V-Force cage - have one on my RMX. I simply wanted to know if it made $150 worth of power over new reeds. I wouldn't suggest he adjusts the reeds, rather setting them and forgetting as conditions here in SoCa don't vary much as other parts of the states.

How much $$ he wants to spend? Not much, as he feels the same way I do - it doesn't have the go as a 250 does. But if I buy it, then I would try just about anything to make it go better, being a hop-up nut.

Glamis? Make sure to stop at this Mexican food joint: www.camachosplace.com. I've been there three times this last month, and have never been disappointed. My fav. is the carne asada steak (#7) with two servings of refried beans. They've been in business since 1945 or so (closed Mondays).

 

[canyncarvr]

Certainly it's a subjective thing. I can't answer for you in the, 'Is it worth it?' category.

There are quite a few things you can spend your money on in the 'hop-up' category. I regret few of the items I've spent good $$ on. I could have done without a radvalve. Other than that.....it's all good.

A borejob alone may well lower the ports. That's why they're fixed after it's bored.

Thanks for the eatery tip. I think most of our diet will consist of liquid intake, though..........

 

[Canadian Dave]

Given the bike already has a pipe, and I'm assuming a silencer to go along with it, I'd personally be looking to Gorr or Fredette for cylinder and head mods. The V-F reeds get great reviews but $150 of cylinder and head work from either of these guys is going to yield more noticeable results and you'll be able to choose what kind of power delivery you want.

If you're budget will allow for an additional $150 then look at a V-F set up and if not then pop for the Boyesen reeds.

Unless your cylinder is damaged I'd stick with the stock displacement as enlarging the cylinder required a sleeve on 89 to 94 KDX200s.

David

 

[placelast]

I'd personally be looking to cylinder and head mods. The V-F reeds get great reviews but $150 of cylinder and head work is going to yield more noticeable results.

If you're budget will allow for an additional $150 then look at a V-F set up and if not then pop for the Boyesen reeds.

Unless your cylinder is damaged I'd stick with the stock displacement as enlarging the cylinder required a sleeve on 89 to 94 KDX200s.

Thanks, Dave.

Tonight my friend said he will sell it to me but first we need to get him a 250-something 'cuz he has the same taste for power/hit/grunt like I do. (The KX/KDX is for my middle son but I am setting it up for me & tough/tight enduros.)

Since it may be mine someday, budget for a V-F is not a problem, but I'd have it ported and the head milled first to see what that does, along with a timing change like DBD recommends. In the meantime the Boyesen reeds will do.

The bigger bore is out as I care not for sleeved cylinders; too ad as I fear not greater displacement.

Carver: they have adult beverages to wash down their good food...

 

[canyncarvr]

I missed dbd's (dirt bike dave?) timing comment.

The personality change in a newer (H) model 200 with a couple degrees of retard is considerable. I don't know what dbd said, but you might want to do a bit of research before you change timing.

I don't have it at hand, but EG's comments on timing changes are important. As I recall him to say, retard is a good thing on a lot of bikes, advance is hardly EVER a good thing. Also, that it doesn't take much. I recall .060" (movement of the stator ring) being about as far as you want to go. Figure that out based on the diameter of the ring, and you'll see it's NOT a matter of even 5º or anything close!!

BTW, it's easy to have the woodruff key slip out of the crank slot when you put the flywheel back on. Make sure the key is in place by inserting a piece of something in the keyway after install to make sure the key is still THERE!

I knew it moved easily. I took care that it didn't. I did not check it. I would have found it wasn't there if I had.

oops. Lots of pipe heat!! Lots of 'no-go', too!!

'Adult' beverages? Maybe my mommy can buy me a few......;)

 

[Barker]

Originally posted by Matt90GT
Well I bought the Vforce II reeds for the 250. So when the motor is back together I can report back to you. Seems they are the hot item presently with reeds.

The FMF torque reeds are nice for low end power for sure. That is what I am presently running. But top end is a bit flat, but that could be from carbon in the motor or low compression I had.

I installed an SST pipe on my 03 250. More, more more. Bottom is improved, if that was possible (03 is very snappy down there), but where it really helped was mid to top. The dip at the top of the powerband is gone, replaced with more mid to top power, and mucho over rev. I rode "A Day In The Dirt" and wasn't down on power next to the blue bikes. I thought the pipe was all hype, but it's pretty cool. Since, i've installed a V-Force II. It richened up just a bit, and will try dropping the needle. Air screw is out to the limit. Still, it's clean running. The DVFII makes scary upper mid to top power. The bike runs side by side with our V-Force/FMF Gnarly 99 CR 250 through the gears even with the CR having slightly higher overall gear ratio. However, when it comes to hooking up, the CR will leave it behind. The 03 250 is an old fat mans 125:)
Mike

 

[Midhigh]

I just installed the V-Force II reeds in my 1996 KDX 200. All I can say is WOW! and DOUBLE WOW! You can really feel the difference. I left the tension setting on high. the trails we ride bleed into the MX track and a grass track, so the mid to upper band is very important for me. I might even say they have been to best and most noticable mod. to date. $133 from Rocky Mountain ATV. I do think they have made it run alittle rich. I am going to try to drop the needle one and see what happens.

Delta V-Force II Well worth the $$$$

 

[placelast]

I ended up buying the V-Force Delta II since I moved far away from my parts supplier this weekend. I bought it 'cuz my friend will sell the bike to me soon as he's activley looking for a recent 250 E/XC.

I'll let ya guys know what I think. The timing will be done after the VF to distinguish the "feel" in changing the two.

I also bought a UFO KDX/KLX headlight; already have the Acerbis (sp?) drop fender extension like you see on the euro enduro bikes. And also got a set of .39 springs for the front (it has stock .41s from the RMX conventionals.)