Hey there, I just wanted to start a thread on fellow bike riders/mechanics on there favourite tool, chemical or any trick they use when fixing, cleaning or a riding a bike that would just make the rest of our lives easier that you just have to share with the world.....
Nicks and Tricks
- Thread starter 500_boy
- Start date
KiwiBird
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 30, 2000
- 2,385
- 0
For use during tire changes this is one of the most useful tools I have - it's purpose is to pull the valve stem though the rim without removing the skin from your knuckles.
It works without any fuss on a Honda sized valve hole or you can drill the valve hole out to be the same size as Honda holes.
Click Here
It works without any fuss on a Honda sized valve hole or you can drill the valve hole out to be the same size as Honda holes.
Click Here
I use a pair of side cuts to remove exhaust springs. You would think it would cut the spring but it does not and the side cuts never slip off. When adjusting chains I shove a T-handle between the top of the rear sprocket and the chain while rolling the wheel backwards. It keeps the axle blocks tight up against the adjusting bolts and allows you to tighten the axle nut. For cleaning, I use furniture polish on my plastic it seems to work the best.
- Feb 9, 2000
- 3,715
- 0
mxmatt426 said:
I use a rag folded up about 3 times for the same purpose.
Get some good silicone spray and hit your boots with it after washing them (need to be dry too). It'll help keep the water out, make the buckles work smooth as butta, and they'll look better.
Marine Goop is awesome for a lot of uses.
I can't imagine not having QUICK STRAPS on all my goggles.
dirt bike dave
Sponsoring Member
- May 3, 2000
- 5,348
- 3
Put your new tire under the hood of your car, on top of a warm engine for 1/2 hour or so before installing the tire. Or since it is summer, just leave it out in the hot sun for a few hours. A warm, soft tire is much easier to install.
- Thread starter
- #9
For Cleaning my Quad, I usually use Castrol Super Clean, I use that stuff for just about everything, it works excellent and is biodegradable. Be Careful though as it will take the colour right out of a seat (it is very acidic). When Im done cleaning My quad I let it dry over night then the next day armour all the entire thing, It really brings out the colour nicely of the plastics, I even armour all underneath and this makes it much much easier to clean the quad after mudding. Also about twice or three times a year I Thoroughly soak my entire bike in used Hydraulic Oil, It prevents rust quite a bit and hydraulic oil has detergents in it so it makes it very easy to clean off the quad nicely.
Also when restoring bikes, My dad and I created a bike lift out of a wheelchair lift. We took a wheelchair lift, put an platform on it that is roughly just longer than the length of a bike and the normal width of the lift. It works great because you can move the bike up and down as you please to wherever you have to work on it to eyelevel whether you are sitting, or standing.
Also, when restoring a bike, a wirewheel, sandpaper, and grease are your best friends.
Also when restoring bikes, My dad and I created a bike lift out of a wheelchair lift. We took a wheelchair lift, put an platform on it that is roughly just longer than the length of a bike and the normal width of the lift. It works great because you can move the bike up and down as you please to wherever you have to work on it to eyelevel whether you are sitting, or standing.
Also, when restoring a bike, a wirewheel, sandpaper, and grease are your best friends.
A short piece of plastic PVC pipe split down the middle makes an excellent seal driver for fork seals
A large chef's spoon with an old bike grip attached is a great mud scraper
An ibuprofin bottle from CVS fits perfectly in the exhaust pipe of a CRF 450 for trips to the car wash
A large chef's spoon with an old bike grip attached is a great mud scraper
An ibuprofin bottle from CVS fits perfectly in the exhaust pipe of a CRF 450 for trips to the car wash
seized cables can be freed by putting one end in a funnel, seal around the cable/funnel with a bung of blue tac, fill the funnel with penetrating fluid and leave hanging up overnight (funnel high), capilliary action will draw the fluid into the tightest seized cables
i use a little bit of baby oil (or other type of chemicle like armor all) something that doesnt dry out and put a little on a rag and then wipe down the inside of the fenders and the bottom of the frame?skid plate and inside the brake gaurds it when you hit the mud it just falls right off cause the mud cant stick to the plastic just be careful you dont put it on the seat or any part of the bike you have to get a good grip on (the seat and hand grips for two)
another good trick i learned from my uncle who races flat track is if you put break fluid all over the tire before you race on a hard track the chemicles in the tire and brake fluid react with each other and will soften the tire and make you get better grip ( just make sure you wipe all the brake fluid off before you ride it)
KAY DEE EXER
~SPONSOR~
- Mar 3, 2003
- 629
- 0
Skin too..... :ohmy:500_boy said:
add a little grease to the very ends of threads on most of the screws (especially the ones that bolt the rad guards to your tank)
it'll help them seat better and help prevent stripping threads.
a household cleaner/polish with orange oil in it is superb for cleaning pretty much every component and plastic part on your bike after a good jet wash. it shines it beautifully and removes the dirt that builds in any scratches.
the best torque wrench money can buy, the best investment ever. (not really a quick tip but always worth a mention)
it'll help them seat better and help prevent stripping threads.
a household cleaner/polish with orange oil in it is superb for cleaning pretty much every component and plastic part on your bike after a good jet wash. it shines it beautifully and removes the dirt that builds in any scratches.
the best torque wrench money can buy, the best investment ever. (not really a quick tip but always worth a mention)
Keep those cheap steel bars which come with Japanese bikes or don't throw away those nice aluminum ones you bent. File one end's edge around the circumference to form a mini-cookie cutter. When you need to replace grips (for those using hand guards); slide them onto the cheap bar end and tap the garage concrete floor until poked through. Thus a fairly perfect knockout is created for the bar end mounts to pass through. No sloppy slicing/dicing required!
Wedge/wiggle a phillips screw driver under a grip and squirt WD-40 under in between - they pull right off.
When removing components with multiple mounting points, immediately replace as much of the hardware as you go along so you don't have to waste brain energy on how it fits back together, moreover to prevent inadvertent distribution of said precious hardware under various large garage fixtures with a simple kick of the foot.
(I once had a wheel off for days, and it dawned upon me one afternoon while at work the kids could be rolling it down the street - bam! There goes an otherwise straight disc rotor. Thereafter I did not delay any tire/wheel work.)
Wedge/wiggle a phillips screw driver under a grip and squirt WD-40 under in between - they pull right off.
When removing components with multiple mounting points, immediately replace as much of the hardware as you go along so you don't have to waste brain energy on how it fits back together, moreover to prevent inadvertent distribution of said precious hardware under various large garage fixtures with a simple kick of the foot.
(I once had a wheel off for days, and it dawned upon me one afternoon while at work the kids could be rolling it down the street - bam! There goes an otherwise straight disc rotor. Thereafter I did not delay any tire/wheel work.)
- Thread starter
- #24
Adding to Sykos comment, when taking apart anything on bikes, cars, quads. It is a good idea if there is any rust to wire brush out the threads and then grease them. If there is not any rust at all grease it a bit anyways. It will just be that much easier when you have to take that part off again in the future
I like hot coolant as carb cleaner. I use a crock pot I got at the Salvation Army for $1.49 and old coolant. Turn the crock pot on before removing and disassembling carb, drop carb body and brass in, do 20 minutes or so other work on the bike, come back and blow parts dry. The worst of corrsion/gunk will come off with a toothbrush. Safe for all metals, rubber and viton. Plastic floats too. WON'T remove the clearcoat/porosity sealer that is sprayed on some of the cheaper carbs.
Works well for carbon on powervalves, heads and pistons, etc. too. The carbon becomes slimy and will wipe off.
Make sure you use a basket so no parts are in direct contact with the hot botton of the pot.
Works well for carbon on powervalves, heads and pistons, etc. too. The carbon becomes slimy and will wipe off.
Make sure you use a basket so no parts are in direct contact with the hot botton of the pot.
