Old Car buffs - advise needed

[Strick]

I am wondering what a 1941 Ford P/u is worth.
-Body is 100% straight, good paint horrible color
-all original gauges
-interior needs work (currently has good buckets)
-Dirve train is from 70's model Toyota Land Cruiser, yes it is 4wd :ugg:
-engine is a Chev. 327 (?) not much chrome
-3speed manual tranny
-all outer molding, trim, lights are all in awesome condition
-tires and wheel are aftermarket and will be quick to go after new paint job.

Any idea on what something like this is worth??

The owner was asking $8K, then $6K, now I can get it for $5K.

Thanks in advance
Strick

 

[a454elk]

I think 5k is still a little high. More like 3K or something like that. Might go a bit higher but you're basically buying a body, everything else is non-original. If it's in running condition, that's a plus but it sounds like it's put together.
Elk

 

[Howser03]

It depends on if you want to spend a lot of money on it. A real good paint job will run you about 2 or 3 grand. Now your total is up to 7 or 8k. Really nice new seats will cost you probably around $500 to $1000. How many miles on this puppy? Then probably another $2,000 on new tires and wheels. That truck will cost you over $10K when you end up getting in excellent condition. It depends on if you want to spend that much on an old truck with a smaller V-8 engine and a older tranny.

If it were me I'd buy a nice straight one with not motor, fair amount of rust, and horrible inside for dirt cheap. Would put a HO 350ci motor with matching 5 speed tranny. Nice bucket seats, new carpetings, gauges, and nice wheels and rims for around the same price. :p

 

[Danman]

I would tend agree with Elk, 5K is a little high. Just the body and gauages seem to be original. It a Frankenstien truck. Cool, but no doubt you will have problems order replacement parts for it. You must know what componets can from what model and what year. You also did not mention the milage on it. Do you now the actual miles on the clock? Another tip would be to check the underside of the pans and inside of the panels for rust. The paint job and carpet inside the truck can really hide a lot of cost. If those things are repaired properly its not a big deal, but if they were done wrong it would cost you in labor unless you can do that sort of thing. If they just put a band-aid on it the rust will show back up later.

 

[Strick]

Thanks for the replies (so far).

The truck runs. I would be making some drastic changes right away. Auto tranny, Camaro/Firebird front clip, paint job and interior. I figure another $5-6K. I know I am being conservative, but I do have a couple of connections.

I looked on NADA and came up with $3K low, $6K avg, and $11K high. So, if it is just worth what I have in it when I am through (not including my time - which I enjoy) then I am O.K. with the transaction. I just don't want to be totally upside down, just in case I would need to sell it.

Have you guys seen what a totally tricked out 40-41 Ford P/U looks like? It is one of (if not) the favorite trucks of mine. I just really wish it wasn't a 4WD right now, oh well.

The other thing that I am up against is HOT AUGUST NIGHTS, ever heard of it? We have, here in Reno, one of the largest classic car events in the U.S. in August. It is American Grafitti revisited, it is awesome. Becasue of this event the truck WILL sell that week if the owner goes to auction with it. I just don't know for how much??? That is why I am looking for experts here for their (your) advice. Thanks again.

 

[longtime]

Good luck, Strick. I envy the prospects. . . .

 

[a454elk]

If it's something you've always wanted and loved, hell with reason, GO FOR IT!!;):):) (even if it IS a Ford)

 

[Strick]

I don't mean to start a WAR, but ELK I agree!

My Dad was affiliated with GM for 43 years. To buy a Ford is to insult my own father. BUT it does have a Chev. Engine ;). I am gong over tonight to take it for a spin, and a thorough - once over. I'll post back my results!

 

[a454elk]

No war here, just good clean fun!!:):):)

 

[clutchcover]

I agree, 5k is a little high. 4k is even gettin' pushy. If you decide to start replacing stuff and want go hi po, get a ford 9 inch rear end. They came stock from the late 50's up, my 59 ford truck even has one. They are superior in performance and cheap. Even all the chevy guys use these. I'm a Ford guy so it gives me something to gloat about. Next thing to work on is all these chevy engines in these fords. J/k

 

[Strick]

I had a 'narrowed' Ford 9" in my '74 Chevy Vega (which had a 327 and later a 350). You are correct about the rear end - they are bullet proof. Yes, if I do get the truck, it will have a 4.71 blower on it before August, along with nitrous. I WANT another hot rod!

So 5K is high for a completely cherry body with all of the trim and molding intact? I must just be ignorant about this stuff. Thanks for the responses guys.

 

[IrishEKU]

Hey Strick,
Is the body Fiber or Sheet? If it's sheet it is worth it, esspecially if the bed is already tubbed and has origional oak planking!. As for the Chevy engine, go with it.......If you want to put an auto tranny in it go with a turbo 3 or 400 Xmission. If you can find a rear end from say a 68 comero or corvett , that should have the gearing to match(I welcome any ideas to my reasoning if I am wrong) As for your drive shaft after you remove that pesky transfer and front end. You could find a stock drive shaft from original equipment and fit it to your new set up with just a cutting torch and a stick welder. I would just suggest getting it balanced at a shop. However if the mesurements from your tranny to your diff match up you won't have to cut or weld. Just balance to your engine and differential set up.
Good Luck !!!
PK

 

[WoodsRider]

Unlike some other replies, I don't think $5k is too high. Of course, up here in the northeast, you can get that for any car over 30 years old that hasn't been eaten away by winter salt.

A lot depends on the changeover to the 327 engine with Landcruiser running gear. I'd be afraid to take a "cob" job off road.

Personally I'd rather have and old Ford that is 100% stock right down to the flathead V8... of course opinions will vary.

 

[IrishEKU]

WoodsRDR,
You are right in the fully stock option, I think every vintage loving, automobile droolin', car and truck fanatic out there agree's. But the question is, where can we all find this Valhala of old truck and car parts? If you know something we don't, please anoint we the lesser people with thy knowlege....... :D :D :D

All in fun! PK

 

[clutchcover]

There are lotsa place to find parts. Macs, lmc, so cal speed shop, farmers fields. If ya ever need a part post and i'm sure you'll be hooked up.

 

[Strick]

More scoop; The body is unbelievable. I crawled the entire underneath one minor rust spot in the rear of the cab on the passenger side. The entire frame and running gear is from a '72 Toyota Land Cruiser. The engine is a 64 corvette 327/365hp (4bolt). The interior has nice full size buckets, and seat belts complete with shoulder straps. The motor even has an electric fan.

I grew up with a car buff, my dad can name every single auto in our 'Hot August Nights' parade. I too am real appreciative of 'original' condition. I am (may be) buying a car that has been butchered, which is exactly what I want - A car that will turn heads AND run a strong 1/4 mile (when I am through).

I have done a lot of research at this point, and now must agree with Woodsrider, $5K is a VERY good deal. The money these 40-41 Fords bring has more to do with body condition than anything else (original or not).

I am getting closer, thanks again for the replies guys!

 

[IrishEKU]

ClutchCover,
The problem here in KY is ounce you find a good parts place like that farmers feild or that other persons yard. You usually need a weed wacker and a bushhog to get to them. Everyone remember, "You might be a Redneck?" :) :) :)

 

[WoodsRider]

Irish - Out west, in a drier climate, you'll find lots of older cars that are still as the factory produced. These vehicles will not be in "cherry" condition and need plenty of TLC.

Even though it's got the Landcruiser frame, running gear and a 327 Bowtie, that '41 Ford sounds like a good deal to me. Go for it Strick!

 

[Jaybird]

I think that motor is 375hp. Are the heads "double hump"?
One of the best GM ever assembled.
I'd take the motor out and replace it with stock, if you can find one.

 

[Strick]

I will look tonight for the Mickey mouse ears. I had fuely heads on my Vega's motor. Do you think these are 194's or 202's? The info. I have on the 375hp 327 is fuel injected. This motor is carbed. I will post back my findings.

Why would you take the motor out Jaybird? I love small block Chevy's. I definitely want a small block in the truck.

edit - Mouse ears on heads, so definitely the high perf. version 327

 

[Jaybird]

That is a highly sought after motor there, Strick. So much potential for racing.
I think it would be a great motor for the truck. I had one of those same motors once. I raced it in a dirt roundy-rounder. I think we ended up with about 410hp @ 7800. We put on Crane rocker rollers, .505 Isky cam, steel crank, comp. pistons(11:1?). I can't remember what crab we ended up with on it, seems like we used an old vacuum(680 maybe) Holley and dint use the vacuum. (?) This was a long time ago and my oldness tends to block things. :)
I only asked about the double humps because so many would take the heads off and replace with lesser heads. You have a good find there.

 

[Strick]

Update for the responders:

I have passed on the '41, and here's why:

The truck being on a '72 Land Cruiser Frame and drive train makes it too much work. For someone with the facilities, it would be a good deal. For me, too much work. The frame set-up is not going to work well with what I had in mind (converintng it to a 2wd Hot Rod).

So, thanks to the internet, I may be getting a fairly tricked out '69 Camaro out to Modesto CA. Much more $$, but a lot less work.

Jaybird - Are you saying the heads are 2.02's?? The Camaro has 1.94's (350-4bolt). :-X10

 

[WoodsRider]

The '69 was always my favorite Camaro. Something about the way that car looks from the front, sides and back always appealed to the hot rodder in me. :)

 

[Strick]

Yes, the search IS over.

I am now the proud owner of a '36 ford p/u. Chopped, lowered, complete after market frame and suspension, original metal body and bed, tilt wheel, locking steering column, nice after market instrument cluster, bench seat (including seat belts), AM-FM cassette (?), electric cooling fan, transmission cooler, baby moon wheels, Chevy small block (much chrome & extras), turbo 350 tranny, front discs. Every single thing works, including the turn signals, hazard lights, even the odometer!

Thanks for all the help, comments, and advice. It was greatly appreciated and ultimately led me to this ride.

 

[Offroadr]

Originally posted by Strick
I will look tonight for the Mickey mouse ears. I had fuely heads on my Vega's motor. Do you think these are 194's or 202's? The info. I have on the 375hp 327 is fuel injected. This motor is carbed. I will post back my findings.

You cannot tell if they are 1.94 or 2.02s by the double humps. Most likely they are 1.94s but casting #s is the only way to tell. I used to have the #s that would confirm the valve size but don't anymore. :(