Talked about lack of high rpms in jetting thread. Last night checked the silencer since I've had about three hours on it and some jetting issues---spooge city. Replaced packing. Wanted to take a look at the plug and the whole area around it was caked with black gunk. Apparently the last guy to change it only finger tightened and it was half way unscrewed. BTW, the entire insulator was a nice tan color and there was no wetness or oil present---seems the jetting is right. I wonder if losing compression as evidenced by the loose plug and all the gook around it could be the culprit. Got her in nice and snug and fingers crossed that it will run better than ever on the next trip . Question. The allen bolts holding on the calipers are tight as a mofo. Tried wd40 and liquid wrench---lots of tapping--etc...Please tell me how to get them out as I have brake pads on the workbench and they're not doing me much good there. Jay
over rev update/canyoncarver/Chief
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Jim Crenca
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- Mar 18, 2001
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For many frozen bolts, applying heat with a propane torch at nut side will allow bolt to back out; don't know that I'd recomend that for a caliper though.
You might try more force, or if you twist the head off there's always an easy out. I lubricate them on re-assembly to prevent a future battle.
You might try more force, or if you twist the head off there's always an easy out. I lubricate them on re-assembly to prevent a future battle.
- Jan 8, 2000
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Those allen heads on the calipers are a royal pain. Don’t use simple allen keys on these. Get a set of allen drivers for your ½” drive.
Don’t reuse those allen head bolts when you reassemble. Get some hex heads to replace ‘em with. Like Jim mentioned below, I rethread those bolts with a little never-seize. CAUTION: If you use never-seize on these bolts you’ll have to check them for proper torque often. I check them every time I check my air pressure and I have found them loose a few times…but I never have problems removing the caliper.
Don’t reuse those allen head bolts when you reassemble. Get some hex heads to replace ‘em with. Like Jim mentioned below, I rethread those bolts with a little never-seize. CAUTION: If you use never-seize on these bolts you’ll have to check them for proper torque often. I check them every time I check my air pressure and I have found them loose a few times…but I never have problems removing the caliper.
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Got the front brakes done with help from gatorkdx---he's a strong young lad! Looking forward to the rear brakes tonight. Strangley, the bike starts on the first kick without choking. Guessing that the float level being 1 or 2mm higher than 16mm spec has richened all the circuits and peeing on a regular basis, will have to change the float level to 15-16mm and see if the jetting needs to be changed. Sound like fun! Jay
just for future reference wd-40 is a fair product,however kano labs has a product known as "kroil" that is far superior.Frozen nuts are caused by moisture working its way into voids in thread pitch created by fastener stretch.Not cold weather ! Never seize will prevent this however frequent re-torque becomes an issue.A good alternative is to use loc-tite it seals thread voids and keeps fastener tight.one word of caution reduce torque value 20-30 % of spec.This is because lubricity characteristics of loc-tite reduces reduces friction between nut and bolt.otherwise you may strip out fastener.Silicone sealant is also an option,but messy.
Jim Crenca
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- Mar 18, 2001
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Don't know if I agree with that one.
I remember way back building Chevy race engines, that when using a bolt stretch gauge for tightening rod bolts that the manufacturer (I think Childs & Albert) recomended using a light oil to reduce friction in the threads for greater accuracy.
I must confess however that there is only a few bolts on a dirt bike that I use a torque wrnech on anyway.
I remember way back building Chevy race engines, that when using a bolt stretch gauge for tightening rod bolts that the manufacturer (I think Childs & Albert) recomended using a light oil to reduce friction in the threads for greater accuracy.
I must confess however that there is only a few bolts on a dirt bike that I use a torque wrnech on anyway.