oversensitive rear brake

[rlbranson]

the rear brake on my '98 kdx200 seems to lock up too easy on steep, loose downhills. The rotor is good and the pads don't have much wear on them and I have cleaned them with brake cleaner. Is there a brake pad that is better for this?
Thanks for any info.

Bob

 

[Matt90GT]

just adjust the pedal down a bit so you have to pivot your ankle farther to actuate the brake.

 

[rlbranson]

The pedal is allready down quite a bit from stock. I don't want to get it way down because of all the rocks around here.
Thanks for the reply.

Bob

 

[asdfjkl;]

You could just try and get used to it. When I switched from my old drum brake bike to my new KDX I'd lock the brakes up every time I touched them.

 

[Braahp]

Its all a matter of "feel" and learning to use the rear brake.

 

[bentbars]

my 02 kdx 200 is the same way. especially with ridding boots on. i can barely feel any resistance in the brake lever. maybe a stiffer return spring?

 

[d rockwell]

I had the same problem & Matt90GT's suggestion is exactly how I also solved the problem. I found when I rode forward in the seat the angle of my foot was such that the brake was too close & adjusting the brake pedal just a small amount downward made all the difference. I also ride alot of rocky terrain & haven't caught it yet. Good Luck Dave

 

[John Harris]

I am adding an amen to Matt and Rockwell's answer and solution. I was worried about mine too, but I have not had a problem only satisfaction from the adjustment. Ride on -- John

 

[john_bilbrey]

Agreed, move it down a litte. The amount you move it down to notice a difference will be very minimal; shouldn't cause any problems with snagging rocks/roots/etc. I had to do the same thing with my brake lever as well as my shift lever. Moving the shift lever was a whole 'nother story....the "chunk" on the backside of the lever was hitting the case, not allowing me to shift. Ended up fixing that with a Dremel.

 

[slapthemat]

oil.

somtimes oil will fall out of the silencer on the rotor and get hot and cause it to stick a bit,

 

[rlbranson]

Got it fixed. Talked to my uncle who is a retired mechanic and he said the pads are glazed and you get little braking or lockup. I took the pads into work and buffed them a bit with the wire wheel (a wire brush wheel on a motor). Wow the baby has brakes now! Had it out twice and I'm loving the rear brake. I guess if you have a problem you should find out more until you get it fixed rather than just putting up with it.
Bob

 

[Hellbender]

I'm glad the glazing fix worked, so this may not be relevant, but you can also adjust the amount of "grab" by filing grooves (or widening existing one/s) in your pads, so as to adjust the amount of pad material clamping the disc.

Less pad surface clamping the disc equals less stopping force.

HB

 

[rlbranson]

Yeah we used to file groves in brake shoes and sand them to break the glaze back when bikes had drum brakes. I guess I was expecting disc brakes to not need any help.

Bob

 

[Feanor]

heh,

I know what you mean about the difference between rear braking while standing and rear braking while sitting...

I think I have the pedal adjusted as close to "optimum" as is possible for me right now, but it still feels very much like I have to dig DEEP to get braking force while standing, and when I'm sitting, just thinking about using the rear gets it to lock up :)

Its almost like you have to adopt a completely different mindset while using the rear while sitting and while standing, but i guess that's just the nature of the beast :)

Someone needs to device a system whereby the rear brake pedal height is adjusted automatically to a preset height via a sensor which determines if there is pressure on the seat (braking while sitting) or if you are standing hahha! I know its ridiculous, but an interesting idea in a kind of useless gadget-like way :)

Feanor