Pipe Check vs Plug Chop

bradf

Member
Jan 26, 2004
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Another method to determine whether the main jet circuit is correct is to pull the pipe off the bike and look down the header tube a few inches. On 2-strokes, a properly jetted engine will leave only a slight amount of ashy deposit in the header section. You want to see very light tan. Black or dark brown = too rich; perfectly clean = too lean (although this is perfect, this leaves no room for error like colder or denser air). Using this method eliminates possibility of the fuel additives giving false plug readings. In short, as long as there is a very light tan ash inside the header, you are close. Another benefit of this method is you don't have to keep installing new plugs to get readings. Even if the jetting has been rich and is leaned out, this section of the pipe will clean up very quickly to give an accurate reading.
 

rethnal

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Jul 14, 2002
659
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Cool tip! But if it's rich do you have to clean the pipe before you do another check?
 

bradf

Member
Jan 26, 2004
59
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No, this part of the pipe cleans itself quickly. When I made drastic changes I would listen and feel the response from the engine. Very lean is pretty obvious. After an hour or so of riding I pulled and inspected the pipe. In my racing career I have done hundreds of plug checks, but always on 100% race gas. Pump gas has too many additives to give accurate readings. Unlike a fouled plug which can not be used again, the pipe "cleans up" quite nicely...jess like my redneck wife!
 

canyncarvr

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Oct 14, 1999
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Seeing as plug color has pretty much nothing to do with air/fuel mixture, I doubt that pipe color does either. I'm not saying I know better, cuz I don't. I'm only 99 44/100% sure...and this not being a soap commercial, I'll not say 'I know'. ;)

But you have a good time looking!!
 

BRYDEN1

Member
Sep 22, 2003
97
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I also have no experience with this, but this most likely has a relationship with reading the burn on the piston. Next spring when I rejet for new winter mods I'll definetly check the pipe and compare it to the carbon ring out off curiosity.My new plug viewer will have to wait untill spring to be put to use as most of my trails are already snowed in. Thanks for the heads up. :cool:
 

bradf

Member
Jan 26, 2004
59
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"The way to approach jet selection is to jet the main FIRST, and the only way that is reliably done is with a WOT plug chop with a consequential plug color check. "

I got this quote from...Canyncarvr

Plug color, base to midway up on the ceramic, is one of the best ways to determine jetting (air/fuel ratio). What you see on the ceramic is what you will see inside the pipe. Please explain.
 

canyncarvr

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Oct 14, 1999
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Yeah...he also said:


...which by the way came from HERE.

He's an idiot (I've met him), an intellectual maroon....consider the source and all.

What's the link to your quote? I may well have outtyped my brain someplace......
 

bradf

Member
Jan 26, 2004
59
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Hey, I put a lot of trust in your posts. From what I have read and researched you are generally, if not always, very accurate. I saw this pipe reading technique used by a couple of mechanics at Washougle this summer. I tried it and it works very well. My local dealer mechanic has done this for years as well.
 

canyncarvr

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Oct 14, 1999
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I actually found it! Thanks for listing it!! (Thass'a joke, son!)

It's HERE.

..post 38, page 4.

I'd limited seaches to a year.... it was further back than that.

The 'main first' is my opinion. I know others jet differently.

The 'color' part is complete misspeak.

Thanks for pointing it out...I've edited it to reflect the correct way to do it..leaving the original in so it all should make sense to you.

Good thing you found that thread..........and not the other pages of threads that say the right way to do it!

They other threads may have given you pause......but, hey! You can take your pipe off and check its color any time you wish!

Cheers!
 

muddy226

Sponsoring Member
Sep 14, 2003
271
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I don't wish to enter into an argument about jetting as I don't feel qualified, but I have assiduously read most of the jetting posts in here for some time in search of enlightenment, and the conclusion which would be drawn is that the only way is to study the carbon ring at the base of the insulation. However, I don't have a plug viewer or even one of those little things the doctor uses to look in my ears, and I don't particularly want to start doing one plug chop followed by a plug saw, so I tend to go on the ride and feel backed up by observation of the colour of the insulation/plug tip. This method of checking air/fuel mixture by observing the colour here has been recommended for generations by various engineers, manufacturers etc., and has been satisfactory, so what has changed ? It works for all sorts of i/c engines, and in my experience is reliable, e.g if I get a chainsaw running just right and then check the colour later it will be light tan, the same goes for lawnmowers and most other things I can think of. Recently I have had jetting problems with my bike, which started when the cylinder had to be replated and a new Wiseco installed, the bike ran very weak with detonation and overheating. The plug was not quite white, but was a very light grey. I then put Boyeson rad valve back in, and the bike ran rich. On checking the plug it was black. After a little more playing with the jetting the motor was running how I wanted, and seemed clean and crisp, although not perfect. On checking the plug again it was a tan colour, and my past experience would suggest that if the colour was a slightly lighter tan the motor would run as well as it could. Can all of this just be coincidence ? Am I likely to do any damage or suffer from poorer performance if I carry on as I always have, or what are the factors which I should consider when using this method ? Am I correct in assuming that the main risk I run in using this method is running a bit too rich, i.e the tip and insulator nose is the right colour but the darkness is too far up from the bottom ? Sorry about the long post but I would prefer to keep using my old method unless there are good reasons not to.
 

canyncarvr

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Oct 14, 1999
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I base my opinion largely from what I've read from others that are far more educated and knowledgeable about the situation than I am. BTW, it also makes perfect sense to me...so I may give it more credence than I otherwise would.

It's not canyncarvr's erudition and learnin' that came up with the mixture ring idea. I'm merely referring to things I (think I..) have learned over the years.

Call it parroting others' point of view if you like.

I know pi is the ratio of a circle's radius to its circumference, too. It's something I've learned.

Maybe that is parroting someone else's point of view, too?

The color of the insulator is not completely unrelated to proper A/F mixture. If the mixture is too lean, the cylinder will be too hot, and that heat will be evident on the insulator...if not sparkly bits and/or the grey ash of death (vaporized aluminum).

In that case, it's the improper mixture that brought about the color...but the color was caused by heat.

In a well tuned engine with a properly set A/F mixture, properly cooled with 'good' fuel, no weird additives and the proper heat range plug, the plug WILL be a nice color.

...but it's NOT the color that indicates A/F mixture!

Any engine that is not running a 'correct' A/F mixture will not run as well as it could (too rich) or possibly be damaged (too lean).

But...you can look at your pipe OR the color of your plug as many times as you like, it won't bother me none!
 
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muddy226

Sponsoring Member
Sep 14, 2003
271
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Ah, thanks for that. I hadn't actually considered that the colour is temperature dependent, but should have. I can now see that running a plug with incorrect heat range could easily be misleading when relied on for jetting. I think I will stick to seat of the pants jetting from now on.
 

bradf

Member
Jan 26, 2004
59
0
This post was not intended to state that the pipe check was the definitive A/F technique. I just past on info that I tried and it proved itself. The difference of the 2-stroke combustion through the exhaust port rather than the 4-stroke combustion being contained before the exhaust valve opens, lends itself to this type of pipe check. When I saw the team Suzuki mech looking inside the pipe I thought it was for damage, then I saw it again from two privateers. One told me it was shown to him years ago when he raced small hydro planes, it was just nice to know that he was as lean as possible with the trace of ash. So I asked questions and this is what I learned.
 

bradf

Member
Jan 26, 2004
59
0
More clarification:
A perfectly jetted 2-stroke will have a "clean ring" at 2 1/2 inches from the piston. It will be perfectly clean. The location of this ring is "definitive" for determining proper jetting. It is the distance that the completed combustion traveled away from the cylinder. If it is short (less than 2 1/2"), it is lean, if it is long (more than 2 1/2") it is rich. Plug checks are the definitive check for a 4-stroke as all the combustion is complete before leaving the cylinder.
 

muddy226

Sponsoring Member
Sep 14, 2003
271
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Thanks bradf, that sounds really good and I'll try it next time. Its amazing what you can learn on here when you thought you already knew it !
 
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