Pre-Mix Oil

[CR 250 MXer]

What is the best pre-mix oil for my CR 250? I have been running Honda brand synthetic racing oil. Is there a better option from an aftermarket company? Ams Oil, Bell Ray, Torco ... etc. I'm looking for the best lubrication for longet engine life. Thanks.

 

[MXP1MP]

hey thats a good oil don't knock it, its just as good as anything else. I personally use Klotz super techniplate its 80% synthic 20% castor oil. I like it cause it smells good :) I'm suprized at how clean it burns with having that castor blend in it.

 

[ride_red_15]

i just switched from Silkoline to Bell Ray...it seems like it burns cleaner and isnt as rich

 

[Senior KX Rider]

I have run Yamalube 2-R with excellent results and run Mobil MX2T with the same great results These are the two best in my book:cool:

 

[KDX220rm]

I agree with SeniorKX,

I used Yamalube 2R for 4 years and switched to a full synthetic Mobil-1 MX2T and its more reasonable in price too.

 

[CR 250 MXer]

Does anyone have any opinions about Ams Oil? How is the price also?
How does the price of Mobil-1 sinthetic compare to the Honda brand oil? And is it just as good or better?

 

[TOTALL]

I'VE BEEN RUNNING AMSOIL SERIES 2000 RACING OIL FOR TWO YEARS NO PROBLEMS ALMOST NO CARBON BUILT UP ON POWER VALVE.MIXED AT 50/1. I PAY 27.00 A GALLON

 

[Jaybird]

I haven't found any (quality) 2-stroke oil that can compare in price with Mobil MX2T. ($3.50 a pop at AutoZone)

After a year of riding with MX2T, my power valves were a bit oily (a good thing in my book) and not gummed up at all. Also, I got approx. 50 hours (more hours than I imagined) of good riding in before I got compression readings that would warrant a top end change. My jug and piston were still way within spec and the only thing I saw on my piston was a slight bit of blow-by on the exhaust side. I'm sticking with MX2t.
(26.5:1)

 

[DKT735]

Long life on a top end.

For my money the path to getting the most out life out of your engine has nothing to do with oil. Keep your air filter clean and do the best you can to keep dirt out of your motor. Change your air filter before it gets filthy. Check the seal after you install a clean filter. Make sure your bike doesn't have any air leaks (keep your carb clamps tight.) Learn how to jet your bike. Try not to run any water through your bike. Be smart if you start drilling holes in the airbox to get more air in the airbox. I've seen more than one bike with large holes in the air box covered with screen run through a water hole and drown out the bike. When this happens, the water not only washes the oil off the piston and cylinder but also brings a ton of dirt with it.

Just my two cents.

 

[sharp7277]

I run Yamalube at 40:1 on my CR 500, I always felt its the most safe oil to run cause it been around so long. (just my opinion)

 

[sharp7277]

DKT735 is right though, keeping dirt out of your motor is the key to long life. A good clean and sealed air filter is the way to long motor life

 

[Jaybird]

Don't kid yourself, proper oil mixture plays an important role as well. Even with a pristine clean filter, one can screw up a cylinder and piston in no time without proper lubrication.

 

[xler8250]

Motul 800 2T works great for me. After a top end rebuild I noticed a lot less carbon build up. I use to run Bel-Ray prior to that.

 

[DKT735]

I'm not saying lubrication is not important. The oils sold by the major manufacturers will all more than likely do the job of lubrication.

Ask mechanics what ruins motors the most and my guess is that dirt in the motor and failing to follow maintenance schedules are the major reasons.

Lubrication related failures happen but probably happen when an engine or oil is pushed near the edge of its working envelope.

Lets hear some feedback from the working mechanics. Based on your experience, what causes the most engine failures?

 

[Gyrros]

Motul 800T, best suff I have used.

 

[RomKX5]

I'm not a certified mech, but both top end lubrication and keeping dirt out of the carb are very important. People will recommend everything out there, so I recommend you try some of the oils out there and see which you and your bike likes best. I have used Kawasaki oil, Motul 800, and Mobil 1 MX2T. They all seemed to work fine but I stuck with MX2T cuz of exactly what senior KX rider and Jaybird say, the cost $3.50 at the Autozone (they're everywhere) compared to $4.99 for everything else only available at the cycle shops (nearest shop is about 10 miles away) plus it's fully synthetic. I also liked Motul 800 but can't afford it :) Good luck with the oil you choose and keep that air filter clean and properly sealed.

 

[77irish77]

i would stay away from maxima k2 (any maxima product in m opinion).. but i have used redline which i liked quite a bit and have recently been using motorex which in my opinion is probably some of the best oil you can get in the US besides motul products which aare quite good as well

 

[bwalker]

i would stay away from maxima k2 (any maxima product in m opinion).. but i have used redline which i liked quite a bit and

Thats funny. I have heard quit a few good comments about Maxima products and have had negative personel expiereance with redline two stroke oil so i would have to disagree with you. Redline has substandard corrosion protection and corrodes almost anything it comes in contact with, but burns very clean in a high strung motor. It does spooge a bit in less stressful applications though.

 

[MX-727]

I've had good luck with Maxima K2 in my bike, but the wife doesn't seem to run her bike very hard, which leads to a bit of spooge. The bike is jetted just about perfect and when I ride her 125, I don't have that problem. Yamalube 2R worked better for her, and I'm in the process of switching to MX2T for all the bikes.

 

[spl170_btc]

I think a lot of this depends on what kind of fuel you are using. Normal pump gas vs. race fuel. Also I was told that different types and brands of mix will require you to change your jetting a little bit.