proper break-in for new rings?

[2-strokes-4-life]

i just replaced the rings on my cr60 piston yesterday and will be firing it up for the first time today.what would be the proper way to break in the new rings? i wont be able to ride it today but want to fire it up to make sure everything sounds good. i only plan on running it for a few minutes today.i will be running 93 pump with bel-ray h1r mixed at 20:1 does that sound ok? thanks for any input

 

[wornknobby]

yea, you usually mix alittlr richer when breaking new engine parts in b/c of the in creased heat from friction. just give a few heat cycles, and you should be good. don't hold the throttle at a constant rpm for a period of time though.

 

[darringer]

Actually, you should NOT richen the oil content of the fuel. This just leans out the carburetor over the entire range, and possibly could seize while breaking in. Just use your normal ratio, and run the engine under about 2/3 throttle on level ground for about 30 minutes or so.

 

[SirHilton17]

yea.. keep the same oil mixture you usually use.. with just a new ring, you really dont have to take it easy on it, but just do what darringer said, make sure to let the bike warm up before riding

 

[Chokey]

If all you did was replace the ring, you don't need to break it in. Start it up, warm it up, and go ride.

 

[2-strokes-4-life]

thanks for your replys everyone.i got it running earlier this afternoon and it sounds great.i was not able to ride it but i did let it run for two five minute periods letting it cool down between each.so it sounds like all i really need to do is take it easy for the first 30 min or so than i am good to go?just want to be sure,thanks again :)

 

[SirHilton17]

yea... just no long periods of full throttle

 

[Chokey]

Why do you guys think he needs to do something special to break in a new ring? If he put in a new forged piston, it would require heat-cycles. But a new ring will seat in a couple of minutes, and then it's good to go. No need for heat cycles or any period of gentle use. In fact, full-throttle will seat the ring more quickly.

 

[jumpingjoe628]

Proper break in

Why do you guys think he needs to do something special to break in a new ring? If he put in a new forged piston, it would require heat-cycles. But a new ring will seat in a couple of minutes, and then it's good to go. No need for heat cycles or any period of gentle use. In fact, full-throttle will seat the ring more quickly.

Most people seem to operate on the philosophy that they can best get their money's worth from any mechanical device by treating it with great care. This is probably true, but in many cases it is necessary to interpret what great care really means.
For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinder and rehoning the wall. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.
You must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again

 

[jumpingjoe628]

here ya go. http://firebladers.bikenet.gr/articles/maintenance/break_in_procedures.html

 

[SirHilton17]

When the cross hatchings wear away, or get filled with glaze the ring break in process does not stop... it just slows down...
its like using 100grit sandpaper to sand a chunk of aluminum, compared with 1000grit... both will wear, and "seat" but the one that went slower will have a nicer finsih...
but that has nothing to do with a engine... well it does somewhat...

now days everything is perfected... the deepness of the crosh hatchings, the angle, the way the cyl is honed... that is why people can get away with out gradually breaking something in... by riding it normal you will get more power quicker than by slowly breaking it in....

Look at pistons from in the 70's... run the engine for 2 hours, pull the piston... you can just see the imperfections that are working their way out... where as now days every thing is damn near perfect...