questions about kdx 220r

Jul 25, 2005
171
0
I am 15 years old and looking for an fmf pipe. I want to know which one would be the best for me desert or woods. my 220 has great low end and I want to increase top and mid without getting thrown off the bike.I only do trail riding so keep that in mind.also have any of you tried the torque ring and does it help down low. what jetting do you use when you install the new pipe and remove or modify the airbox. I have also noticed a big whurring noise when I go up steep hills on the trail and the bike is overheating. what is the best coolant.any help would be appreciated.
 

Feanor

Member
Aug 10, 2004
144
0
You'll no doubt get quite a few "use the search function" replies to you post, but I'm waiting for a backup process to complete so I'll jump in LoL!

The porting for the 220 is different than the 200, so don't use the various pipes and what they do for the 200 as a baseline for your 220... The Desert "Rev" pipe for the 220 bumps up power all through the band, not just up top... Though increase is "weighted" more toward the top. The effect you get down low manifests itself more as throttle response. On the other side, the Woods pipe for the 220 increases torque down low and actually does take something off the top end to get that...

I went with the Rev pipe as I wanted more top end, and the little bit more bottom end I got with it was basically a bonus because the 220 climbs like a tractor anyway. You won't be blasting up the hillclimbs like a CRF450, but you won't be turning back down either.

One thing the Rev pipe does that makes it most noticeable from stock is that you get a much more defined "hit" in the midrange. But that only takes a little while to get used to, and is not dangerous by any means, just vastly different from stock, and dare I say it, fun :)

If you're doing mainly trail riding, I would get the Woods pipe definitely... the increase in low end torque will make the already-easy-to-ride bike, even more easy to ride... If you spent a percentage of time above 4th gear, then I would get the Rev pipe... Why did you say you wanted to increase top-end if you are riding mainly trails? Unless you hit many steeper hill climb situations where your pinned in 2nd?

If you go with the Woods pipe, the torque ring is not necessary and most of the people I have read or talked to have said they could feel no difference.

If the bike is overheating, before you run out and look for ways to bandaid it (using water wetting additives etc) try to identify why the bike is overheating in the first place... I've had my bike at Pismo beach and spent literally 2 hours pinned in 2nd and 3rd gear (no sand paddles) just playing around throwing sand roost and practicing circles, turns, etc and the bike was never going over 15-20mph (perfect recipe for overheating: hot day, high rpm, low bike speed) and still no overheating problems. So if you're bike is overheating after a few short climbs on the trail, something is up...

Check your radiator fins for damage/blockage, coolant level, reservoir level, impeller condition... stuff like that.

I run with a modified airbox lid (enlarged opening where the snorkle went), Boyesen Rad valve, and am currently using a 40 pilot and 142 main, and am still running on the rich side (which is one of the main reasons I think I have no overheating problems riding on the dunes)

Reference process is that a RAD valve with power reeds means you might need to go 2-4 sizes leaner on the main jet, and the rev pipe recommendation is to go one fatter, but doing plug readings and working with throttle response are the only ways to really optimize it. Just err on the rich side...

Good luck!

Feanor
 
Jul 25, 2005
171
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i'm thinking a rev pipe with reduced gearing of 12/49 and a torque ring might do it with a 145main and a 42pilot. I think that might work for trail riding
 
May 26, 2005
105
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You'll end up leaner than that by the time your done. I have the EXACT same setup as feanor on my bike and I mean exact all the way down to the jetting and yes even mine is still a little rich. I went with a 13/50 gear and I can wheelie at will in 1st thru 3rd with just the snap of the wrist. No clutch needed :) You gearing will be ultra low with a 12 tooth countershaft. 1 tooth on the front is = to 3 teeth in the rear. With the 13/50 combo I ended up needing a 110 link chain just for reference.
 

kanrandy

Member
Apr 26, 2003
9
0
:bang: We have 2 KDX 220's. Mine has the gnarly pipe and my son's is stock. The gnarly pipe made a big difference in the mid range and also opened it up on top. Stock- the bike has no top end. I like the gnarly but I have no experience with the desert pipe.
 
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