RB carb mod temp and elev tolerance questions

I have the stock carb and do not have JDs jetting guide, but by my seat of the pants experience I'd be thinking 1 main jet size for the temp change and 1 main jet size for the elevation change. That's a conservative estimate. You may need to drop 1 size beyond this. Your bike will let you know. The spooge will increase and the bike will act rich when you make slight throttle decreases when under a load. It's hard to explain, but it'll kind of cut out slightly when getting off of the throttle. The air screw, I'm sure, will need to be leaned a little, but that's a big deal on the RB carb and since I don't have one I can't help you there.

I know that's not a very hi-tech answer, but I'm kind of a seat of the pants guy when it comes to jetting. I just stick two or three leaner jets in my fanny pack and change them as the bike tells me I need to.

I do have the RB modded carb. Well, not the oem pwk but an airstryker (for the sake of reference).

What you list as ranges won't have you changing any brass at all. The airscrew on one of Ron's modified carbs makes a much larger change than it does in the oem configuration.

Do yourself a favor. Have Ron put in one of his finger-adjustable airscrews. Yep...it's another $20, but it's a great timesaver when it comes to tweaking the airscrew on the trail. Heck, you can tune it while you're riding!

This is not to say that you won't notice a difference in performance. It won't be a whole lot of one, though. A common scenario for a ride 'round here would easily see 40º temp changes and close to 4000'el. change, too. If you're picky enough to want to keep everything ship-shape, you would want a jet change of maybe a size or two during that ride. The airscrew will do a good job of keeping your bike running well though. Consider jetting to be perfect all the time and you will still be able to tell differences in performance with air density/elevation changes you're dealing with.

Cheers!

BTW..the reference to 'head shave' is curious. It's much more important to correctly modify the squish band than it is to simply remove metal from the head/cylinder surfaces. Ron does head modifications, too.

I've got a 220 with the airstryker and ride temp changes of about 30 to 35 degrees some days and elevation changes of 2 to 3 thousand feet. To date, once I had set up the carb brass, I have not had to adjust anything. Oh, sure, I could play with my fancy thumbwheel air screw I paid RB for, but I'm content with all the power I have, that I usually just leave it alone. I've jetted so it is right on at my highest elevation and warmest temperature so that I will be slightly rich everywhere else. That way I don't need to worry about being too lean at anytime.
With this setup, seat-of-the-pants tells me there isn't enough difference in power to concern myself with.
Checking spooge and engine temp. is my usual method of determining if I am running too rich or starting to get a little lean.

skipro3, Don't you mean that you jet it for your LOWEST elevation and COOLEST temperature so that it will be a little rich everywhere else?

It's true....I'm not so bright.
I'm jetted for my lowest riding elevation: 1800 ft. and coolest riding temp at that elevation: 45 F. (gets colder but then I go ski)
Then when I ride higher and warmer conditions, it gets rich, sure, but it isn't much.
Also, I use race gas and can jet very tight at this elevation: 140 (142 maybe, I can't remember) main, CEK on leanest clip and pilot of 35. Most folks I have read on here don't jet this lean at any elevation.
One last note: My head was reshaped and volume reduced to work well with race gas. California pump gas is too unpredictable between fillups to jet reliably so I desided to take advantage of that by getting the head reworked by RB. I'm sure it is the characteristics of this fuel (VP C-12) that gets my jetting as lean as it is. Now spooge on the tail pipe is only a thin layer of dark ash after a 50 mile ride with only a very slight increase at higher / warmer conditions.
Engine temps vary between 197 F and 205 F.

Skipro, how do you measure your engine temps? Is there a way to do it on the fly?