Did you ever concider riding in a lower gear and feathering the clutch for breaking?Joburble said:No it's not an isolated problem.
See Touchy Rear Brake The only way I could use it effectively was to have the gas on fighting the rear brake and that gave it some feel. Had to do that a couple of times, yes it's a brutal thing to do, but I did need to stop.
Hi ridejunky, no I hadn't considered that because that would effectively be using my clutch as the brake and that would ultimately end up expensive, especially when my brakes are supposed to be doing the job. I think the problem is the OEM Nissin brake pads on the H model 200 / 220's but not everyone has the problem. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the disk nor with the hydraulics so that really only leaves the pads, so that's where I am starting. It's not pilot error either as I swaped bikes with a friend who also has a 200 and he couldn't believe how bad the problem was. While I rode his 200 I had no problem at all. Thanks for the suggestion.ridejunky said:Did you ever concider riding in a lower gear and feathering the clutch for breaking?
I don't experience these breaking problems unless my boots are new but then again I don't use the rear break as much as engine breaking
mudpack said:A thought just occured to me on this issue; you aren't getting chain lube on the rotor are your??
ridejunky said:Did you ever concider riding in a lower gear and feathering the clutch for breaking?
I don't experience these breaking problems unless my boots are new but then again I don't use the rear break as much as engine breaking
reepicheep said:Interesting. The complaints about Buells are always that the back brake isn't strong enough. It always seemed perfect to me though, the last thing I want is to lock that thing up.
Never noticed the problem on the KDX. I'm running really cheap pads as well, which seem to work fine.
It's ultimately just hydraulics, so if you were to change the stroke of the master cylinder to a shorter stroke with a wider piston, then you would have a shorter travel, but require more force (which I think is what you want). A narrower piston with a longer stroke would be the opposite, and travel further but require less force to lock.
So maybe you can just mix and match another bikes master cylinder for the rear brake. Probably easy enough to fabricate a mount for it.
For that matter, maybe you could just shorten the brake lever. That would require more force and give less travel, probably a win/win given your goals.
I just went and checked the Nissin pads I took out and they are like stone! I even tried to push a screwdriver into the face of them (I can't see me using them again anyway) and it barely made a mark.sr5bidder said:I would think his pads have softened.. and a new pad would be harder and be less grabby.
ridejunky said:I'm over 200lbs
reepicheep said:Auto clutch, then the left hand clutch lever becomes a rear brake? That'd be easy enough... Not to mention entertaining every time you handed somebody the bike to try. ;)
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