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General Moto | Off-Topic Posts
Rear end of frame slightly bent
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[QUOTE="Porkchop, post: 1378691, member: 22923"] [b]If it was easy, every one would do it.....[/b] If it's made of aluminum, here's the list of several methods. If it's made of steel, disregard all of the heat related procedures & do what ever is necessary to get it back in good shape. Assuming it's aluminum, the hoop over the wheel well should be partially annealed due to how deformed it is, prior to reforming back to original shape. Remove the paint on the hoop first. Annealing is done by using a pure acetylene flame to blacken the hoop & the rear of the tubes only. Then adjusting the oxygen on the torch to a neutral flame & warming the hoop carefully from the center out until the black soot clears up. This happens between 700-800 degrees f. caution, do not over heat, do not stop the flame from moving continuously whilst heating , a waving motion works best for this. As soon as the soot starts to clear up, move on , do not dwell on any one place, or hold the end of the flame to close to the work piece. Stop when progress has been made to about 1/2 " from the welds on the seat rest tubes. On some bent parts, only the severe bend it's self, need be annealed. Allow to cool slowly. Some improvised but simple tools are a big help for doing the job of straightening & reforming & are easy to make. A body working hammer dolly is good for the seat\wheel well hoop. A strong back or strong steel table is good for clamping the sections of tube needing straightening. I use a block of maple with a vee cut on the end(push block) & a hammer for shocking the part where needed, in the direction needed. I use other maple blocks, stacked & clamped as required for support when clamping prior to shocking with hammer & push block. Avoid striking any tube directly with a hammer, hit the push block with the hammer with the push block on the tube. To straighten a twisted sub-frame, strip all parts off, then with it bolted to the chassis, use a long lever (2"x4"x6' works well) to torque it back as needed. Hammer, preload with clamps & shock as needed until original shape is obtained. Do not anneal any tubes, connection points, or welded junctures. Re-aging can be started by placing entire part in a oven set at 400 f for 1 hour duration, then allowing to cool to room temp slowly (wrap in heat blanket), wait 3 days before part goes back into service, Or pack in dry ice for 24 hours after a day at room temp.(temper #'s on aluminum range from 0 to 8, 0 being soft, 8 being hard, these directions will yield between #3&4 temper). On some parts I do this several times, ( new pieces, not sub frames) it toughens the material. As always, safe practices must be followed in all this & caution must be taken seriously. It is always best to have a professional welder-fabricator do this, but for the do it your selfer, there it is. If any or part of the heating or re-aging/ tempering procedures are omitted or deviated from, scrap is the result, or the part will be too soft & bend easily.( more scrap) I express or imply absolutely no guarantees on any of this info. A word to the wise, You be your own judge, A small to moderate repair, fix it. A moderate to mangled repair, expend Ben Franklins on a new one.... :think: Patman, you requested this..... always happy to share, PC. OL 89'R's recommendation of using a temp-stick is excellent advise, once again ,"cheap insurance". Also, for the first timers that have the guts to try doing any of this, practice on a piece of scrap 6061-t6 or 5052-t4 aluminum, prior to attempting a repair on your frame. If a decision is made to buy a replacement, consider a part made of titanium, yes the cost is more but it's way more durable than aluminum, lighter than steel & 4 times stronger than steel & includes some major bragging rights. (if you're a crasher like me the more durable part is a priority). [/QUOTE]
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MX, SX & Off-Road Discussions
General Moto | Off-Topic Posts
Rear end of frame slightly bent
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