Rear Wheel Bearings

Y

YBOT_US

Member

Jun 13, 2000

15

0

• Oct 8, 2001

• #1

:silly: I removed my rear wheel to clean my hubs and to inspect my bearings. The right side bearing popped out easily....

but the left side bearing won't move. I even used a steel bar and
large hammer...but the bearing wouldn't even move at all.

Any suggestions, Has any one else had this problem

 

K

KDXfile

~SPONSOR~

Dec 6, 1999

366

0

• Oct 8, 2001

• #2

What kind of bike? On my GasGas, one side has a circlip holding the bearing and the other doesn't. Check it close for that. I didn't see it when I went to change mine and drove the bearing out in pieces leaving the outer race still installed behind the circlip and it was hard as heck to get it out after that.
Also, you may try heating the hub some with a propane torch before knocking it out.

 

Y

YBOT_US

Member

Jun 13, 2000

15

0

• Oct 8, 2001

• Thread starter
• #3

My bike is a 2000 250 EXC...

I sure don't see a clip or anything that would keep the bearings from coming out.

Unless, theres a clip beneath the housing???

 

G

Garyb

Member

Jul 20, 2000

211

0

• Oct 8, 2001

• #4

There is a clip ...I did the same with my 300 exc (same wheel)
Its on the outside

 

M

mknight

Member

Jun 14, 2000

63

0

• Oct 8, 2001

• #5

As mentioned, "Yes" there is a circlip on the sprocket side I believe (I always seem to forget which side...even though I just redid my bearing/seals/spacers two weeks ago). You won't be able to get the bearing out until the circlip is removed. If you are not re-using the seals, pop it up and you will be able to see the circlip. I got mine out with some needle-nose pliers although a good pair of circlip pliers will work much better.

 

Y

YBOT_US

Member

Jun 13, 2000

15

0

• Oct 8, 2001

• Thread starter
• #6

:eek: No wonder it wouldn't come out..

Hope, I didn't damage anything while beating the $hit out of the bearings.

Again, thanks fellow riders.

Rob

 

W

Wanker

Member

Jun 8, 2000

38

0

• Oct 8, 2001

• #7

Re-Installing Bearings

Judging by your posts I'm guessing you are on a journey of discovery as you replace the rear wheel bearings on this bike for the first time. It is a journey fraught with mechanical peril.
Yes, there is a circlip holding in the bearings on one side. No, I don't remember which side. MOST importantly, remember to reinstall the bearing with the circlip FIRST and seat it firmly before reinstalling the circlip. Next put the inner spacer ( ~4" piece of pipe ) into the hub and line it up with the inner race of the already installed bearing. Now install the second bearing and only drive it to the point where the inner race is pressing firmly against the spacer ( pipe ). DO NOT drive the outer race down as deep as you can since the hub has no shoulder in it for the bearing to sit against.

I learned the hard way.:think

 

C

colorado-high

Member

Jul 4, 2000

100

0

• Oct 8, 2001

• #8

To keep your wheel bearings from failing premature make sure you adjust the chain properly.You need to adjust the slack with the rear end weighted. The swing arm needs to be parrallel with the ground.Then make your adjustment

 

jeb

Member

Jul 21, 1999

633

0

• Oct 10, 2001

• #9

Good advice, Wanker. Also, pop the seals off the bearings and force some good waterproof grease in. You can clean them before doing that if they're gunky. If you haven't done so already, you should replace the spacers with ones from WER that have a steel shoulder for the seal to ride on or ones from erider that are coated. They will save you money in the long run.

 

R

ripin520

Member

Jan 15, 2001

30

0

• Oct 10, 2001

• #10

:think Does anyone have the #'s off the bearings both front and rear for 01' exc. I'd like to order or pick up a set for future use at my local bearing company. I don't want to beat them out and have them tell me they don't have them in stock thus be left with a disassembled bike for a week.:(

 

W

Wanker

Member

Jun 8, 2000

38

0

• Oct 11, 2001

• #11

Bearing Stuff

I order my bearings online from http://www.emersonbearing.com They offer four brands of varying cost/quality, they also carry all the seals, and they ship out quick. Granted, all the bearings and seals for my 99 300EXC are stock of the shelf parts so that makes it easy. If you have the parts manual supplied with the bike all the standard bearing part numbers and seals are in there. I think the minimum order is $25 so I just order complete sets front and rear. I suspect there are other online bearing stores...I just haven't found them.
Another trick which I haven't tried but know those who have......
Drill a hole in the hub and install a grease fitting. Remove the inner seal from the bearings and pump the hub full of a good waterprof grease until it oozes past the outer seals. after each ride give the fitting a few pumps with the grease gun until no water comes out. One of my more gorilla-like riding buddies has been on the same set of wheels bearings for 6 years using this trick. It has worked for him.

 

J

johnpace2

~SPONSOR~

Dec 5, 2000

76

0

• Oct 11, 2001

• #12

Regarding chain adjustment, what would be the easiest way to get the swingarm parallel to the ground?

Should I just disconnect the lower shock bolt?

How much slack should the chain have when the swingarm is parallel?

If I recall, the manual shows the bike on a stand when refering to the chain adjustment and says nothing about weighting the rear end.

Help, I'm confused!

Thanks!

 

M

mknight

Member

Jun 14, 2000

63

0

• Oct 11, 2001

• #13

Originally posted by johnpace2
Regarding chain adjustment, what would be the easiest way to get the swingarm parallel to the ground?

Should I just disconnect the lower shock bolt?

How much slack should the chain have when the swingarm is parallel?

If I recall, the manual shows the bike on a stand when refering to the chain adjustment and says nothing about weighting the rear end.

Help, I'm confused!

Thanks!

Click to expand...

I've heard of people using a couple of tie-downs looped around the rear of the seat and the swingarm and them pulled tight until the swingarm is parallel. Another method I have used is to sit on the bike backwards, lean over and grab each side of the swingarm and pull up, compressing the suspension. The tie down method sounds easier, but I haven't tried it yet.

 

R

ripin520

Member

Jan 15, 2001

30

0

• Oct 11, 2001

• #14

Re: Bearing Stuff

Originally posted by Wanker
I order my bearings online from http://www.emersonbearing.com If you have the parts manual supplied with the bike all the standard bearing part numbers and seals are in there

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link Wanker, didn't even think of the parts book .....Duuuhh!! I haven't had to use it yet so plum forgot all about it.

Just so others know; set of front & rear bearings plus dust seals $50 incl delivery.

 

Last edited: Oct 11, 2001

M

mknight

Member

Jun 14, 2000

63

0

• Oct 11, 2001

• #15

Re: Re: Bearing Stuff

Originally posted by ripin520

Just so others know; set of front & rear bearings plus dust seals $50 incl delivery.

Click to expand...

I just got a complete set of bearings, seals, and spacers from enduro engineering for $45.00. I don't know if the bearing quality is comparable. E-rider (link on left of page) has a similar package but it is a little more.

If you go to enduo engineering's website check out Michael Lafferty's "Fun Mover" KTM motorhome that is for sale. I just saw it......too bad I don't have $38K sitting around :D

 

R

ripin520

Member

Jan 15, 2001

30

0

• Oct 11, 2001

• #16

Instant factory look just add 38K. ;)
38K is probly a great deal for it and what a sweet ride.
Imagine pulling up to the race site on sunday in that rig...