My forks on my 94 kdx 200 are leaking. I guess they need new seals. Around my area they charge $100 to rebuild forks. Is it worth it to do it myself? Is it even possible? (I'm kinda new to dirtbikes and never taken forks apart.) What ae all the parts i would need?
rebuilding forks
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canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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It's always worth it to do it yourself. Chances are you will end up with a better job anyway. I've never had anyone work on any vehicle/gear of mine that something wasn't screwed up. That's not to say I've never done that myself, too...but the warranty on your own work is usually better than the shop 'cross town! (Hopefully).
Seals and sliders will cost some..maybe $20-40 depending on which brand and where you get them. Some of the tools you will need will cost a good bit. A seal driver (motion pro..check rockymountainmc for what you need) is spendy, but you'll use it next time and the time after that.
You can do without that...make up yur own tool with some pvc and some time. My choice was the motion pro piece.
On the 'H' model, you need the socket (a 14mm allen actually) to take the valve out of the bottom. Don't know if the '94 is/is not close to that. That valve will be tough to get out (likely) if you don't have an impact tool to hit it hard/fast with. Hey...that means you have to buy another tool to do the job!! Get yourself a battery operated impact for a few bucks!!
I see tools in your future. YeeHAw!! ;)
Have fun!!
Seals and sliders will cost some..maybe $20-40 depending on which brand and where you get them. Some of the tools you will need will cost a good bit. A seal driver (motion pro..check rockymountainmc for what you need) is spendy, but you'll use it next time and the time after that.
You can do without that...make up yur own tool with some pvc and some time. My choice was the motion pro piece.
On the 'H' model, you need the socket (a 14mm allen actually) to take the valve out of the bottom. Don't know if the '94 is/is not close to that. That valve will be tough to get out (likely) if you don't have an impact tool to hit it hard/fast with. Hey...that means you have to buy another tool to do the job!! Get yourself a battery operated impact for a few bucks!!
I see tools in your future. YeeHAw!! ;)
Have fun!!
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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...still need a seal driver....
Although it seems that around '94 is when they were upside down for a year or two? I never bothered remembering that cuz it isn't pertinent to me!
Buykawi shows them to be downside up. Well, I think.........
Although it seems that around '94 is when they were upside down for a year or two? I never bothered remembering that cuz it isn't pertinent to me!
Buykawi shows them to be downside up. Well, I think.........
Skinny tube on the bottom is an upside down fork. I just use the OEM parts. First thing you should buy, if you don't already have it, is the Kawasaki shop manual. Shouldn't set you back more than $25 or so if the prices are similar between manuals. It'll have drawings and instructions for the process. It'll tell youwhat parts are deemed as wear/replacement items and what should be checked. If your forks haven't been apart in awhile, I'd bet seals, bushings, springs, wipers, fluid, and o-rings though an inspection will tell you for sure. Since they're leaking, look at the slider and make sure that there aren't any nicks in the tube because they'll cut a new seal. If there are, and they aren't bad, some emery cloth will fix that.
Best,
Greg
Best,
Greg
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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Options? You mean where to get them? Do some shopping. Call your local bike shops and such.
Attached is a drawing from buykawasaki.com. The blue box includes most of the stuff you'd likely use. Consider there are a number of o-rings and such in other places that, if damaged, certainly would need to, SHOULD be replaced.
Just a thought....if you are not aware of the differences between a conventional cartridge fork and an USD fork, it might be worth the $100 to have someone take care of it for you.
If you're a good wrench and can intuitively take mechanical things apart and put'm back together again, go for it.
If it would seem to you that the fork clamps need to be tighter cuz there is still space there have 'joe' do it at your local shop. About the time you strip a clamp, you're going to wonder about the wisdom of tackling the whole process.
Let alone have it leak when you're all done 'cuz you used a hammer and a drift to 'seat' the seals.......
Attached is a drawing from buykawasaki.com. The blue box includes most of the stuff you'd likely use. Consider there are a number of o-rings and such in other places that, if damaged, certainly would need to, SHOULD be replaced.
Just a thought....if you are not aware of the differences between a conventional cartridge fork and an USD fork, it might be worth the $100 to have someone take care of it for you.
If you're a good wrench and can intuitively take mechanical things apart and put'm back together again, go for it.
If it would seem to you that the fork clamps need to be tighter cuz there is still space there have 'joe' do it at your local shop. About the time you strip a clamp, you're going to wonder about the wisdom of tackling the whole process.
Let alone have it leak when you're all done 'cuz you used a hammer and a drift to 'seat' the seals.......
