gator kdx

Member
Oct 30, 2002
82
0
I'm still having trouble with my float level and I'm beginning to consider the problem isn't the float or valve needle, but the 'needle jet' the needle sits in.

I found a previous post which suggested putting a ball bearing in the jet and tapping it lightly to ensure the needle is sitting correctly.

Also, I was wondering if this jet is removable????
It would seem like it should be, but I would hate to start wrenching on it and 30 seconds later be holding a useless carb.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
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If it's the seat your thinking of being the problem (you say, '..still having a problem.' Don't know what that means. I didn't go off on a search to find out), take a strip of wet-n-dry sandpaper (about 1/8" wide) and wrap it over a q-tip. Wet it and with light pressure give it a 'cleaning'. imo...start with maybe 400, finish with 600. 360 would work, but don't get carried away.

And I wouldn't be pounding OR tapping against anything brass with something steel.
 

Jim Crenca

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Mar 18, 2001
509
0
You didn't mention if you replaced inlet needle.
Mine looked fine but was inconsistent; worked great after replacement
I'm assuming you are setting float level as per Canadian Daves web page.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
yah...that's part of my 'I don't know what this means'... I don't know if it was replaced or not...but it should be if there's a leaking problem, regardless of what it looks like.

....or, 'I agree with mr. crenca.' ;)
 

gator kdx

Member
Oct 30, 2002
82
0
The needle is brand new, I just replaced it 2 weeks ago. I was having the same problem with carb 'peeing' and figured if it wasn't the float that the needle was the obvious culprit.

The new one doesn't seem to have any defects though, that's why I began wondering about the needle seat.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
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1. Get specific info for the '90. I think the 'not removeable' part is true for the 'H' models...but that's not what you have.

2. re: peeing. When? If it's a 'when on the kickstand' issue, then you likely don't have a needle/valve problem, but a float level issue. Note I say ISSUE and not PROBLEM, as it's common for the kdx to 'pee' when it's on the stand even when the float level is set to spec. Set the float level 1mm or so lower and you won't have nearly the problem you do now (assuming that currently it's correct). Besides, that will have the overall effect of leaning things a bit, and most every kdx in the world could use summa that.

You do that by bending the TANG that activates the needle (if your tang is metal), NOT by bending the floats. I'm sure you know that, but I've read the 'bend the float' idea more'n once. It's not the way to do it.
 

gator kdx

Member
Oct 30, 2002
82
0
Thanks for the replies....

It's not only a kickstand issue, it does it when the bike is upright also - pretty high flow of gas coming out the overflow.

I've set the level to 1mm (even experimented with less) below the bowl mating surface using a gauge. However, the bike keeps peeing. I think maybe the previous owner mangled the float because the metal looks somewhat twisted and stretched.

When the float is mounted with the bowl off, I've tried checking to make sure it's not getting hung up by checking its movement in all directions.....seems fine.

Yesterday I was out riding and she tried to kill me. Flying up a trail about 50ft from a hairpin right when all of a sudden the bike went WOT. I tried tweaking the throttle and tapping the clutch, no response. Next I tried the kill switch and it seemed to take FOREVER to work. Gas level was fine in the tank and it ran fine after I got my nerve back and started riding again.

I think I just need to order a new float and hope that will resolve some of these issues.
 

Jim Crenca

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Mar 18, 2001
509
0
Aren't you glad you have a simple, reliable, trouble free trail bike?
Just think how complicated your life would be if it was one of those fancy foreign bikes.
At least you can verify the problem on your bench with some liquid other than gasoline to see how hard you have to push on the float to make fuel flow stop (or if there are other problems).
Perhaps R&B could machine a new seat into bowl, or you could try Fredette for a used one.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
You're describing the same issue as another thread not too long ago. Didn't go looking for it, but he had a WOT issue. Kill switch didn't work. He ended up dumping the thing just to get off it....it lay on its side and ran summore. That's what you get with a severe lean situation.....auto-ignition.

Anyway, his problem was the same....sticking float/needle. At least, last I heard he'd ridden some after its replacement WITHOUT it happening. He replaced the needle to fix his problem.

So..you've replaced the needle but it still either sticks or leaks.

Something is holding the thing up (duh). Maybe it's the floats, or crud in the seat that's 'grabbing' the needle....especially a nice new soft-tipped needle like you just put in.

I still vote for the q-tip idea. I've fixed quite a number of 'non replaceable' sticking/peeing/leaking needle/seat carbs that way. I have an old street riding buddy that likes to leave his bike sit for a year or two...and then calls me when it won't start!! (of course it's sat with no prep, old gas, etc.) His carbs (all four of 'em) get to be a mess! Doesn't keep him from doing it over and over.

What else in the way of sense would you expect from a jean-ee-ous? ;)

Anyway, I've used the method before with 100% success in those cases.

Give it a shot....soon. Before the crummy seat ruins your new needle.
 
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