Removing grease seals

23jayhawk

Sponsoring Member
Apr 30, 2002
675
0
What is the trick to popping out the grease seals on the wheel bearings? Tried a small screwdriver, a hook scribe - they seem kinda snug. Is there a secret here? :think: They are too soft to really get a pull on them. I don't see a snap ring hiding in there - am I missing it?
 
Last edited:

Mike McGlade

Member
Jan 13, 2000
57
0
I just did my 98 models' last night. Insert a medium sized screwdriver up between the seal and bearing and twist the screwdriver until the seal un-seats itself at which point it will be easy to extract it from there. Just be careful that the tip of the blade is against the bearings outer race to un-seat the seal, otherwise you may damage the dust seal on the bearing.
 

23jayhawk

Sponsoring Member
Apr 30, 2002
675
0
Well, that was a snap. But the bearings are completely sealed. I was under the impression that there was a way to clean & regrease them. Looks like all you can do is wipe out the end of the hub, smear some grease in the seal & hope for the best. Does anyone make a bearing that can be repacked, once these go up in smoke?
 

andrew

Member
Aug 7, 1999
278
0
you are much better off with the sealed bearings; they are one thing that is actually an IMPROVEMENT !
If you co with the ones you can repack, you'd find yourself doing them after every ride ! AND, they probably wouldn't last as long either.

Cheers,
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
jayhawk:
'But the bearings are completely sealed'

After you take the grease seal off/out? Guess I'm missing something again.

After you snick out/off the seal (I prefer to use a mechanics scribe, inserted at the INside diameter, move the scribe in a rotation around the inner race and the seal pops right out) what you should see are the rollers and their retainer. Kind of hard to clean them real well, they being pressed into the wheel, but brakeclean would work fairly well.

Either work grease in by hand or use the syringe method to ensure you get grease through to the side you can't see.

I think you're referring to the external seal, NOT the bearing cover? It's the latter that's removed with the scribe method above. There's your ball bearings!

Andrew:
'If you co with the ones you can repack, you'd find yourself doing them after every ride ! '

Nope. I check mine with tire changes (couple/three times a year). The kawi OEM units have been replaced, but that wasn't a grease failure issue. Just wore out. (One side sealed as OEM. They aren't completely 'open'. That would be kinda useless for their intended purpose)

Jasonwho:
'I would prefer two side sealed.'

I don't think so. OK...you can prefer as you wish..but you should prefer ONE side sealed.

They are put in that way for a reason. While seals keep out a lot of grit and grime, they WON'T keep out water....and you need an exit for moisture. Kawi bearings are sealed on the outside face and unsealed on the inside for a reason.

Buy any aftermarket bearing ('all balls' for ex), and both sides of the bearing will be sealed.

Do yourself a favor. REMOVE one of them before you install them, removed seal side toward the inside of the hub.
 
Last edited:

23jayhawk

Sponsoring Member
Apr 30, 2002
675
0
CC - you got me there. I was describing the black rubber cover that pops into the outer edge of the hub.

Now that I know what you are describing (snicking out the race seal), I will have to try that next time. I thought about giving it a go when I had it apart, but it looked like the seal had a flange that was overlapped by the race. Thought for sure I would tear it up in removing it.

Where I ride (St. Joe's State Park) is mostly sandy stream beds, so this is going to be a routine thing. I'll give a try next time. :cool:
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
Yeah..not exactly a direct access to the great outdoors.

No place to go but into the hub it seems. Presumeably that's better than being 'sealed' in the bearing.

Anyway, as you mentioned that's how kawi does it. Must be SOME reason?

.. the same reasoning used to make their fork springs only 470mm long and preloaded with 3 1/2 inches of steel???

23jayhawk:
The bearing seal comes out without a hitch. Snaps right back in, too. If you try to remove it bearing (ha!) against the OUTside diameter of the seal you'll bugger it pretty good. Using the INside and a bit of a wrist-flick, they pop right out/off. (Never thought I'd say anything like this, but thanks to mnkdxer for that tip ;))

Regarding the seal at the outer edge of the hub, I use a common screwdriver to pop those out as mike said...but I'd rather use about as large a blade as will fit, and not twist, but pop 'up' by pushing down on the handle. ......jmo.......
 
Last edited:

DVO

Member
Nov 3, 2001
231
0
Stubborn as I am I couldn't see any reason(and no-one gave me one) why you couldn't put a grease fitting on the hub and just lube frequently. I had to replace my bearings and figured I do it and see what happens. I bought bearings without seals (they're cheaper too)'cause you don't wanna seal 'em if your gonna grease 'em. The nipple is installed in the center of the hub. After a ride I get out the grease gun and go at 'er. It doesn't take much before clean grease comes out behind the dirty so I figure the bearings are well cleaned of dirt, flushed of water and extremely well lubed. I know that not everyone agrees with this but like I said, no-one could give me a reason not to do it. So far it seems to work well. After the summer I'll tear it down and inspect in detail and let you guys know one way or the other.
As far as where to buy these types of bearings any bearing supplier in the yellow pages has just what you need.
 

DVO

Member
Nov 3, 2001
231
0
Just bring an old bearing. It'll be no challenge for 'em to find a match. Their suppliers are kawasakis suppliers.
 
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…