prater696

Member
Nov 11, 2007
34
0
Hey all,
Im curious on how to re route the coolant hoses around the frame on my 82 yz 250.
I've heard alot about people who have done this but I cant find any helpful hints through web searches.
It seems to be fairly easy but I just cant see how it wouldnt affect the steering or possibly pulling hoses loose by stering hard.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.... Matt
 

Yz250JdT250

Member
Apr 26, 2004
142
0
I had a 1982 yz250 but then sold it. Cool bikes. You want to re-locate those goose necks that go into the steering head of the frame? Aren't there holes in the steering shaft that correspond to the ones on the frame? Why re-route them? Are you fitting a different engine in there?
 

Yz250JdT250

Member
Apr 26, 2004
142
0
I dont think steering hard would pull the hoses, becuase they arent attached to the steering stem, theyre attached to the frame. I just remembered... isnt there one that goes into the frame underneath the gas tank too?
 

prater696

Member
Nov 11, 2007
34
0
Thanks for the response Yz.
I bought this to race evo next year and had no idea of what I was getting into with this year.
Needless to say I had the frame powdercoated before inspecting it (durrr) and found out the inside of the stem was trashed.
Anyway, I rerouted it myself with some heater hose and a brass elbow, modified the number plate a little bit and it worked out beatiful.
No more leaks and it even looks kinda trick.
Stuff like this usually doesnt work in my favor but this time I got lucky.
 

Yz250JdT250

Member
Apr 26, 2004
142
0
Nice. I had some parts on mine powdercoated. I had to take the stem off the lower clamp to get that PC'd along with the upper. I brought it to a shop to have them press it out and they ended up bending the stem :whoa: . It was still useable. I just had a silvervein top clamp and a sandblasted lower. The bike never really had much power, i dont think i had it running well though. It handled like a nightmare too. What are you doing about the shocks on yours?
 

prater696

Member
Nov 11, 2007
34
0
For the front suspension I put 7w sylkolene oil and 18 psi of air ... I may try a heavier weight transmission oil in them to get them a little stiffer though and as far as the back, I dunno.
I dont wanna drop hundreds on ohlins making me one and missouri doesnt have any seals to rebuild the shock so any suggestions?
I havent actually ridden this bike yet so you just made me horrified about the handling. ha.
Although as far as the power I heard from a friend who raced one in 82 that there was a recall on the head which called for different porting that really made open up.
I plan on doing some homework and seeing if I can find those old tech specs.
 

prater696

Member
Nov 11, 2007
34
0
Thanks zoom!
I dont know why I didnt think about hitting up racetech.
Im still stuck in the modern day mind frame and didnt think places like racetech carried stuff for older bikes.
 

PEIdirt

Member
Jan 10, 2008
2
0
Good day,
I have an '82 YZ250 as well. Would you Prater be able to tell me how too find out about the head recall thing? Also, did you figure anything out for your rear suspension? I just took mine all apart this evening and now I must decide what I can do to it to make it better.
Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Joey
 

prater696

Member
Nov 11, 2007
34
0
Hi.
I'll just have to figure out how to scanthe page I got and post it on here because I cant even explain what they are saying to do here.
The page came from "Team Yamaha Center""Competition Support" on 5/3/1982. I got it through my local yamaha dealer who blew the cob webs off of some old archives.
Just ask them for the 1982 yz250j tech updates. This bike has alot of them.
Another thing the page says is to drill 7/16-inch holes in the airbox while pop riveting mesh screen on the inside to allow the maximum air flow. The illustration shows 20 holes drilled but Ill tell you right now from doing that to my modern bike, be perpared to clean alot of air fliters ALL the time.
 

PEIdirt

Member
Jan 10, 2008
2
0
Hey there prater696,
Any luck with those YZ update things? I contacted my Yamahe dealer and he couldn't come up with anything. Is there any way you could maybe photo copy them and send them to me? You can contact me through my e-mail in my profile.

Thanks,
Joey
 

wfoyz250

Member
Dec 20, 2008
14
0
I just joined this forum and wanted to bring this thread to the top as I too have a '82 which I bypassed water flow around the steering head with sections of 5/8" dia., automotive "formed bend" hoses.
It took a little time but was worth the effort. I also used brass straight connectors to join the hose sections along with the original hoses for a clean "works" type look.
 

AdamKadmon

Member
Jan 12, 2009
2
0
I'd be curious to see a picture or diagram of the mods to the cooling system, as I've been contemplating doing this myself.
Also, does anyone know what weight of oil should go in the crank-case? I've got the Clymer manual which gives no mention it whatsoever, only the method of changing the oil. :think:

EDIT:
So, the Clymer manual does have a table with oil weight for both crankcase and forks, so that rocks.

As for the modification to the cooling system, did you (who have successfully done this) notice any handling differences after the modification? How about shielding? Does the radiator get enough air? Did you seal the parts of the Triple-T that hoses went through somehow? :blah:
 
Last edited:

wfoyz250

Member
Dec 20, 2008
14
0
Send me an email at lnavarro@exceleng.com for pics.

No handiling differences that I can tell.
I removed the bottom water neck off the lower triple. I kept the hose connection in tact on the top triple. Everything I did was done in order to return the cooling system back to it's original factory design. All the factory hoses were removed and stored.
I had to mount the radiator off the forks about 3/4" in order to obtain clearance for the new 90 degree hose bend that now connects on the top radiator outlet. I did this with steel tube spacers, cut to length, and looks like a factory installation.
I also used the tube spacers under the triple for fender mounting which provides space as if the water neck was still installed. This provided the right mounting placement for the fender plus gave access to route the hose between the fender and the triple, then connecting to the lower radiator outlet.
Pictures tell a better story.
 

AdamKadmon

Member
Jan 12, 2009
2
0
I tried emailing lnavarro/AT\exceleng/DOT\com and it bounced back.
 

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