Results on RB Air Stryker and head rework on a KDX220

[skipro3]

This thread is carried over from a previous thread titled, "Which way should I go?" Where I sought advise on performance enhancing mods to my motor. The thread is still out there but since the discussion was covering a couple other issues that came up during it's life, I thought I would pull this data off to a new thread for anyone that wanted to follow my upgrades and to allow the other discussions to continue on that thread. So, here is the link back to the historical log that lead me to this point:
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=94531

 

[skipro3]

Now for the results:
I desided to patently wait for a new head gasket instead of reusing the old one even though I was convinced by acutemp and Robcolo that it would be fine. I didn't want to rush things anyway, so I mounted the carb and inspected the milling on my bike's head.
The carb is a simple plug-n-play swap with the old carb. I took it apart anyway just to be sure the jets were tight and of the size Ron said he put in there. They were fine. I inspected the floats and checked them for level as well as inspect the fuel valve. All o.k. there too. I changed the screws on the bowl to allen head since those phillips tend to be pretty soft metal and wear out easily. The head was milled so well, it was hard to see any machining marks. When asked by Canyncrvr to check the volume of the head before and after, I used some modeling clay to fill the cavity and I am now seaking a graduated cylinder so I can see how much area they displace in a beaker of water. The results will tell CC how much the chamber was reduced in volume overall. When assembling the head back onto the barrel, I noticed the gasket didn't perfectly line up with the milled cavity in the head. At the front of the head, I could see that the gasket didn't reach all the way to the recessed combustion chamber. I took my calipers and checked this against the barrel opening and it was fine. Compaired the gasket to the old one and they were identical, so I guess there isn't a problem. I verified the sparkplug would have adaquate clearance to the piston with the newly reshaped head, and that the alignment pins wouldn't bottom out before the head/gasket/barrel surfaces were to their specified torque. Ron asked me to check before I put it all together. Torqued everything else down to specs and refilled the radiatior with coolant. I shoved the tank on and connected it to the carb. After turning on the fuel and waiting several minutes, there was no leakage. I tipped the bike way over and held it there for 30 seconds then the other side. No pee! On the stock 33mm PWK I had to reset the floats to the lean side of specs to keep that from happening.
So now for the fire:
I set the choke, held the kill button and kicked the bike over a couple of times, with the throttle part open to get a little juice going the right direction. I expected more compression so I was prepared. Yes it had more, but not as much felt resistance as I expected. I released the kill button, and kicked the bike twice. She fired right up halfway through the second kick and the throttle cracked open. The bike sounded a little muffled and needed the throttle blipped to keep running until I remembered the choke. I released the choke and blipped the throttle one more time, ah, much better exhaust note, but now the dog was crying. It seems that I always forget to remove the SparkArrester plug. Kaydee, my almost deaf yellow lab, was in the garage chewing on a tennis ball and happened to be in the line of fire. This was the first time my bike spit it's plug out and my first clue there might be a little more poop beneath the gas tank. Kaydee soothed down after a dog bisket but I noticed the bike had died when I went back to see why she was howling. So, I kicked her over again, and this time, started on the first kick. Great. Wouldn't idle, not to worry, I grabbed the screwdriver I used to use for adjusting the air screw and gave the idle screw a turn, but it was already almost all the way in. The air screw was set by Ron at 3/4 turn out so I cranked on that about another half a turn. the bike revved up and I backed off the idle screw. I set the A/S for almost peak rpm, about 1 full turn out, and set the idle screw one last time.
Warmed up by now, I tossed the seat on had threw my leg over the saddle. A poke at the shifter after a tug on the clutch lever and we were in gear. Felt the same as before. I slipped the clutch out and headed up my concrete driveway. It is steep and about 75 feet long, great for wheelies. So I gave a little throttle figuring that if I was going to loop it, now would be a good time since I stood a fairly good chance at crawling back to the garage and dialing 911 if I hurt myself. I was home alone, the wife going to church this evening. (probably to pray I didn't break my neck with my new toys) No loop but she sat right up and headed for the street. Very controllable since I hadn't even let the clutch all the way out yet.
So, now on the street. What first? A quick run through the gears at not more than 1/2 throttle showed me that there were no flat spots there anyway and settled me into my riding frame of mind. Next run up the road, a bit more throttle and the front is gently lifting up in the first three gears. The bike so far didn't feel much different than it had before I changed things. I was thinking that was good and feeling a little disappointed at the same time. This time I desided to set the A.S. It was about 1 1/2 turns out. I set it back to 3/4 as Ron had provided it to me and again, the bike would not idle, I set it for 1 turn out. Took off in 2nd gear at a crawl and wicked the throttle from shut to just over 1/8. It was like I was riding a throughbred race horse that I just kicked in the ribs. I wasn't expecting that and it almost jerked the bike out of my hands. Now ready and expecting it, I wicked the throttle over and over. Each time she LEAPED forward, snapping and hopping like the lead husky dog on a sled team. This girl spoke to me and she was saying, "lets GO!"
Now, I'm grinning. A couple runs up and down the street to get the feel of her and the next wick I open it up and take off. Wined out first, short shifted second, and tugged the bars as I dropped the clutch on third. No one warned me not to tug the bars. She didnt' loop but it was close. A couple more runs trying different AS settings. That thing is tight. 1/16 of a turn OR LESS and she'll fall out of her zone. Thanks CC for the heads up or I might not have found it. Exactly one turn out is my bikes "happy place".
Now to the dirt. I live on 5 acres and it is steep, 600 feet from the bottom to the top and 200 feet elevation change. Heading down, it really wasn't long enough to see if it would load up, but at the bottom I wicked the throttle, and again, instant response. I turn it around and headed up. Very controllable, I could loft the front wheel up and over anything I wanted and never felt out of control. I was learning her spirit and she was starting to mind her manners with me. A couple more loops up and down and then back to the garage. The light was failing and I wanted to check the engine temperature. Back at the garage, the engine was 178 F. I shut her down for the night and came in to write this up while the impressions were fresh.
First impressions? Bolt up out of the box as Ron set things up, I only needed to adjust the AS from 3/4 to 1 turn out. If this is as good as it gets, I got my money's worth and a lot more. If there is still more to discover as I play with needles and clips, Oh Boy.
I love the CEK needle at 3. Tomorrow, a plug chop and if the jetting is on, then a move to clip 4 on the needle.

 

[gwhII]

Definitely sounds worthwhile. I think I'm going to have to do the head mod after riding season. Thanks for the report!

Best,
Greg

 

[skipro3]

As I think back, now that I have finished dinner, I am recalling which changes affected what and why I am satisfied. First about my bike and it's setup that affect the engine before the carb and head were added:
1999 KDX220 with a Fredette torque ring, a K-35 FMF woods pipe and Turbine Core II SA, VForce reeds (Not VForce II), steahly flywheel weight, Carb jetted with a 140-main, 35-pilot and stock needle on leanest setting. VP C-12 race gas and Maxima Super M @ 40:1.
I think the head mill and squish work that Ron did for $40 really brought out the low speed performance. I thought the bike was a tractor before. This is much improved. I say that this end of the power spectrum enhancement is due to the head because I was using only maybe 1/4 throttle. Going from a 33mm to a plated 36mm carb shouldn't be that big of a deal at the lower throttle settings, compared to a 200 with a 35mm carb going to a 36mm RB modded carb. She really chugs now, right from idle up, at 1/4 throttle, without any funny business. When on the road, I felt a good, firm steady acceleration as I slowly rolled the throttle up to the divider plate at half throttle. Then a distinctive "boost" when the second half of the carb throat was brought into play. Kind of like when your automatic transmission down shifts as your climbing a hill in your car. Not a hit, so to speak but the feeling of some extra push.
I was expecting the CEK needle to be intimidating after hearing from some others here who decided to alter their power curve with a needle change. But I think that with the stock porting of a 220, the extra mass of a flywheel weight, a torque and not a rev pipe, my bike is well balanced with the CEK needle. Only more testing will reveal further personalities in this upgrade.
The exhaust note is different. Before, it was a sharp bark, very MX sounding. Quick to rev with the sound coming right out the tail and not from down deep. I was even wondering if I would pass sound check at the last enduro. Now the note is deeper, more like a 250. This may be due to the larger throat on the carb or my jetting may be a tad rich. Again, the porting I have on the 220 is much tamer than that of a 200. Since my current jetting is set the same as most using this carb on a 200 and that the 200 has better scavenging, I suspect I may be rich. The plug check will tell.

 

[skipro3]

Definitely sounds worthwhile. I think I'm going to have to do the head mod after riding season. Thanks for the report!

Best,
Greg

Greg,
If you want to take advantage of the change sooner, give Ron a call or drop him an e-mail. We made the arrangement to have my head done so he was expecting it. I shipped it on Monday and it arrived on my doorstep on Saturday. At $40 I don't see how it could be a mistake. Shaping for pump gas may not provide you with as much felt change as I experianced since I had Ron shape for race gas AND altitude.

 

[skipro3]

I just remembered, I stalled the bike a couple of times on purpose to see at what point it would stop running. In each case, I could pull in the clutch and start the bike on the first kick. I've never been able to start my bike in gear until now. Because the throttle was off, I suspect the head shaping and resultant compression increase is what is helping me here.

 

[canyncarvr]

So....you're still undecided as to whether or not it was a good move? ;)


That strong pull off the bottom is what Ron's modification does in the first place, and the airstryker improves that in the second place.

Having an improvement in that area with a change from 33mm-36mm I'd say is a pretty big deal! Great!!

I've not used the displacement method for measuring head volume. I use a piece of plexiglas, drill a couple of holes, seal the head with some grease and use a syringe (graduated by design) to fill the combustion chamber (or bore if I'm measuring static compression ratio) with water.

Don't forget to try that #2 sweet spot on your carb. If you settled on 1 turn out, see what happens around 2.25-2.50.

I don't know what you can expect from your DEK (on a 220). I'd sure like to hear about it.

All of it! :)

Thanks for the write-up!! I'm looking forward to CEK/4, DEK/4 and airscrew finger adjustments.

Isn't that thumb screw cute?

BTW, re: '...with the sound coming right out the tail ..'

That's what you want to hear (and where you want to hear it).

 

[bleedngreen]

Nice review, skipro

Didn't realize you were running the torque pipe with a FWW in your 220. In that light, I'd definitely have to agree with 'Carvr about B taper needles' lack of thrill-inspiring performance. Having run a k-35 pipe, my most satisfying jetting worked out being CEL-4, 40/152.

Preferred the overrev of the k-30 though, and that pipe (on a 220) reacted nicely with the 1173L, IMHO. Your bike should be an absolute locomotive as set up; with the amount of bottom end on tap, do you think the torque ring might end up being redundant? Perhaps you could free up a few revs at little to no expense of low end...just a thought.

cheers,
Dave

 

[skipro3]

Thanks for the feedback Dave. I put the torque ring in back when I first got the bike. I had ordered a K-30 pipe and my riding bud, Doug, had a KDX200 with a K-35 pipe. When my pipe arrived, he wanted to give it a try so I let him use it and I put the K-35 pipe on my bike. Long story short, Doug wouldn't give it back. The K-35 he gave me came with the E-Line Carbon Fiber guard as well, so I did o.k. there. I haven't had cause to remove the pipe since then so the torque ring is still on. It will come off as part of the final testing here.
CC: What can I say but thanks for all your posts on your experiances and for encouraging me to proceed with my upgrades. You are the Man! :worship: (and your little sidekick Wibby too!) :yeehaw:
I plan on getting the DEK needle in the mail by Saturday. So I will be testing the CEK-4 and the DEK-4. Right now I have the CEK-3 and jetted the main this evening. I started with 152, went to a 150, and finally a 145. Here are side by side photos of 152 and 150. See next post for the side by side of 150 and 145.

 

[skipro3]

Here is a photo of the 145 main WOT chop. To reiderate, the chop was performed as follows. Warmed up bike with standard plug. Changed to a brand new plug. 4th gear WOT on a slight uphill for a slow count to 30, at least 30 seconds. Pulled in clutch, hit kill button, chop throttle all at the same time. Stopped to change plug back to my origional plug. Headed back to the garage to cut it up and photograph.
As you can see, 152 plug is brown at the base as expected but instead of a solid band, it was a weak color low and then turned darker near it's top. Thick band and extra color to the rest of the plug says I'm way rich here.
The 150 plug was a very uniform band formed at the base with the rest of the plug remaining almost all white. Band still too thick.
The 145 main has a band that, like the 152 plug, is not a uniform shade throughout. Lighter near the base and darker near the top. No color on the rest of the plug and the band is thinner than the 150. Not too thin, in fact if I weren't a chicken, I would go leaner still.
My theory on why I am running so much richer on the same jets others are successful with: My fuel. The C-12 required a leaner main in the stock carb, (140 with a 35 pilot) and that is proving the same here with a 145 looking the best so far. I would plan to lean the pilot, but the AS, at one turn out, is telling me it should be o.k. I might try a 38 if encouraged by some recomendations.

 

[skipro3]

Please note: Conditions during throttle chop:
Air temp was 51F, elevation was 1800, humidity about 22.
I normally ride at 3000 or higher with air temp of 35 to 65. If I do ride lower, then that is because the weather is hot and the high country too dusty. Then I am at 150 ft with air temps in the 90's.
I think that with these plug readings, I could drop still further when riding at 3000+ feet. (over 6000 in some places.)

 

[canyncarvr]

Curious: What was the seat-of-the-pants difference between those last two? The 150/145 compared how in that way?

Temps are on the way up, so be sure to take that into account if you go to a 142 main.

re: airscrew adjustments related to pilot jet sizing.

I don't think that's valid with one of ron's carbs. (I'd say it absolutely is NOT true, but I don't want to sound like a 'noettall') Set the pilot with throttle response/feel. Where the airscrew is is NOT the issue. (is is?)

Other than response (for choosing a pilot) consider: 1. Ease of start from cold iron and cold choke response. If the choke must be on for a bit after start to keep the thing running, you're close. 2. If you are tapping the kill switch to keep the r's below the sky on a choke cold start, you're too lean. 3. If the idle is high on a choke cold start, the choke must be used, the cold engine off idle response stinks but when it's hot-n-bothered it's great.....then you're right on!

Wish I'd had two ES plugs at the coast last weekend. The one I put in for the sand had such a pretty, dark, thin mixture ring (40-162-DEK/4-#7TV) I wanted to save it for posterity.

But, no. I kept the one ES in I had...put in a 165 and went riding!! ;)

You're doing a great job (and everyone a big favor) with the detailed info on Ron's work, your setups and real-world test results. It's stuff like this that makes this forum different from others I've looked at. I've asked a few simple questions regarding other bikes in other forums.....got squat.

Thank you!!

 

[skipro3]

Thanks for the feedback CC. Right now the bike starts cold first kick with choke on, the choke can be turned off within 15 seconds, and the bike keeps idleing. I have idle set pretty low, too low probably, but it keeps idling and doesn't die, so I left it there. Now, when it is hot, like right after a WOT chop, and I have swapped plugs and now ready to start the bike and head back to the house, she don't start so good. Several kicks with throttle off and no results, a couple kicks with throttle at 1/4 and I hear a cough. Kick and twist throttle on about the 7th or 8th kick by now, and it starts. This happened when I first got the bike and had a 40 pilot in. Ended up with a 35 and it was great. So I think I will put a 38 pilot in and see what that does over the weekend.
It sure isn't fun to drop a bike and then after picking it, and myself, up off the ground, have to kick over and over, it's too exhausting!
.

 

[canyncarvr]

Although the A/S seems to be more forgiving than the oem PWK was, the airscrew will have a big effect on hot starts. The 1/16 increments apply!

re: exhausting

Yeah,buddy! I gave up on an uphill section couple weeks back on the 200exc I was riding. Didn't dump it (that particular time ;) ), but would kill it. Trying to hold the bike on the hill, doing the clutch/front brake/rear brake/kicker shuffle trying to keep the thing from disappearing downhill and having to kick...kick...kick...on and on. It was killing me!

My kawi on the other hand...first kick every time. Well, it has a habit of being a stubborn turd if I happen to run out of fuel. THAT takes awhile to get started. Otherwise a 1/2 hearted stab at the (even short!) kicker and it fires right up 99% of the time.

It's time to give that trail (poison oak the name) another try. Get ready, wibby. You ain't seen nuthin' yet!

Restarts after a crash can be problematic. The old bike-tip (turn off the fuel, lay it down for a good pee, upright, fuel on and kick-it) trick works a good lot of the time.

Well....I'd better get to doing something........immediately!! ;)

 

[wibby]

It's time to give that trail (poison oak the name) another try. Get ready, wibby. You ain't seen nuthin' yet!

Huh? :eek:

Sell me your W.E.R. and that trail would be a lot FUNNER! :clue:

 

[skipro3]

I'm back from the first trail ride with the Air Stryker carb and head mod. I started the morning by rejetting the pilot to a 38. The bike still starts first kick of the day, so we loaded up the bikes and headed up to Georgetown. Unloaded the bikes at Bald Mt. staging area and only two trucks in the parking lot. No toilets though! CC's reference to Poison Oak Trail had me checking things twice. Elevation was just about 5000 ft and air temp. was 51F with low humidity; no dew on anything. Quite dusty. Geared up and admiring my new Tech 6 boots, we unload the bikes. Just like back in the garage, choke on, gas on, one kick and she's lit. Doug's KX 500 finally lights after about 6 pokes and he's smokin' like a 12 station hooka. Mine's clean so I check to be sure I added oil. All o.k. We head out on a fireroad and play a little, me with the airscrew and Doug tossing rocks and dirt my way, telling me to hurry up. We get the first single track and head out. Fairly flat and a few waterbars. The bike is very controllable and fun. Felt increase in power from grunt slow to about upper mid, approaching top, but flat after that. She'll rev more but it doesn't seem to be much extra power. That's o.k., I like the power down low. We head down some steeper trails that I know will be interesting on the way back if we come this way. The rear wheel seems to lock up easier here in the loose steep, (and I mean STEEP) downhill track but as long as I'm in 3rd, on the gas just a crack and using both brakes, it is very controllable decent. If I pull in the clutch and let the motor idle down as I use the brakes, the idle dropps off too much and I'm a little afraid it will die. Not good on steep down hill. At the bottom we tie into another fireroad and I adjust the idle screw for a little more idle even though here on the flat ground, the idle is o.k. Doug said it now sounds like a "lean" idle that fast. Nothing lean here so I didn't worry about his comment. He just likes to mess with my head. While Doug takes a break, I went up and down the fireroad, again playing with the airscrew. It isn't as sensitive here, and it takes about a 1/4 turn either way to really tell that it falls off. The air screw was happy at 1 turn out at 1800 ft. even with the new pilot jet and is happy here at 5000 ft. with the same 1 turn out. I didn't expect that. I searched for the 2nd sweet spot but by now Doug's ready to continue the trail. Next single track takes us to some sidehilling. It's steep, but not enough to throw my consentration. As we worked our way along, into and out of the rivenes with their tight bends and washouts, I stalled the bike. I remembered Wibby's experiance on the hill with his stall, and immediately grab the clutch. The bike seemed to magicly start itself! I suspect the clutch is still dragging the gears around just a bit and it's enough to start the engine again. That's a nice tip you gave me there Wib, thanks!! More single track that is somewhat tame, ups and downs, jumps and turns. The bike handles very predicably and I'm able to ride a gear higher all around. She lugs great but on steeper stuff, it will still require a down shift or clutch slip once in a while. But if the rpm's are up above 1000, that bike will hold it's own or continue to build rpm's on some steep hill climb trails. I did notice that the front is lighter and I have to watch out not to loose traction. This happened a couple of times and I couldn't steer! I also noticed that the rear shock is being asked to perform differently now with the extra force of accelleration available. A gold valve back there will probably be the next upgrade. We start heading back to the staging area and go back up the steep long single track trail we came down earlier in the morning. I was leading but I could hear Doug's 500 right on my a$$. I should've downshifted to 2nd but kept third so he couldn't pass. Several spots where folks made their own trail up that nasty hill. Well I hit a good root/ledge of about 12 to 18 inches and the front claws for the sky. Chopped the throttle, but I missed the downshift in the new boots and I bog out in 3rd when all the clutch work did was cause wheel spin or pop up wheelies. Doug wizzed by and I'm left with a bike that won't hold the hill with both brakes on, so we slide back down the hill. I caught the rear wheel on a root and it's holding so I kick the bike over. Two kicks this time with throttle partway open. I start in 2nd knowing that 1st will be too much torque, I'm off. At the same spot, I don't have the speed and again, I stalled out. So back down the hill sliding backwards. Now Doug is on the radio. I tell him I'm right behind him and make a go of it one more time form a lower starting point on the hill. We're off and up, over the hill. Back at the truck we discuss the hill and deside my line wasn't the best choice and that the bike is not at fault. Doug's 500 has a bit of an advantage with the longer wheel base on these hills. (Plus an extra 30 ponies!!) I was planning on moving the needle clip on the CEK from 3 to 4 for an afternoon loop or two, but wasn't feeling all that great.
1. recovering from torn rotator cuff
2. Attended Safari Club banquet / fundraiser last night. (with open bar!!!!)
3. Stayed too long talking with Chuck Yeager and Pete Anderson. (Bid and won autographed autobiographies of both their books)
4. Forgot daylight savings would deny me another hour of sleep.
5. Stayed up after I got home to heckle others here on DRN with my replies.
So with these excuses, I decide to hold off on testing the 4th position on the needle and we load up the bikes to head back home.
In conclusion, the bike upgrades exceed my expectations many times over. All the power increases are very manageable but when pushed past the suspension (rear) capabilites, it can get one in trouble. The way this bike starts is just great. Dumped on a steep hill, righted and still on same hill, 2 kicks and it's off and running.
I will measure the fuel economy later tonight from today's ride and compare it to before the mods done here.
Sorry if my disertation is leanthy or boring, but I am trying to capture the experiance of the upgrade in real conditions and not just report dyno type performance enhancements.

 

[skipro3]

Curious: What was the seat-of-the-pants difference between those last two? The 150/145 compared how in that way?

As I leaned out the main and started a new WOT chop, I discovered there was NO WAY I could hold WOT as I went through the gears to get to 4th. By 145, WOT on first through 3rd would have looped. Much stronger above 3000+ rpms. (That rpm is a guess) I remembered Wibby saying he inadvertantly started in 4th on flat ground so I used 3rd to start my WOT chop run and only had to shift once.

Temps are on the way up, so be sure to take that into account if you go to a 142 main.

I'm staying at 145. I want to keep enough fuel to aid in keeping the motor cool.

re: airscrew adjustments related to pilot jet sizing.
I don't think that's valid with one of ron's carbs. Where the airscrew is, is NOT the issue.

My earlier ride report confirms this. Airscrew not affected by my pilot jetting. Of course, it wasn't affected by a 3200 foot change in elevation either and I don't have an explaination for that. Even though 1/4 turn either way from set point did cause the performance to fall off quickly.

 

[wibby]

Sounds like you had a good ride

I stayed home today and did yardwork :eek:

Good thing I burn my old 2 smoke gas in my mower!

Smelled just like the real thing! :yeehaw:

well kinda like it :joke:

 

[canyncarvr]

You can get less loop out of the front with less compression in the back, too. It's not necessarily a matter of valving. Yes, a lower back-end will put the front-end HIGHER (steeper angle), but if it (the shock) can GIVE or soak up more the front end will stay down better.

I was surprised sometime back the difference in tendency to loop that a couple of compression clicks (less compression/clicks out) can give you.

Some of what you describe will be helped with the AS out to that second sweet spot. When your choices are wheelspin/wheelie..you need to trade those choices in for some steady/sure acceleration!

I couldn't find that spot on my bike saturday. It can be a bit elusive! You'll sure know it when you get there, though!!

That brandy new crf250x couldn't get away from me, though! We passed each other a few times. Uh..I'm talking flat out speed in 2-3-4-5 gears, not trails. I was smilin' about THAT! $6000 bike p'shaw!! (Don't ask what $$ I'm up to on the 'cheap' bike!! ;) )

Thanks for the update!

 

[gwhII]

Cool report, Skipro. My 200 acted about the same way over the past weekend though my elevation changes were only about 10 ft over sea level :-) . The RB modded carb sure changes the soul of the bike. It sure seems like the carb is the key; it accentuates the highs and lows of the porting. I need to try both the A/S out a couple turns and the different needles because my bike likes to wheelie out of turns and sometimes not where I want it to.

Wibby, I've got a 2/s weedeater so that's how I get my 2/s fix during yard work. :-)

CC, how well did the KDX stack up versus the 250X on the trails?

After everything I've read, I think my next mod is going to be a 200 cyllinder overbored to 69mm, FRP ported, Wiseco 220 piston, and a 220 head cleaned up by RB to run on pump gas. I figure I should have 200 power curve with hopefully 220 lower torque. What do you think?

Best,
Greg

 

[skipro3]

I can't wait to hear how it turns out Greg. So get cracking, your burning daylight!

 

[gwhII]

I can't wait to hear how it turns out Greg. So get cracking, your burning daylight!

The idea's in my head (my mind's like a steel trap: rusty and illegal in 37 states :joke: ) and I'm going to start collecting parts to do that later but after everything I've read about your project and our discussion on race gas, I'm leaning toward the incremental approach and getting a 200 head redone by RB to run on race gas and trying that first.

BTW, thanks to what you all posted about the Steahly flywheel weight, I ordered one yesterday. :thumb:

Best,
Greg

 

[skipro3]

Have an air driven impact wrench to remove and install the nut on the flywheel. It sure makes the job easier. Follow all the instructions including the followup after an hour or so of riding to ensure everything remains tight. Keep up the reports on your progress. It will be interesting to compare notes.

 

[gwhII]

Cool, I already have an impact. I ordered their flywheel puller and engine lockup tool too just in case. One can't have too many tools. :-) I'll definitely follow the instructions.

I sent Ron a quick email to check his situation and I'll order a head from my Kawi dealer tomorrow. Hopefully I can have everything buttoned up in a few weeks.

Best,
Greg

 

[skipro3]

Update:
I've not done much with changes to the bike since my last ride report since I have a race coming up Saturday and my training involves LOTS of skiing. (Helps me get into attack mode, especially down steep hills).
BUT, I did decide to repack the SA. It is the FMF Turbine Core II. The stock yellow insulation is just like the stuff I find in the walls at home, whereas the package of FMF material I bought (8 bucks for a bag large enough to do two repacks) was pink and soft like yarn. There was very little spooge on the origional and I almost desided to just put it back together. I think the little spooge is due to the jetting and race fuel I use. The yellow insulation looked like a used cigarette butt, stained dark but not wet with anything.
Well, I repacked anyway, using half the material in the bag even though it would have been easy to use the whole bag. Instructions said to not pack tight, so I didn't. After reassembly, I fired the old gal up and was shocked at how quiet the bike was. I swear it sounds 6dB quiter than before. I took a little spin up the road and WOW! I couldn't believe the extra kick I got. From bottom to top, an improvement in felt power. The bike even revs out easier and higher too. I don't understand why FMF puts such crap insulation in the SA to begin with then sells such great stuff for the repack. Anyway, fresh oil in the motor, fresh tires front and rear, new grips, and now a repacked SA and I'm now ready for key time! Ride report to follow next Sunday since this is a Saturday Enduro!