Reuniting with the KDX family, looking at a 01 KDX220

julien_d · Feb 13, 2011

sr5bidder said:
J.C. may pop his head up out of the snow and come out of hibernation for a moment and reword this for me or maybe even come up with his own set of clever anologies to better explain!

I couldn't have worded that any better my friend, lol. My feelings exactly.

The 200 is faster as in it has more performance in the upper RPM range. Right about the time the 220 is falling flat in a given gear, the 200 is really waking up. It's all about what you want though. The 220 certainly has a stronger pull off-idle.

Seems like I've missed a lot in this thread... I will review. Congrats on your bike, you will love it :). I agree with SR5 strongly on the type F. My KDX likes it better than anything else. Smoother shifts, and easier to find neutral, and less clutch drag. Also on the K&N. Hang it on your garage wall as art if you want, but don't leave it in the bike. I'm not even sure why they bother making them if they can't be bothered to research the correct way to do it.

re: suspension. At the very least you will want to spring that front end. Check racetech for springs for your weight. Some people use stock XR springs. Not sure what model, but someone will chime in with that info. I opted for an MX fork swap myself, but that is completely up to you. You will probably be ok with the stock rear spring after you set the sag and get the clickers set correctly.

sr5bidder · Feb 13, 2011

denbsteph.

I was re-reading and see you want to shave the seat, and wanted to let you know I have a seat that I shaved and put a gripper cover on you could have for shipping.

Also I have a set of lowering links (kouba KDX-1) I do not use any longer that I could send out half price (same deal I gave another member)

Acblind · Feb 13, 2011

I'm not sure if the 220 seat would fit my '95 200 but if it does i'd take it. I'm not looking to step on any toes, denbsteph would have first dibs on it obviously.

denbsteph · Feb 13, 2011

Acblind: Thank you for not throwing me under the bus and taking the seat, you are a gentleman and a scholar! I have been gone all day, first time on today.

sr5bidder: I'll take you up on the seat!! How much did you shave off ? The links I'll take as well! Good looking out! PM me with the details. Dennis

julien_d: Thanks for the info, where can I find " type F " tranny oil? I can't seem to locate it. Question to all of those who are following this thread. On the 220, does the clutch seem to have a "low toned rumble" to it when not engaged? Is this what "clutch drag" is? Everything shifted great yesterday, neutral was easy to find whether coasting to a stop or standing still looking for it.

The shop Manual plus the supplement is on the way, should be here mid week. Looking forward to looking inside the "Jug" and seeing a Weisco piston. I like the pull right off the get go, plus thru the mids and into the top end, something different about this one, it did not appear to "top out" it kept pulling. Then again, I did not peg her in 6th gear, did not want the piston to have a melt down on me. Dennis

Acblind · Feb 13, 2011

It was offered to you first and I respect that. Like I said I'm not here to step on any toes. That being said, if anyone has seat foam/cover for a kdx 200 they'd like to part with let me know. The one i have on there now is the original from 15+ years ago, and needless to say its pretty worn.

julien_d · Feb 14, 2011

Type F you should be able to find at wal-mart, or any auto parts supplier.

The low rumble you hear at idle is most likely kips rattle. The KDX is famous for it.

denbsteph · Feb 14, 2011

julien_d: It goes away when I engage the clutch, I hear it on the side of the clutch, any reason to be concerned? Does the KIPS rattle all the way thru the motor? Dennis

sr5bidder · Feb 14, 2011

denbsteph said:
I like the pull right off the get go, plus thru the mids and into the top end, something different about this one, it did not appear to "top out" it kept pulling. Then again, I did not peg her in 6th gear, did not want the piston to have a melt down on me. Dennis

:whoa: we have six gears?? I loose count from being excited I will take your word for it though :cool: I also have many bikes and a new 4 wheeler 92' warrior (not new by far) so I really don't count gears :)

denbsteph · Feb 14, 2011

It's a habit that's hard to break, counting gears. I had a 84 nighthawk s that told me what gear I was in, so I'm always counting gears. It's like adding up the numbers on license plates, stupid quirk, don't ask!

julien_d · Feb 14, 2011

sr5bidder said:
:whoa: we have six gears?? I loose count from being excited I will take your word for it though :cool: I also have many bikes and a new 4 wheeler 92' warrior (not new by far) so I really don't count gears :)

lol. How often do you think we hit that sixth gear @ brown?

sr5bidder · Feb 14, 2011

julien_d said:
lol. How often do you think we hit that sixth gear @ brown?

that would be a big fat ZERO dude :bang:

and as if you would be able to count gears with that deadly crap :cool:

denbsteph · Feb 14, 2011

Originally Posted by julien_d
lol. How often do you think we hit that sixth gear @ brown?

Are you referring to Brown Mountain OHV Trails?

A bunch of us from work hit the "Outlaw Trails" in WV a couple of times a year.

julien_d · Feb 14, 2011

Yeah, brown mountain :). One of my regular stomping grounds. Some good spots up in WV too, for sure.

sr5bidder · Feb 15, 2011

Hatfield McCoy...yeah come on!

sr5bidder · Feb 15, 2011

denbsteph said:
julien_d: It goes away when I engage the clutch, I hear it on the side of the clutch, any reason to be concerned? Does the KIPS rattle all the way thru the motor? Dennis

yeah they are suppose to sound like a desiel on crack and pulling in the clutch changes the sound a bit..

try to run the type f and fill it to the top of the sight glass while on the stand it may lessen the noise :cool:

BTW whats the news on the piston?

you could just pull the head cap and see if there is a wiseco part number on the top of the piston and then run the piston to BDC and look at the cylinder if all is good then just use some copper spray-a-gasket on both sides of the head gasket and reassemble... Julien_d and I have both reused the head gasket before....mine has over one year on it no probs :cool:

julien_d · Feb 16, 2011

Yeah, I used one head gasket 3 or 4 times and never had a problem. It got a new one when I put my RB modded head on though.

denbsteph · Feb 16, 2011

sr5: I'm waiting on the shop manual, but since you have given some insight on what to look for, I'll give her a whirl tomorrow evening. What have you heard personally about the Boyesson Rad Valve? I'm narrowing my parts wish list down and was looking at the Boyesson reeds. Part list as follow.

Weisco piston and rings of course
Uni Filter
FMF gnarly Rev pipe (looking hard at it)
Reed valves (possibly Rad Valve)
not looking to make her fast in the top end, trying to keep the low end grunt established, love that pulling thru the mid range.

denbsteph · Feb 16, 2011

We haven't been to H & M because alot of us are packing and like to drink a beer here and there. I have heard, never experienced it, but they have Motorcycle cops (so to speak) that check your bike. We usaully ride the coal reclaims, ride into Welch. Average mileage per day is 50 miles. It's dangerous up there but it's fun. Hopefully this year I can get the KDX up there. The Honda runs well up there, I give all those big bore bikes and four wheelers hell. I'll download some pics later today. Dennis

sr5bidder · Feb 17, 2011

denbsteph said:
sr5: I'm waiting on the shop manual, but since you have given some insight on what to look for, I'll give her a whirl tomorrow evening. What have you heard personally about the Boyesson Rad Valve? I'm narrowing my parts wish list down and was looking at the Boyesson reeds. Part list as follow.

Weisco piston and rings of course
Uni Filter
FMF gnarly Rev pipe (looking hard at it)
Reed valves (possibly Rad Valve)
not looking to make her fast in the top end, trying to keep the low end grunt established, love that pulling thru the mid range.

I would just go for the boysen 607 reeds for $35... the rad valve is not too popular with the kdx guys, those who do spend money go for the V-Force reed cage assemble.. I met some one out in the field who had the kdx200 and the rev pipe and the v-force and it was insane

sr5bidder · Feb 17, 2011

denbsteph said:
We haven't been to H & M because alot of us are packing and like to drink a beer here and there. I have heard, never experienced it, but they have Motorcycle cops (so to speak) that check your bike. We usaully ride the coal reclaims, ride into Welch. Average mileage per day is 50 miles. It's dangerous up there but it's fun. Hopefully this year I can get the KDX up there. The Honda runs well up there, I give all those big bore bikes and four wheelers hell. I'll download some pics later today. Dennis

I never seen any "cops" up there I was on the buffalo MT. trails. I did almost get busted just over the bridge from Matewan WV. in kentuky for the front end coming up while riding on the road, good thing the cop was too lazy to get out of the car!! I had a pretty good buzz going, it would have been really bad.

denbsteph · Feb 18, 2011

I'm gonna pull the top of the cylinder off Sunday, I hope. Relatives are down on the wife's side so I have been locked in, trying to stay out of trouble. I still have not got my shop manual yet, I need to call them some time and get the scobby on "Where it is" I'm assuming I need to drain the Radiator just to get to the top of the cylinder off?, I have not really got down and looked at it. Been doing a lot of research on what the 220's possible faults are. Dennis

jb_dallas · Feb 18, 2011

denbsteph

I am far from a KDX expert, but I do own a 220. I just installed a set of 607 Boyesen reeds and I noticed a slight gain on the top end..I am still working on the jetting. I have a FMF Woods pipe and an open air box...the bike has tons of low end grunt. From your thread above, it sounds like you are looking for low end more than top end. If that is the case, I would think the rev pipe would be a waste of money. I would also not bother with the rad valve. If you are set on buying a pipe, you can find either one (Desert or Woods) new on Fleabay for about $200.

julien_d · Feb 18, 2011

Woods pipe supposedly does not work very well with the 220.

jb_dallas · Feb 18, 2011

Thats what alot of people say, but it really depends on the bikes purpose. Its really hard to beat the woods pipe for tight, technical trails. That is the main reason I havent bought a desert pipe...I dont want to sacrifice much bottom end for top end. Why spend the $200 for a rev pipe if the guy only wants low end power?

julien_d · Feb 18, 2011

jb_dallas said:
Thats what alot of people say, but it really depends on the bikes purpose. Its really hard to beat the woods pipe for tight, technical trails. That is the main reason I havent bought a desert pipe...I dont want to sacrifice much bottom end for top end. Why spend the $200 for a rev pipe if the guy only wants low end power?

Well, here's how it's been told to me. The woods pipe simply doesn't match up well with the 220's porting. Doesn't do much to improve low end, and kills what little top end there is.

Likewise, the rev pipe does not sacrifice bottom end on the 220, but will add a bit of midrange grunt and over-rev. You could consider it a "torque" pipe for the 220 and a "rev" pipe for the 200.

I haven't got personal experience here, so consider that regurgitated information.

Here. read this bit from the justkdx.dirtrider.net tech tips section

Its important to note that because of differences in port timing the KDX200 and 220 don't react the same to each pipe. Both the FMF pipes and the Pro Circuit pipe were originally designed to be used on the KDX200. Installing a Torque pipe on a KDX200 will improve performance over the stock pipe from idle to wide open throttle. However installing a torque pipe on a KDX220 will improve performance from idle to about 7500 rpm then fall flat just like the stock pipe with no meaningful increase in over rev or higher rpm performance. If you're looking to improve your 220's power delivery from the bottom to top end then a rev pipe is a must. You'll often see the FMF KG-30 advertised as a rev pipe for the 200 and as a torque pipe for the 220 for this very reason. The torque pipe is still a viable choice for 220 owners who focus the majority of their riding in tight technical conditions or for those who want to maximize bottom to mid performance and are willing to give up some upper mid to top end performance in trade.

So yes, you can use the woods pipe on your 220. It won't necessarily add much more bottom end than the rev pipe though, and will leave you with a bike that requires short shifting.

Reuniting with the KDX family, looking at a 01 KDX220

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