Revloc Magic

[tedkxkdx]

Man, everybody chill. I think the original thread has been lost. Time to close it.
Revloc= good and bad depending on how u look at it. Go try one and decide for yourself.

 

[rethnal]

Give me the money Ted and I would be HAPPY TOO! :)

 

[wsmc831]

I don't think the autoclutch is a substitute, especially if they haven't learned how to clutch first. I put an EFM in 2 months ago, but it doesn't take the place of using the clutch or shifting in all circumstances. if you don't know how to shift properly, it will burn your clutch out quickly. Heck, a friend had one in his 400sx and burned the clutch during the quicksilver...

the main benefits I see, and the reason I bought it, are two:

on those occasions in really knarly, nasty stuff where something such as a rock, root or quick turn, where I don't have time to shift, or lose balance for a sec or whatever, I don't have to worry about slipping the clutch to keep from stalling, which is much more difficult on a ktm than other bikes I've ridden, you just give it gas and worry about other things.
second reason is I never found a good position for my rear brake lever, whether standing or sitting, so I now have a rear brake lever mounted as my main lever on the left bar, with the clutch lever ahead. this allows me to lock up the rear wheel and keep my foot out on the right side if necessary, or lock the rear wheel into a turn and not have it stall.

some people think it's cheating, it's not fair...that's ok. It's not perfect. I can't bump start my bike so if it stalls, I have to kick it. There is just a bit too much drag I haven't gotten out of it yet, and I do believe the more lazy you are the faster you will burn a clutch.
normal operation won't use the clutch any more than before, but becuase of the occasional slips from the use of the efm, if the clutch only lasts a year that's fine, I don't mind replacing it.
I also have brp 18's on my bike, and it turns easier...not taking them off either....or the wer, or the...

anyway, those are the pro's and con's as I've seen so far. I don't need any practice clutching and shifting, did plenty of that when I was roadracing, and still do on my other bike....


oh, and EFM is only 500 if you say you are using the woodsracer.com group buy.....

and you can go back to stock for around 60 dollars if you want.

 

[canyncarvr]

What was the core allowance for the kdx on the rev-lock? From their website, they just say it varies.

Considering a hinson basket is a couple hundred..then you have to put plates in it, if the kdx core is on the high end of the $$ upon return, it might not be too bad.

So...what was the end $$ cost?

 

[wsmc831]

end cost was 515 delivered to me. I sent my basket and plates in, they mod and send them back.

 

[marksharp]

I had my local shop install my RevLoc and I think they said the core was about $500-600 returned as soon as you ship them the old clutch assembly. I fronted them some money so they wouldn't be out while the swap took place.
The actual install is pretty simple, it took about an hour. I changed the transmission oil after every ride for the first couple of outings. I noticed some aluminum shavings and called them. They said that was normal during the intial rides. No problems so far. Smooth as silk.

 

[Jim Crenca]

How about engine braking?
I gather you can snap throttle to lock up clutch when approaching downhills.
I don't mind the clutch, but the thought of less fatigue is a plus; my style does rely on engine braking though.

 

[wsmc831]

as long as the engine is spinning above an idle basically, the clutch is engaged. there is engine braking as normal, but no bump start possible.

the engagement point and drag are tuneable with springs and shims and such.


at least on the efm, haven't seen the rev-lok.

 

[Jim Crenca]

So you would always have to keep RPM's above idle for clutch to stayed locked up?
Any of you guys find that to be a problem on nasty downhills?

 

[wsmc831]

you dont' have to try at it, it's just like normal. if the engine is spinning above idle like it will if you are moving at all, then the clutch is engaged. Only time clutch is NOT engaged is if the rear wheel is stopped moving (or locked from braking), or the engine is not running, or running at idle.

 

[rice1825]

Just curious, but what happens if your throttle sticks open. Can you still pull in the clutch lever to keep the power from going to the rear wheel, or do you have to hold on like hell, and hope you can hit the kill switch before you hit a tree.

thanks

 

[wsmc831]

clutch operates as normal until the engine rpms drop to idle.

including clutch lever

 

[Enduro_Nut]

I can't wait for the EFM - I used to ride the old Husky auto's and loved them. The EFM doesn't work as well but just having the no stall is worth it's weight in gold to me - one re-start is one to many!

Regarding down hills - on the old Huskies it freewheeled and you get used to it, it will teach you how to properly use your brakes. I'm assuming the EFM/Revloc is the same?

One thing from a previous poster - I wouldn't allow a youngster to not learn proper clutch control prior to going auto. I love the auto setup but first things first - if they get stuck on another machine they will really hate it!

 

[wsmc831]

"Regarding down hills - on the old Huskies it freewheeled and you get used to it, it will teach you how to properly use your brakes. I'm assuming the EFM/Revloc is the same?"

anyone reading anything previously on this thread? c'mon people, how many times do the same questions have to be answered?

sheesh ;-)


no, it does not freewheel.

clutch operates as NORMAL until the revs drop to idle, so unless you are going so slow you are idling down a hill, the clutch is engaged.