Ring-free

BTW jaybird thanks for misqutoing me :) Thats as bad as a news crew chopping up what you say on camera for effect. I never said Castor was "THE best" I said it's "ONE of the Best".

And since you asked where I picked up on how good Castor is you ever heard of Swedetech?? Doubt it, but they are THE BEST Shifter Kart motor builders in the country. I've owned 2 of there CR125's and one ICC motor and they suggest but don't spec Castor based oils for there motors. The testing they have done in house on there race motors the Castor based oils film had the highest threshold before it broke down under extreme load.


I also believe that the advances made in synthetics in the past 10 years make them very worthwhile products as well. Hence why I'm gonna give a synthetic a shot when I run out of my 927 and rebuild the top end. I don't dog my KDX one 10th as hard as I ran my Karts. LOL

I guess the manufactuer does'nt know what there talking about, Huh JB :think:
Call Fredette and ask him, then maybe you wo'nt be amazed at what you read

SS KDX, I am sorry if I misquoted...-I was actually paraphrasing and should have made that obvious.

I'm not dogging anyones method. What we chose to do is our business anyway.
I'm only saying that there are reasons to run with more oil. The only reason not to, of any importance, would be to save coin.

More oil not only provides a better seal at the ring, but helps to coat the outside of the parts that do not have a friction surface. Winter riding where the bike sees hot and cold frequently, as well as riding in alot of water, can lead to rusty cranks, rods, etc...within the motor. Where there is rust, there is iron oxide (an abrasive) waiting to contaminate a friction point.

The KDX motor has always been a stable smooth band motor. But it sees the rigors of what a MX bike would. Often times making as many revs in it's life as it's track counterpart.
(lol...I'm sure that some have never experienced this, but some actually ride their KDX's)

Wear is wear, and if we can help rid of it, and provide more power at the same time, why would we not?
I remember...to save a bit of money. Cost of oil vs Cost of parts.... (shrug)

40:1 probably is sufficient for the majority of woods/trail type riders, with probably any of the major oil brands. Sure, you'll get some Amsoil salesman to convince you that you can run at 100:1 with no problems, and you may well be fine, but you definately comprimise the engines performance. They probably do have additives in the oil that will protect at the point past the film being penetrated, but they are not providing a good ring seal with 100:1 wonder oils. And it only stands to reason that with far less oil, you get far less coating protection internally.

Since only about a million people have trashed chain saw, boat, and bike motors and such trying these different ratios out, and all come up with very close to the same conclusions..I think that I will stay with the more oil way of thinking for now...unless someone can show me why not?

And NO, the oil manufacturers are not taking all these items into consideration...so NO, they don't know what they are talking about. But ask them...they love us more oil guys far more than you chincy Amsoil guys. :)
( lol...Amsoil is just glad that there are still fish in the pond! )

good points Jaybird. I will go on to note that Swedetech told me to be truly safe use 5 ozs. per gallon. I think that works out to 26 to 1. I keep forgeting to check it on my ratio rite.

Unless I have missed it nobody has mentioned the KDX powervalve (KIPS) in this discussion. I think it may be somewhat unique in the overall world of two stroke engines. The oil in the KDX fuel mixture not only lubes the engine, but lubes the KIPS as well and hopefully does not gum it up. Most riders have found that 40 to one mixture of all synthetic oil does the overall job best on the KDX. Now I know that there are people on the fringes of the bell curve that may add road tar at 10 to one and those that use kerosene as oil at 100 to 1 but the peak of the bell curve of users will show about 40 to 1 all synthetic oil. It is your bike - treat it like you want and repair it when you will. Cheers John

Another reason I want to try synthetics. On our CR 125 Kart motors we diasable the power vales with blank plugs and port aournd them to match. Didn't need to worry about no Stinking Valves getting gummy. LOL same thing with all the Jet Skis we used to tune on and race.

Now that I'm back to dirt bikes with power valves again it time to try something that won't gum up as bad. I pulled the left side KIPS cover off ( I believe that it just a pressure relief chamber) and man was there some spooge in there LOL. I can only imagine what the front valves look like.