RM'ers... Help!

quik720 · Apr 3, 2006

Does anyone happen to have the crankcase bolt(s) torque specs? I ordered a manual but it won tbe here for 2 weeks! I wanna ride now! Thanks In Advance Guys!

Fultoncm · Apr 3, 2006

Ok, I've got a 98 RM125 and a Suzuki manual sitting right here. It says the crankcase bolts are "10Nm, 1.0kg-m, or 7.0 lb-ft" "Note: Tighten the crankcase bolts gradually and diagnolly to guide the crankshaft into the bearing. If its hard to tighten the bolts, separate the crankcase and confirm that the transmission parts are assembled correctly."

quik720 · Apr 3, 2006

Sweet! Thanks ALOT man, I really appreciate it. We virtually have the same bike! Have you torn into the bottem end of yours yet? Have you experienced the same BS i have recently had to deal with?! These two years of 125's are unique...And are a PITA!

(Since youve got the manual right there.....Mind giving me the clutch spring bolt(s) also?!) Much appreciation!

Fultoncm · Apr 3, 2006

I haven't gotten into the bottom end, except clutch and crank seals, but I've been in the top a lot more than I've wanted. I know what you're saying about the uniqueness of these years of RM's. It sucks. I ended up ditching the stock carb because it was such a pile. I got a carb off an older model and it runs so much better.

There are no specs on those bolts. It just says to tighten them diagonally. The only spec is on the clutch sleeve hub nut (the one in the center): 70Nm (7.0kg-m, 51.0 lb-ft). Hope this helps.

I'm sitting around the house bored off my ass for the next 3 weeks, so ask away!

quik720 · Apr 3, 2006

Right on man! I really appreciate the help!

I just got done putting it all together. I replaced the piston since I was in so far already.(hot rods connecting kit, wiseco std piston.) I JUST finished and tried turning the magneto just to make sure, and the piston is hitting to top of the DAMN cylinder. I dont know wtf is going on, But Im pissed. Gonna go tear into again, and lok around.

Fultoncm · Apr 4, 2006

Yikes, the only thing would be the connecting rod. Could it be too long?

quik720 · Apr 4, 2006

Yep... Im thinking my bike is also a 98...... I ordered another connecting kit. Ill let you know tommorow. (You dont have a teleportable case splitter, Do you?!)

Fultoncm · Apr 4, 2006

Check out this link: http://www.suzukicycles.org/RM-RMX-series/index.html?RM125_1981-2003.shtml~isoraami

The noticable difference between a 98 and a 99 is the front fork. A 99 has an inverted front fork.

quik720 · Apr 4, 2006

I understand that...But the guy i bought it from told me it was a 98 frame with a 99 engine...I now know he is full of BS! You wouldnt by chance know what size socket I need to remove the clutch basket??!! I had my buddy do it the first time, And didnt pay attention. I bought a 1-1/16" but 'tis too small!!

Fultoncm · Apr 5, 2006

Damn, the manual doesn't say, but I would have thought it was metric. I've never removed the basket before so I'm not sure. I've only removed the plates and springs.

I've got my top end tore apart right now. One of the exhaust valves broke off and the piston hit it. The first run after replacing the top end. Still waiting on parts!

quik720 · Apr 5, 2006

Man that is a bummmmmer.... Sounds like the kind of luck Im having! Im going to literally take the motor in to Checker tommorow, And get the right one! Ill be sure and let you know, You can right it down in your manual in case you ever need the info!

What all do you have done to your RM?
Me:
FMF Gold SST Pipe/SST Shorty Silencer/V-Force Delta2 Reed Cage/V-Force Carbon Fiber Reeds/13-50 Gearing/ ProTaper Bars/Advanced Racing Trip-Trees/Showa Pro Front Forks/Showa Pro Rear Shock/.....Lots of other little crap.

Fultoncm · Apr 5, 2006

I've got an FMF Gold Series pipe and Turbine core silencer, VForce 3 reeds, pro taper bars, and I can't remember what trip-tree I bought, but I have a upgraded one of those. I haven't done too much to the bike. I need to get a new rear shock bearing assembly. The last time I tore the bike down I noticed one pivot point was completely trashed...rusted and the needle bearings were half gone. I've been waiting for one to pop up in an auction.

I'm living near Seattle now and the riding out here is incredible. I bought the bike when I moved here 2 years ago. Now I'm moving back to Tampa, FL and the riding is going to suck. It'll be a 1-2 hour trip to a crowded spot with no hills. I'm going to cry. There litteraly hundreds of miles of trails within 30 minutes of where I live with serious hill climbs, mountains, rock pits, jumps, dunes... How is it in AZ?

quik720 · Apr 5, 2006

Im in Albs N.M.! It kicks ass out here too! Endless hours, days even of riding in any direction. I literally ride my bike out of my shop and GO! No trailers, no loading/unloading. Terrain is everything from mountains, sandy whoops, sand pits, hard pack jumps, rivers, just everything you can imagine. Stop off here in NM on your journey out to FL, Ill show you around!

F.Y.I- That clutch basket nut is a 1-1/16"....Couldnt find the metric size. But this one fits perfect. No slack at all. I already gone mine off, wating for the crank to come back....Two more days hopefully and I can ride again!

Fultoncm · Apr 5, 2006

I'd definitely be up for that, but the bike will most likely be packed way up in the truck. I've got a ton of shyte to move. A 4 bedroom house. I'm getting the biggest truck Penske makes. A 26 footer. I'll also be towing the wife's Beetle and she'll be driving our X5. Gonna cost like $1500 in fuel! Then the damn rental truck is $3500! When I moved out from Florida 2 years ago, the rental was $1300. A smaller truck, 16', but still. This totally sucks, but still cheaper than hiring a mover.

I was gonna suggest that you buy a set of sockets from Home Depotl, find out which one you need, and then return them. I've done that before.

quik720 · Apr 6, 2006

Highway Robbery! (No pun intended) That sucks man! You couldnt possibly be making a longer move either! Completly diagonal and clear across the entire country! We will have to exchange e-mail addies, and keep in touch!

silver_Truck · Apr 6, 2006

try 30 mm thats what it is on my 01

Fultoncm · Apr 8, 2006

I'll keep coming on this site even after moving to Fla. It looks like I'll be around Seattle until end of May or early June. We sold our house, but it's contigent on the buyer selling theirs, so that gives me some time to get more riding in.

It's definitely a long move. I did the drive from Tampa to Seattle about 2 years ago and it's 3300 miles. I drove diagnolly up from Tampa to Sioux Falls, SD, and then it was 1600+ miles on I-90 straight to Seattle. That was the roughest. Being on one rode for that many miles is torture. I drove 5 days for 16 hours a day...just me and the dog. It was a wild ride. Saw things I never thought I'd see: tornados, Mt. Rushmore, several mountain ranges, coyotes, antelopes, buffalos, wild dogs, strange truck stops, etc. Everyone should do this once in their life. Luckily for me, I'll be doing it twice. This time we're driving down through Cali, and then cutting straight accross the South to Florida.

quik720 · Apr 9, 2006

Do you know if moving the stator either clock or counter clock wise effects timing?

Fultoncm · Apr 9, 2006

The manual says it does. It says: "Align the line on the stator and triangle mark on the crankcase to set the ignition timing correctly". "Fit the key into te crankshaft." "Fit the magneto rotor." "Tighten the nut to the specified torque with the special tool: 09930-40113: Rotor holder." Then it says the spec on the nut is: 35Nm (3.5kg-m, 25.5 lb-ft).

quik720 · Apr 9, 2006

Thanks a MILLION! Again!

slappnutz · Apr 10, 2006

hey guys, im pretty sure the main clutch basket nut is 1 1/4" but that may just be on 250's. I have been down the bottom end road and its not alot of fun. I blew a crank bearing last year, replaced entire bottom end except the crank itself, piston sucked up metal and destroyed the jug and head too. Had to have the jug re niciled. $$$$

but i still love my rm!

quik720 · Apr 11, 2006

Mine is a 1 1/16''. But thanks for the input!
Thats a total bummer about your bike man....Thats the kind of luck im having!
I got it all back together, fired right up! I had it on a lift stand and just let it idle to do the normal break in....Drop the lift so I can go cruise it around for a minute.....NO CLUTCH! At all, tightened it to the max, nothing... clutch in, or out has the same effect(NONE). I pulled the cable loose from inside the stator cover......drop it into first and it moves, but NO power at all. Total slippage. What the hell would cause that?!

Fultoncm · Apr 11, 2006

Hmm, might need to soak the clutch plates (can't remember what to soak them in, but my bro did this for me once and it gave my clutch new life), or maybe the cable needs adjusted more?

I got my bike back together today. New Wiseco and exhaust valve. Fired right up and holding 150+ compression. I love it. Tomorrow will be the first time I've had it out with the new carb, vforce reeds, and new piston. Hope you gets yours going. I've been down for months.

quik720 · Apr 12, 2006

Thats awsome you got yours alive! Ride a little for me...

I know its something simple, cause on the stand the rear whel spins through all gears and finds neutral perfectly..... I have a new Barnett Dirt Digger clutch, so I guess Ill put it in and see what happens! Ive been told you just soak the fiber's in the oil you plan on using for 10 minutes. Ill let you know how it all goes tomorrow..... cross your fingers for me! LOL

RM'ers... Help!

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