Splitting the case. Yamaha

bleeds · Nov 13, 2005

I have a question. Do I need a press or a machine shop to split the case of a 1997 Yamaha RT100J?
I would imagine that I need a wheel puller and stuff like to get inside, but do I need something to get them apart once all the bolts are out?
BLeeds?
PS Looking all over the net for an online, purchaseable, downloadable manual...ideas?

rm_racer · Nov 13, 2005

Im pretty sure your going to need a case splitter to get them apart after the bolts are out. Im pretty sure motion pro make a universal one.

bleeds · Nov 13, 2005

I read elsewhere on here that you can use a steering wheel puller to split the cases. I sure hope the service manual tells me where to put the bolts. I THINK we got a real good deal. It is a 1997 RT100J Like new cosmetic side. The rod bearing is bad, and the piston is cracked. We are going to replace the rod, bearings, top end, and most likely the cranshaft rod bearing "surface" under 180 for everthing. Only paid 350 for the bike. Hope we didnt get burned. WE got it from the same guy I got my CR250R from, and it was on the up and up like he said. We shall see. He said he was riding it the day before they took it apart, and he decided he didnt want to mess with it as he doesnt know alot about working on them.
We shall see..
Bleeds

crazy4nitro · Nov 14, 2005

I used a steering wheel puller to split the cases on my YZ85. I can get a picture of my set-up and e-mail you if you would like. I had to fab. some brackets to make it work.(to clear the case) I will get a picture of this in my gallery for the rest to see. the case tool is like $150.. :moon:

this worked perfectly....

Crazy4nitro

bleeds · Nov 14, 2005

Sounds great! I am waiting on the service manual too, so there isnt a real rush for now.:) Thanks again. I hope we didnt get burned on this..LOL..It also looks like we are going to need an impact screwdriver as well.
Bleeds
Oh and I am going to need to try to find a magneto puller too. It is the inline type. Where you thread it into the mag, then turn the center bolt to pull the mag off...

nickyd · Nov 14, 2005

how about the trusted old method of using a dead blow plastic mallet and tapping around the cases - I have had success with that but have also had to use a steering wheel puller as noted above

bleeds · Nov 14, 2005

At least I know there is at least a back up plan if I can get the steering wheel puller to work...LOL All I need now is to find out which one of these flywheel puller is the right one..LOL
Bleeds

crazy4nitro · Nov 14, 2005

ok i'm about to post the images to my gallery.

At "A" I used what ever bolts needed to connect the bracket that I made from 1" angle iron.

At "B" is where I intended to use the stator plate bolts but they were too short,but just so happened that the two long bolts in the picture were included in the case with the puller.

This puller got real tight so I took a 32oz hammer and hit the end of the threaded rod,then tighten it more and continue this process.

Check Eric Gorr's web site for nice instructions on case splitting,use this as well as the manual and you'll have no problem.

If anyone needs more pics or further explanation email me or post back..

Crazy

bleeds · Nov 14, 2005

Great pics. I dont think I will have access to the angle iron, but I can improvise with other things I am sure. I have never split a case like this before, but I am mechnically inclined so it shouldnt be TOO hard. I will get the wheel puller and go from there.
bleeds

One thing that I havent been able to understand yet is where to put the main bolt up against (wheel puller) and where to put the other bolts. I hope the manual explains this somewhat.

nickyd · Nov 14, 2005

you will bolt the puller itself to any holes you can find - usually there are some where the baseplate mounts to - the Main bolt will press on the end of the crankshaft - be gentle there and don't booger up the end of the crank - I put a small washer or penny in there to act as a buffer - OH and you will need Miller Lite to be successful....just kidding

Broken Spoke · Nov 14, 2005

I split the case on my CR250R using a dead blow hammer. I have also made pullers in the past with all thread rod and angle iron.

krumble · Nov 14, 2005

I have split the cases on my RT100, just get a cheap flywheel puller from any auto parts store, and just pry at it with screwdrivers. yes, you will need a special tool to pull the mag, I have one I could sell you. When you go to put the cases back together put one of the halves in the freezer for awhile to shrink it, makes it much easier to get back together.

bleeds · Nov 14, 2005

Well I have all the bolts out, but I am stuck. The drive sprocket is still on the engine, and I cant get it off. ONE, I cant tell which direction to turn the nut and TWO I cant figure out how to hold it from turning.. ideas? I Did get the mag off, with a puller easy as pie. Just that damned sprocket. I am guessing it will have to be removed...Oh one more thing...Left hand threads or right. (counter-clockwise off or clockwise off)
LOL
Bleeds

nickyd · Nov 15, 2005

the sprocket has a bolt right? its standard thread - leftie loosie. they make a tool to hold the clutch and flywheel - you'll be glad you have it when you go to re-tighten that flywheel - it also holds the clutch basket - motion pro makes it and your local shop should have it - it works well for holding the sprocket. is the motor already out? if so, shame on you - its easier to dissasemble 95% of it in the frame. If not, put the bike in gear, hold the back brake and loosen that nut.

bleeds · Nov 15, 2005

Sadly this was a basket bike. Engine was already off the frame. My brother and I are going to give it a go tonight to get it off the engine. I am going to wrap a towel around the inner clutch basket while he turns it with a socket and breaker bar. Any real risks of breaking the nut off? I dont think so, but I wanted to ask. Once we get that off, I think we will be home free. I am going to get a steering wheel puller tonight and give it a go. I think I put the main bolt on the crankshaft, on the flywheel side, and crank it down gently while taping on the cases. I am guessing though.
Bleeds

nickyd · Nov 15, 2005

is the primary gear still attached? If so just wedge a penny between it and the clutch drive gear - that will hold it.

As for the splitting - you have it - have you tried it w/o the puller? I did my first UMteen engines with no puller - I have only needed a the puller one time in about the last 15 engines.....sometimes they are more than happy to come apart with a plastic dead blow hammer - the hardest part it to find a place to hit on - DON"T bang excessively on the ear that mounts the kickstarter....its enticing but don't WHACK on it real hard - taps are fine but don't go nuts there - usually there are seams that overlap that you can aim at....use a piece of wood and an hammer if need be...oh, keep in mind if you use the puller, split it most of the way and then FLIP it - the tranny and crank usually like to say in the ignition side of the case....

crazy4nitro · Nov 15, 2005

I suggest finding someone with an air compressor and an impact gun to help remove stubborn nuts. I have never needed any holding tool using this method. I have tried the penny trick with little success as the engine moves too much and is hard to hold still.

Crazy

bleeds · Nov 15, 2005

Well with the help of all you guys, the case is officially split. The sprocket didnt have to come off. It wasnt even in the way. Used a steering wheel puller, and a little bit of care and POP came right apart. Going to have to get the crank split though so I can put the new rod and rod bearing on it. I figure I should replace the crank pin since the other rod bearing went out. It looks ok from what little I can see, but it probably should be replaced. There was no other damage inside the case. The flywheel side bearing came out with the crank. I sure hope that was ok.. or normal. Anyway, a friend I work with has a set of calipers and he is measuring the piston to make sure it is the std piston so we can get all the parts ordered. Wish me luck. Hope this all works out. I am doing this for experience and to get a friend into riding. It is his bike and his money. Still cant get him on my CR250R but he rides his sons KX80 and that little bit got him hooked..
I hope this thing screams!!!
Bleeds

Broken Spoke · Nov 17, 2005

Just curious, how much will it cost you to have the crank split, buy new rod and rod bearing, buy new crank pin, have it all put back together, and balanced. I think you can get everything new for a little more money.

bleeds · Nov 17, 2005

The labor is only 45 bucks, the parts arent much more. I dont have the prices in front of me, but I know if we replace everything, (rebuild top, and fix the bottom) it is on going to be 250 including tax and labor.
Bleeds

crazy4nitro · Nov 17, 2005

I have seen Hot Rod crank assemblys on *sleezE-Bay :nener: * for my bike for like $142 with shipping,check with them they might have them for your model.

Crazy

bleeds · Nov 18, 2005

Called wiseco, they dont make a Hot Rod for rt100. Oh well, it was a good try..
Bleeds

crazy4nitro · Nov 18, 2005

I think Wiseco and "Hot Rod" are two diff. companies..? if not someone correct me please.

Crazy

bleeds · Nov 18, 2005

I called Wiseco, and they call their rod/crank kits Hot Rod. Nonetheless, everything is ordered, and now all we do is wait..
Bleeds

Splitting the case. Yamaha

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