Spring Preload Questions??

[joe28kdx]

I just installed my Gold Valving from Race Tech I got through Freddette. Man,it wasn't hard!! For years I was sending them out!!
I swapped the fork spring last summer for a set of ATK 21 lbs from an 88 KX125 I raced back then. I cut the spacer to make the ATK springs/spacer the same size as the stockers. It worked really well with 7.5 weight oil at 100mm and 12 clicks out.
Now the questions.
I got my print out on all my setting from Race-Tech. I needed 10 mm of preload. so I screw the fork cap on, measure from the top of the spring to the cap add 10mm and cut a spacer. This is @30mm shorted than the last set up. I figure I won't think and follow instructions to the "T".
I put 130mm of oil of 5 wt. oil in,(another oddity) and assemble the forks. I know it makes them plush but, it kinda mushy cuz theres less preload. This is just pushing one down against the other un valved, bigger spacer fork.
Questions;
1. Am I on the right track with Preload?
2. What will I find with less preload, how should I know if I have to add more??
3. Does anyone else run 5 wt instead of 7.5/10?? with the valving?
4. Does Fredette have a Tech Hot line I could call and pick thier brain??
I try riding it, but it like 10 degrees out and snow covered . It rained and now it all icy.:ugg:
I wonder now if I did the right thing. I had the forks working really good, and thought what if.....
Joe
2001 KDX 200
2- 2001 TTR 125, Boy "A"'s and boy "B"'s
I use-ta be good at this:uh:

 

[MN KDXer]

Joe-

Yeah, those KDX forks are EASY, aren't they? Something else to know, is that if you want to pull the basevalves w/o disassembly, you can lay the bike on its side so that the forks are aimed above horizontal, and gun the B valves out. (be sure to clamp tranny and fuel tank lines)

1. Yes, correct procedure. You might want to add a mm or two w/ new springs as they will likely sack in a little bit.
2. More preload = less front end static sag. Less preload = droopey front end. If you find that the suspension seems to ride too low in the travel, then try more preload.
3. Depending on your spring weight, you may want 5 wt. The 7wt is to slow down the rebound.
4. If you can get Jeff on the horn, he will answer some Q's, at least he used to answer my lame Q's. Make sure that you are to the point and have your Q's all lined up + ready.

Q 4 U- Did Jeff suggest the 5wt at 130mm? Just curious, he had told me to use 7wt @ 100mm. That, was with the .38 springs.

 

[joe28kdx]

Followed Race Tech Directions

I don't believe I asked when I purchased them. I just assumed I'd run 100mm 7.5 weight and the preload I already had. You know what happens when you assume!!!
I followed the print out Race Tech set up for me, it's thier set up I'm using after all. I e-Mail them to ask , I hope I get a reply! I'll get a chance to try it today. I had to lube the shock ****ing assy last night, they were a little stiff. Weirder yet, Race tech suggest I run sag at 95 mm. All my clickers were close to thiers so I know I'm on the right track.
I'll try it, I figured I was right but, you know when it's radically different from your set up you gotta wonder.
It was stiff, but I'm comming over from a MX/SX back ground and I guess naturally I set it up for that.
Thanks for the info, it settled my mind!!
Joe
I go, I hit tree, I get up, I shake my head, I go, I hit rock. I get up, I shake my head........;)

 

[canyncarvr]

error in following racetech setup?

No.

The error was 'cutting a spacer the same size' when changing springs. For one thing, the OEM preload is ridiculous. For two, you didn't say if the free length of the spring was the same.

10mm is plenty if your springs are any good. Putting in more preload to make up for the possibility of a collapsing spring is a bandaid approach to using a crummy spring in the first place.

100 vs: 95mm of sag is probably a matter of preference. I've tried several settings. I prefer 100mm. You'll find that a 95 setting will reduce your free sag. Depending on your shock spring in the first place (whether it's right for your weight), you HAVE to have a correct free sag measurement. Less than 15mm and I'd be wondering what was wrong.

Using the volume measurement method to put oil in the forks is fine for a makeup, but what about maintenance? The forks won't be completely dry (as in a makeup after service), so adding a set amount won't tell you what's in there! If you use the oil level method, you'll always know what you've got..what you're adding to or subtracting from.

And, no..changing a valving assy isn't hard. Deciding which of 20-30 washers of different diameters/thickness to put in what order in the stack..now THERE'S some science.

Well, and some smoke, mirrors, eye-of-newt, and incantation.

 

[joe28kdx]

Checking the oil height

I measured from the top of the fork with it collasped is how I get the oil level. Later next time I change it,(about ever 2 weeks) I dump and measure cuz it gives me a starting spot, but I alway measure with this home made measurer/sucker outter.
The more I think about it the more I think, I'll try it and if it's great I leave it alone, if not, I think I better get the springs they recommend. I ran these springs one hard MX season and 1/2 off road sooo, they're probaly tired. I don't know the life of them, but if I'm going through all this, what's a new set of springs?? This way there can be less chance of an error in set up. Race Tech gives the part# of the springs, sooo....
Thanks for the info
Joe
The older I get the more "armor" I wear, pretty soon I won't have to ride, the eqt. will!! ;)

 

[KruncH]

Joe,

I too just installed Gold valves in mine from Fredette. I did asked Jeff about spacers, oil weight, etc... and he said use the stock spacers, oil level was 100mm from top and use 7wt.

Hope this helps.

 

[acutemp]

Joe,
I run 5 wt. oil with my gold valves at 120mm. You can reuse the stock spacer but you will still want to set your preload. I run mine at 10mm and have my clickers set to 12 out, this with a ch8 stack and .38 springs, sag set to 98-100 and a 4.8 spring.--Dan

 

[MN KDXer]

C-Carver,

You again... ;) A couple of extry mm of preload is NOT going to break the bank, and yes, the springs WILL sag slightly. Up here in snowmobile land, clutch springs commonly will lose a little of their tension/height after a week or so, which makes calibration a moving target if you are calibrating with a brandy new spring. Even the best of the best springs will lose a little tension.

BTW, There is not 20-30 shims in a GV fork stack. Try more like 10 or so. The shock has about 17 on the compression stack.

 

[canyncarvr]

RmGuY:

YOU again..........:ugg:

..20-30 shims..

An (sic..that's a joke) hyperbolic statement.

re: extra preload and bank breaking..

Whew! Good thing! Otherwise, kawi would be broke for sure what with the 100mm (see above) or so preload that comes OEM.

 

[r.2 stroke]

the stock preload ,with stock springs etc, is about 20mm:moon:

 

[canyncarvr]

re: 'about' 20mm

My '00 200 was 29mm (with a 470mm oem spring and a 90mm oem spacer).

What's a few mm amongst friends?

re: 100mm preload.

As foghorn leghorn would say, 'Thassa joke, son!' :D

 

[r.2 stroke]

foghorn leghorn

Yep,ditto on those stock spring and preload measurements for my 99' 220r Cap't bighorn!:p