Sprocket and Chain Recommendations

iggy · May 4, 2005

Time for a new sprocket and chain. I ride a 2002 KDX200 with stock chain and sprocket currently. Any recommendations as to type and brand for replacement? Steel vs. aluminum? I ride trails and do not ride tracks or race.

Thanks!

03KDXHOPPER · May 4, 2005

Whatever you choose, replace the front, rear, and chain as a set. If you're interested in more torque, go to a 51 tooth rear, 13tooth countershaft, and 110 link chain.

Brands? Sunstar is good... DID for the chain. That's what I go with anyway. If you stick with factory tooth settings (13 front, 47 rear), it takes a 108 link chain just FYI.

Idaho Charley · May 4, 2005

On the KDX I would go with steel sprockets and a good o-ring/x-ring chain. I like the DID x-ring chains because they last longer than any others that I have tried. They are expensive though.

JT makes a good steel sprocket but Sunstar, PBI, and Moose also are good in my book.

kingsxjt · May 5, 2005

I run 13/50 with a 110 link x-ring. I really like the lower gearing. I bought everything from Rocky Mtn. Primary Drive brand and it is holding up just fine! I did go ahead and replace the chain guide with a Fredette unit to compensate for the larger chain ring and wider chain.

Joe Diver · May 5, 2005

I'm looking at replacing sprockets/chain, in addition to back tire. I also prefer trails and that's what the bike is mainly setup for. Is this 13/51/110 advice also valid for the 220?

:)

mattmcphail · May 5, 2005

I've got a KDX 200 and I run renthal sprockets. I think at 13/49 I should probably know this by heart, but I don't. I have an MSR O-ring chain. It was a little cheaper than the others, and as a primarily recreational rider as well, they hold up great and i saved a few bucks as well, woo hoo!

Makeshoes · May 5, 2005

I put stock gearing from Renthal (front and back) on my son's KDX200. Used a Parts Unlimited O-ring chain. Bought all the stuff from Dennis Kirk. He has been on it for a rear and we still haven't had to adjust the chain!

John Harris · May 5, 2005

Most weekend trail riders use steel sprokets--cheaper, stronger, and last longer. If you use stock 47 tooth rear and o-ring chain, then you can continue to use stock chain guide (chain will wear the correct size guide hole in it fast) and stock length chain and use either 12 or 13 tooth front/drive sprokets. Easy to change front sproket for you immediate riding needs. Same chain and sprokets on 200 and 220. Cheers John

Quailchaser · May 5, 2005

Joe Diver said:
I'm looking at replacing sprockets/chain, in addition to back tire. I also prefer trails and that's what the bike is mainly setup for. Is this 13/51/110 advice also valid for the 220?

:)

All of the sprocket manufacturers mentioned in the is thread are good. As far as the 220, I ran a 12/47 (same as 13/51) combo with the stock 100/100-18 tire and did not like it. I was constantly shifting and first gear was way to low for the slippery stuff.

From monkeybuttparts.com, I picked up some JT steel sprockets in 13/50 combo with a 110 link DID o-ring chain and went to a 110/100-18 tire size. I think that effectively put the gearing around 13/49 and works great. 2nd and 3rd gear handles the tight and steep stuff without tons of shifting.

Later
Robb

Joe Diver · May 6, 2005

Currently my back tire is a 130/80 - 18 S12....but I'm looking to replace it and am leaning toward the Maxxis IT....I think the size will be 120/100, or at least that's what Cycle Gear has available. If I change to this size, would the 13/50 suit me better? I'd like to do 80% of my riding in 2nd/3rd, only using 1st for the more difficult hill climbs. Also, as John pointed out in another reply, I didn't realize I may be in trouble with the stock chain guide if I make some changes...I assume there are others, or some kind of adapter?

John Harris · May 6, 2005

Mitchlin tire sizes are different from everyone else. There are pages of discussion on this issue and I can't make much input, but the tire you have on and the one you are going to are the same size for all practical purposes. My suggestion would be to leave your gearing ie chain/sprokets where they are when you change tires. I am sure this is not worth even the $.02 others impart. Ride Safe & come to Barnwell Mountain in East Texas to ride sometime. John

Quailchaser · May 6, 2005

Joe Diver said:
Currently my back tire is a 130/80 - 18 S12....but I'm looking to replace it and am leaning toward the Maxxis IT....I think the size will be 120/100, or at least that's what Cycle Gear has available. If I change to this size, would the 13/50 suit me better? I'd like to do 80% of my riding in 2nd/3rd, only using 1st for the more difficult hill climbs. Also, as John pointed out in another reply, I didn't realize I may be in trouble with the stock chain guide if I make some changes...I assume there are others, or some kind of adapter?

As John also pointed out Michlin uses different sizing numbers. If you use the search feature, you'll find lots of threads on this subject. A 120/100 -18 Maxxis will be too wide. Stick to the 110/100 (except for Michlin and thier odd numbering system). Hard to beat the Michlin's from what I've read. I personally don't like the Maxxis IT's...for me the IT was unpredictable for the first 80 miles of ST and then only lasted about another 150 miles. But...some people love them!

13/50 on the 220 with a 110/100 tire....As I said earlier, 2nd and 3rd on just about everything until it opens up a bit. I rarely ever get into 1st. I put on the Moose (aka Fredette) chain guide...but mine stock one was pretty much destroyed. I think some people have filed down the insert on the stock guide to get the bigger sprockets to fit. However, Fredette guide is much stronger than the stock one.

Later
Robb

Joe Diver · May 6, 2005

Great advice...thanks a bunch....

I was at Cycle Gear today and put the Maxxis IT 110/100 side by side with the 120/80 S12....not much difference at all....

I've been trying to get out to BMRA since I bought my Jeep last fall, but just haven't made it yet. We will though....now that I have 2 ORV's to play with... :)

Dirt Bike Dan · May 14, 2005

I've got a similar question. I need to get new chain and sprockets for my 250. Stock gearing is 14-52. Checking Tucker Rocky, the only 52 I can find is aluminum, so that won't work. Would I notice a change to a 51 or 53? I like the gearing as it is now; I've never had it fully wound out, yet first is already super low for the worst conditions. In the chart I looked at, they only listed one size specifically for the 250, but that is a 15-45. The same sprockets are listed under the 200 of the same year ('83). so I assume the bolt patterns are the same? If not, any ideas what I could do?

EDIT

Nevermind... I'm just mildy retarded and didn't see my bike listed a little further down. Seems stock is actually 14-50. How does that compare with the 14-52 I have now? And stock chain is 520-116, would I need the 118? One final question: I'd like to get an O-ring, and wonder if anyone has tried Bikemaster. It is definetly cheap quality, but you can get a standard 25 ft. roll for 80 bucks. Any other recommendations?

slapthemat · May 18, 2005

well the only diff between the 200-220 is the engine so i guess it would be the same.

Mrobbins · May 19, 2005

97 220 and run 13/50 Moose alum rear sprocket. with 110 link o-ring with TM Designworks chain guide. Good durable set up lasts a full riding season. Chain was tight on the guide when new, but no friction after first ride. 1st gear is pretty low, hardly use it. Set up lets me run in 3rd most of the time with a lot less shifting.

john_bilbrey · May 22, 2005

I picked up the PD chain from rocky mountain on the cheap, along with a 13/50 sprocket combo. Seems like I went with steel (cheaper). The 13/50 made a big difference in the way the bike handles everything. With stock gearing, first gear was almost useless on hill climbs because it wound out to early - you couldn't keep enough momentum to keep going. Now, I can get up the hills in 2nd, and keep the momentum up. As you know, momentum is your friend on the hills. On the sandy fire roads, I'll hit 6th briefly, but never wind it too tight for too long (I ain't that brave!). I went up on the rear rather than dropping one in the front to save wear on the chain. The guide did rub for a bit, but it's fine now.

Sprocket and Chain Recommendations

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