Starting in gear

[23jayhawk]

I have found it almost impossible to restart in gear, unless the conditions are such that I have a step of some kind for my left foot. I have short leg syndrome, so this is aggrevated by the high starter lever.

It seems like the clutch drag is part of the problem. I use a name brand 10W30 oil, and keep it fresh. But there is still a noticeable drag when I try to start.

Will going to ATF improve this? I'm hoping to avoid another 'what gearbox oil do you use here'. Just wondering if others have/had the same problem, and how they solved it.

 

[canyncarvr]

My bike isn't 'almost impossible', but it is certainly quite a bit more difficult.

A slight AS change will likely make the bike much easier to start when it's hot.

I gather the 'syndrome' issue has to do not with reaching the oem lever when it's at the top of the stroke, but how far down it goes?

How about a fredette kicker? You end up with the sole of your boot on top of the peg vs: ending up below the peg. That's a few inches you'd gain.

Noone has shorter legs than mine. (Well...there is the guy I saw loading his bike last week that had only one leg. His left leg was only an inch or two long. That's shorter than mine! What a go-getter attitude he's got to have!!). I think the fredette kicker would help.

Still there's a mix of issues..hard to start in gear and insufficient reach. Try your AS in 1/8 and a fredette lever.

I run 10w-30 motor oil in the cooler months.

 

[TVRider]

I have tried the ATF for a clutch drag problem on my GasGas, it didn't work. It may be worth trying anyway. The next suggestion was that my clutch plates were warped so they would never disengage fully. I haven't had a chance to check that out yet.

I also have short leg syndrome. I have to get my left foot on the peg and balance while I find the kick lever and give it a shot. I guess the trials helps with the balance issue. I will probably lower my KDX a little by moving the forks up in the triple clamps and either cutting the seat foam or longer dog bones.

Good Luck,

Tom

 

[23jayhawk]

CC - the problem is caused by the height of the kicker at the top of the stroke, and the distance away from the bike when it's extended. I end up kicking out & down, while straddling across the seat. Once I can create any kind of spin, the bike lights off just fine.

Since I've got the SIDI's I can't feel the da** shifter drop into neutral, and after futzing around with the gears long enough I just start kicking. I've thought about the FRP kicker, but it's another 'nice to have' that may have to wait. Does it stay closer to the side of the bike when extended than the stocker?

 

[TVRider]

Jayhawk,

That Fredette lever is about $60 bucks. Another option is the Hybrid lever that is under Tech Tips at JustKDX. This takes a kick lever from an '89 KX125 and combines it with the lower stock assembly from the KDX. The problem is the KX125 lever assembly is over $90 new from Kaw! But if you could find a used one from someone parting out a KX125, you might get a bargain.

 

[canyncarvr]

But wait! There's more!!

Putting either kicker on a used knuckle is likely a shortcut to a waste of time.

I put fredette's kicker on a new knuckle. Didn't replace the cheapo-junk spring that tensions the check ball. Should have.

re: Does it stay closer?

Yep.

There is an sheet that should come with the kicker that has notes regarding where it may need to be massaged some on install (metal removed). Read and heed or there may be major part failure.

Getting any o-ring to fit with the FRP kicker is fun. It is a t-i-g-h-t fit!

Once you get used to the shorty, you'll wonder why you waited to get one! The cast oem unit is such a wonky, goobered POS it's ridiculous.

You (well, I do) do need to keep the joint on the new assy clean and lubed. It fits so tight that you'll find it difficult to swing it out with your toe...seeing as you can't feel anything with your boot (as you say) and the short lever tucks in pretty tight to the bike. That's a bit of problem if you're trying to restart on a hill that even the teensy front brake on such a slope is the only thing keeping you from certain death!

Of course, in which case you should just turn around and give it another go from the bottom! ;)

.....or save it for another day! Yeah! That sounds better!!

 

[TVRider]

CC,

I have thought about doing this mod, my bike is spanking new. So is now the time to do it since my knuckle is "new".

Thanks,

Tom

 

[canyncarvr]

Yes. It is time.

You must buy new stuff for your new bike!

It's the law! ;)

BTW..'clean and lube' not having anything to do with taking the lever off. The o-rings are way too much of a hassle for that. I squirt some teflon in the joint and work it around until it works better and some of the goo is out of it.

Another BTW...the circlip that holds the kicker on isn't much for spring, either. Real good chance of it being sprung after you take it off. Even with the correct tool (I used a set of snap ring pliers, epanded it j-u-s-t enough to get it off the knuckle and it was sprung anyway. I replaced mine) it can still get goobered.

Good luck.

Read the install sheet from FRP!

 

[John Harris]

I don't believe anyone has address clutch drag, which can make starting in gear almost impossible. Adjust your cable so that you have good release when you pull the clutch lever all the way in. You do not want the clutch to slip when released for sure, but correct adjustment so that it is completely released when the clutch lever is pulled is vital to starting in gear!

 

[rethnal]

Mine drags too... but when in a situation where I am in gear and have to start it on a hill, it always seems to start fine without finding neutral. It grabs at first and starts to lurch but then releases and all is good. I'm not saying that I do this all the time but in an emergency situation.... it works just fine. :eek: