Steering Head torque for 01 KX 250?

YZThumper

~SPONSOR~
Aug 6, 2001
145
0
Bought a used 2001 KX 250 and after the first ride the steering head/stem bearings are toast. I had the bike apart when I bought it to lube everything, and I suspected the steering head/stem bearings were border-line, but I figured I could clean and lube them to squeeze one season out of them. They seemed to spin freely, so I thought I was home free. Now I have three questions:

1) How much torque should I put on the steering head nut? The manual says 58 ft/lbs but it can't be right. When I torque it to that spec, the assembly would bind and not turn smooth. I backed it off a little, but I'm starting to wonder if the torque was still to tight and that's what caused the top bearing to go bad.

2) OEM bearings are expensive as hell. Are the aftermarket bearings suitable? If so, what brand would you recommend (i.e. Pivot Works, All Balls, etc)?

3) This is bike specific. There is a very thin metal washer with a rubber outer seal that goes directly on top of the to steering stem bearing. Is there supposed to be an additional all rubber seal that goes on top of the entire assembly?
 
B

biglou

I bet the torque spec is for the nut on the top of the triple clamp. I think it's 75 ft. lbs for Yamahas (don't quote me on that). The nut directly over that thin washer (spanner nut, right?), I usually tighten by feel. Tighten down by hand as far as you can while holding the front end up into the head tube, then go another 1/2-1 turn with channel locks, then back off and then re-seat. I like my steering to just barely flop to one side when sitting on a stand. There should be no play front to back when you grab the front wheel and push/pull on it. There also shouldn't be any notchy feel to it when turning on the stand.
 

soulmate33

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Sep 29, 2004
158
0
To me aftermarket bearings are OK. Not worth the dealer price to just turn handle bars on a dirt bike, maybe if it were for road racing @ 100+ mph.

-Top bearing first
-thin washer w/ rubber dust seal
-adjusting notched nut (I preload this one by feel also while bike on stand, 5.1 ft. lbs. for CR's)
-top triple clamp
-thin washer
-1 1/4" nut (torque to 80 ft. lbs.for CR's.)
 

nickyd

Member
Sep 22, 2004
873
0
the spanner nut should be just tight enough to compress the bearings (and to take the 'rock' out of the front end - grab the clamps and rock forward and back - when there is no slop, you are good).
 

Welcome to DRN

No trolls, no cliques, no spam & newb friendly. Do it.

Top Bottom