railer

Member
Nov 4, 2005
125
0
1998 RM125. Clutch doesn't disengage all the way. Tried filing out the notches in the basket already, but doesn't seem to help. When the bike is cold, shifting into first is realllllly jerky. After it warms up, it's not so bad, but it still drags real bad. If I have to restart it, if it's in gear and the lever is pulled in, when I kick it, the bike pulls forward and it's hard to start. Idling is another problem. When in neautral, it idles fine, but in gear with the cluthlever pulled in, it won't. Is this just the way things are, or is something funky with my clutch? Should I try replacing the clutch springs? Does my cable need replacement? Lube job?

Also, on the kickstarter, I have to replace the oil seal. Can I just unscrew the kickstarter from the outside and replace it, or will I have to break down the bottom end to get inside and do it?

Thanks much,
Brian.
 

dezryder

Member
Feb 23, 2006
321
0
"Should I try replacing the clutch springs?"

Weak clutch springs cause clutch slip. That's not the problem you describe. Dumb question maybe: but did you adjust your cable out to get more release? Major adjustments are done on the bottom, minor at the perch.

Re your seal question, isn't it the same case you had to remove to work on the clutch basket?
 

railer

Member
Nov 4, 2005
125
0
I did adjust the perch. I know enough to do that, but when it comes to pulling the motor apart, I'm a little timid. It really just feels like the clutch plates aren't slipping easily once I pull the lever in (as if the basket was notched up), but I had a friend pull it out and check it, and it's fine. Not sure what to try next.

Brian.
 

railer

Member
Nov 4, 2005
125
0
woops...about the seal, no, because when you pull out the clutch plates and gears, it does not expose the kick start.

Brian.
 

dezryder

Member
Feb 23, 2006
321
0
Adjust it out until you are actually causing the clutch to slip when riding in gear, clutch lever fully out. If that ends the creeping/draging, then just adjust it back in far enough to end the slippage and render you a tiny bit of freeplay at the lever.
 

dezryder

Member
Feb 23, 2006
321
0
Kick start lever goes through the same sidecase as covers the clutch. You must have been only removing the smaller clutch cover. Taking the sidecase off is no biggie. If you need a new gasket when putting it back together...put a thin film of wheelbearing grease on both sides of the new gasket. That way you won't have to replace it next time you remove the sidecase. (It won't tend to stick and tear when pulling the case)
 

railer

Member
Nov 4, 2005
125
0
yea, I was just wondering if I have to go through all that or can I just unscrew the exposed bolt on the actual kickstart lever and be able to replace it or if I unscrew that bolt will that mess things up inside the case...

I would send a picture, but I don't know how to get pictures in this...know how?
 
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