Stupid Cartridges!!!!

JonB · Apr 26, 2004

O.K. I have an 03 KX250 and I've spent a few hours over the last couple days reading about and looking for the best way to get the cartridges apart. It's not like it's my first time taking cartridges apart either. I modified the mid-valve on my 01 YZ426F. They were difficult to get apart but not impossible. I used lots of heat and a tool made out of PVC.
Well, on the KX cartridges, I have not had any luck. I tried the heat and home made PVC tool with no luck. The cartridge was so hot the PVC tool melted. Then I bought the Motion Pro cartridge tool. Even with lots of heat (I used propane and then Map gas for good measure), smacking the cartridge with a hammer, and using the steel cartridge tool I can't get the stupid things apart.
I was hoping for any other tips for getting these apart. I was thinking of modifying a 1/2" drive socket and using an impact gun. I also live just down the street from Factory Connection and may just bring the cartridges up there to see if they can get them apart.

Thanks, Jon

marcusgunby · Apr 26, 2004

I had a similar problem on the new KX, you have to get them silly hot-to the point where they are smoking bad, i was concerned the cv or the bushes may be damaged but they worked all season.Dont try to do it any other way-it will rip the threads off.

Ive heard of people unpeening the bottoming cone and refitting it.Never done it myself,but it can be done.

DEANSFASTWAY · Apr 26, 2004

Ive got this ice cube maker that has a hole in the center of the ice cube and I slides the ice cube over the Damper rod after I heats the cartridge tube then I taps with a small peen around the spring plate area and she comes right off .A local around here is real good and he does alot of his stuff through the bottom , he must have done alot of homework . I thought at first he was unrolling the folded over half moon retainers under the cone but not. You know even if you unscrew the new oil lock pieces the cartridge on the new stuff(kyb) doesnt come apart, I thought theyu had given us a present finally but not yet. As for working from the bottom:Me I couldnt be so lucky Id surely pinch the valving or something . Id much rather have a good look also. Me sleeps better too.

JonB · Apr 27, 2004

Thanks for the replys. I'm a little lost, OK maybe a lot lost, when it comes to the bottoming cones though. I'm following the heat, cold, hammer removal process but the rest has me in the dark. I'm assuming these cones must be inside the cartridge and on the dampening rod? I assume I must need to get the catridge apart first? I do see how I may be able to work on them through the bottom but it looks much harder and more risky then just taking them apart.
The cartridges I'm looking at now and trying to get apart look 100% like my 01 YZ426F KYB stuff did. That is why I assume these cones must inside the cartridge.
Jon

marcusgunby · Apr 27, 2004

The cone is the small peened on part that sits near the bottom of the damper rod, its not really a cone as such on the late model KX. It goes inside the top of the cartridge when the fork is bottomed, if you remove it the rod will fall straight through.

DEANSFASTWAY · Apr 27, 2004

The 125 has different forks than 250 but on 125 and newer KYB stuff they got away from the rubber bottom out system and use an oil lock and bottoming cone for last inch of travel so your forks wont klank on bottoming . it gets mixed reviews .Marcus and i were just talking about other forks for a second there , sorry .On your forks you might have to drill the peened over section just a bit . they stake the outer cartride tube in 4 spots . you must drill through the outer cart only , very carefully . you might already know this if not dop a search as its been discussed before . the last time I did an 03 KX 125 it was not peened . 04 125 got the bladders back.

JonB · Apr 27, 2004

OK thanks!! I don't trust myself to remove the little bottoming ring from the dampener rod. On my 01 YZ426F there were four punch marks that had to be drilled. On the 03 KX250 there are no punch marks.
I put the forks back together just changing the base valve stacks so I could ride this weekend. I will have time to get them apart in a week or so and will heat the crap out of them this time.
I just don't want to cook something though....

Jeff Howe · Apr 27, 2004

I'd like to hear how it goes with the massive heat.

JonB · Apr 27, 2004

Shocknut said:
I'd like to hear how it goes with the massive heat.

Do you think I will run into trouble?

Jeff Howe · Apr 28, 2004

I'm nuetral, I'm just saying I'd like to hear how it goes.

DEANSFASTWAY · Apr 28, 2004

Jonb its more in the tecnique than the heat . Youll only want to heat it up enough to soften the loctite.Sometimes I dont even heat the part right up by the top Ill heast like 1/4 way down the tube and that helps keep the cart top cooler . Also then the cart top breaks loose its better done with like a quick twist than constant pressure. Ive never had to get them super duper hot to get them free. Go Slow

marcusgunby · Apr 28, 2004

With mine i just got it hot enough to be able to turn the tubes, you know you have the right heat as you feel the threadlock give, however i do remember jeff(shocknut) saying how he lightly raps on the threaded part with a hammer and that can work without using heat.

jeff will let us know if i have his technique right.

Jeff Howe · Apr 28, 2004

I never use heat. Yes I just rap on the cartridge all the way around it to break the loctite loose. I have messed up ONE cartridge and it was the only one I ever heated. Screw that, too expensive for me to be replacing tubes.

JonB · Apr 29, 2004

I think when I have them apart in a couple days I will try and get the little chrome ring off the dampening rod.
I hear what you both are saying about heat vs. no heat and taping on the cartridge to break the locktite. I have tried heating the cartridge in different spots, tapping on it, using even presure with heat, trying a quick twist with and without heat. I have tried the techniques on both catriges as well just to see if only one was going to be difficult. I have put so much pressure on the cartrige caps with the Motion Pro cartrige tool it started to marr up the cartrige cap. I had the cartrige in a cartrige holder in the bench vise with a person holding a screwdriver through the holes at the open end of the tube to make sure the cartridge didn't slip.

It's just another day in my life!!!!!!! I think they used JB Weld instead of Locktite when they built my forks.

Stupid Cartridges!!!!

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