Suspension Removal Newbee

[CanadianRidr]

Hi,
Well I am getting ready to take off my forks and rear shock, but I just wanted to get some insider tips and hints from the pros. Now I hear taking the forks out is a pretty simple job, however I am more affraid of tightening a pinch bolt too tight and snapping it or even worse not tight enough and have the forks blow through me :scream:
So what are my best options? Get the bike on the center stand and get all the junk to the side etc....bars, plastic, wheel, caliper,
and then just loosten off the pinch bolts and that's it? Any order?
Is putting the tubes back in easy?
Now is there a order to tighten up the pinch bolts? The manual says 14 ft pounds on the bottom and 16 ft on the top, Now are you sure nothing will break or come loose? :(

Okay on to the shock, this is on a 01cr250, do I need to remove the rear tire to get the shock off? I just figured it would be the subframe, seat etc, the remove the 2 bolts. But the manual says take off the wheel too :think:

Okay and lastly, any kind of loc-tites, anti-seizes, lubes etc I need>?
'
Thanks again everyone :aj:

All comments and tips are appriciated

 

[JTT]

You description of removing the forks seem right. No, nothing should break or come loose. When you loosen the clamps the tubes will slide right out. Keep a hand on the tube as you loosen the last bolt though, as it will often drop right out under it's own weight.

As for the shock, you can remove it with the rear wheel on, it just makes it a little easier to remount with the wheel off (the swingarm alone is lighter to move around while aligning bolts).

No chemicals needed, if you are just removing. But, why not take this time to lube the linkage and steering head bearings? Remember to tighten the pinch bolts a little at a time, alternating between the two bolts (so that they clamp evenly).

 

[CanadianRidr]

Thanks for the reply JTT :)
I just greased all the bearings, linkage etc....I then blew a fork seal the next weekend, and have been longing to get my suspension done.

I heard it's possible to tighten the pinch botls to much and the tubes will actually collapse?? Is this true :scream: My worries are basically tighten to much and smoosh the tubes, or not enough and smoosh me.

How bout taking the rear wheel off? Reccomended? Or just an extra step. When I greased the linkage we left everything on, I just held the wheel while my buddy put the bolt back in :)

 

[JTT]

Use a decent torque wrench on the fork clamps and you should have no problems. You would have to be very "ham handed" to crush the tubes :eek:

As for the rear wheel, no big deal, leave it on if you want. Who's doing your suspenders?

 

[greaser]

Even if you didn't tighten up you forks right and they did come up , the handlebars would stop them from impaling you . LOL

See ya

 

[dell30rb]

:) :) :)

Thats a good joke, but I wouldnt trust my grip holders!

 

[yzeater]

One VERY helpful trick I learned from Jeremy W. If your top shock bolt doesn't slide out easily, lift up the rear wheel and it will loosen everything up. Also make sure that your swingarm / chain doesn't crush the chain rollers when the shock is off

 

[CanadianRidr]

wow thanks for the tips EVERYONE....:) Mojo for you all

Pro-Action is doing my suspension, since they are local and gurantee I will like the suspension or they will re-do it till I do :aj:

 

[CanadianRidr]

Okay I need some more help and decided not to start a new post.

When my suspension all comes back, what are your best tips for putting it back on? Getting everything alined up front?

thanks again :cool:

 

[JTT]

There is a good tip on Jer's website on aligning forks (by John Curea, I believe...great guy!), but here's what I do. Slide the forks into the clamps and tighten. Install the front wheel. Tighten the axle nut, then the axle clamps on the brake rotor side. Now go back over to the other side. Grab the lower fork leg and attempt to move it side to side. It will move very slightly on the axle. Allow it to find it's "natural" position and tighten the bolts. This will ensure the leg is not "bound" and that everything is neutral.

 

[CanadianRidr]

Once again thanks a lot JTT. I sent that article to myself since my work computer lacks pretty much everything but internet explorer and my work software ;) But definately a good tip :)

 

[bscottr]

CR,
One tip I've found helpful is to dab a little grease or penetrating oil on the threads of the upper/lower T-clamp pinch bolts. Prevents them from "ratcheting" in and provides a better torque reading. Alternate between them several times as JTT described. I use the same procedure on my axle pinch bolts BTW.

Good Luck,
Scott

 

[CanadianRidr]

I planned on using anti seize, should I take the bolts completly out or just dab the exposed threads?

Also quick question about Jeremy's instructions. He says spin the wheel and grab the brake. Now the manual says to bouce the suspension. Should I do this too? If so when should I do it inbetween jeremy's instructions? Meaning I will have to take the bike off the center stand at some point??

Here are his instructions for you to see.

1. Put bike on a stand that will enable front tire to be off the ground.
2. Install forks in triple clamps, Ensure that both forks are the same height in the triple clamps, (refer to your owners manual for the correct dimension). Also, make sure that the bleed screws are towards the front, this will make bleeding the air from your forks easier.
3. Tighten each bolt (in an alternating fashion) in the top clamps to 220 inlbs.
4. Tighten the lower clamp pinch bolts to 168 inlbs. (Over tightening of the lower pinch bolts may result in a mid-stroke harshness condition).
5. Install front wheel assembly sometimes it helps to pry the brake pads apart a little with a screw driver before bringing the wheel into position).
6. BEFORE tightening any pinch bolts go ahead and fully tighten the axel nut. (If you cannot hold the axel to tighten the nut, go ahead and tighten the right side pinch bolts just to hold the axel while you tighten the nut. MAKE sure you loosen the right side axel nut pinch bolts before you proceed any further).
7. Spin the front wheel and abruptly apply front brake, repeat this a few times.
8. Let off of the front brake and tighten the left side (caliper side) pinch bolts to manufacturer recommended torque rating.
9. Again, spin the front wheel and abruptly apply front brake, repeat a few times.
10. Tighten right side pinch bolt to recommended torque value.

 

[bscottr]

CR,
I take my bolts completely out the first time I lube 'em.

Take the bike off the stand between steps 6 and 7. Instead of spinning the front wheel, compress the forks several times. Tighten left side. Compress a few more times. Tighten right side. Compress a few more times to check for binding. Ride!

I've used both methods and both work fine IMO. If I have a stand avaliable I'll use the spin method.

Good luck,
Scott