Suspension Rods

[TVRider]

Does anyone know where I can buy suspension rods to lower my '03 KDX a little?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Kawadougie]

http://www.devolracing.com/

 

[Braahp]

http://www.koubalink.com/kdxinstall.html

 

[canyncarvr]

The devols require kx250 bolts. They will not fit using the oem hardware (bolts).

Devol rods are good for about a 3/8" lower seat height when set to the 'longer' setting.

Koubalinks are available that will lower the kdx several inches!

Consider that 'comfortable' height that entails being able to easily reach the ground may hinder better form/technique thru development of bad habits.

Angst over inability to touch can be cured with sufficient right-wrist-twist! ;)

 

[TVRider]

Guys,

Thanks for the links.

CC,

I am thinking about lowering the bike because I found out a couple days after I got it that I have a bulging disc in my back. It turns out the calf strain I had been experiencing was actually the nerve being compressed by the disc. :whiner: Anyway, I was hoping to make it a little easier to get off in low speed crashes and easier to start when on a hill, etc. I mean it's a new bike I can't just not ride while I heal :eek: I know that if I lower the rear I need to lower the front a corresponding amount in order to keep handling from getting messed up (right?). Because it's a new bike I was told to ride a bit to break in the suspension before I set the race sag. I will definately do that before I order new links. Maybe that will lower it enough that I don't need the links. Any comments would be welcome.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[canyncarvr]

Sorry to hear that.

You might consider getting a shorty kicker like FRP has. That makes it quite a bit easier to start for a number of reasons. It's easier to reach cuz it's not 'up' so far on top, and it's easier to reach cuz it's not 'down' so far on the bottom.

The 'ride a bit' before setting the sag maybe isn't a bad idea...but it's not a matter of mile and miles. Beside...just cuz you set it doesn't mean you can't reset it a month later. It's unlikely it's way out of whack off the showroom floor, but parts of an inch make a pretty big difference.

There's an added reason to change the pullrods. The increased length increases the amount of shock travel for a given swingarm input. It makes the shock action more linear to swingarm travel. I believe both the koubalink site and the devol site mention this.

Note that if your on the edge of 'correct' for the shock spring (say 190+) rate, a longer pullrod will exacerbate that issue. You could conceivably be needing a 5.2kg/mm shock spring. You'll know that by the free sag (bike on its own) measurement after you set the race sag (normally to 100mm/4" or so).

I run my fork tubes even in the top clamp (cap sticks out). Tried them higher. Didn't like it.

Another large advantage (sez me) to the devol rods is they are much easier to assemble. Being thicker they sit easily on the shoulder of the kx250 bolts (they being longer). The oem stamped steel rods do not fit so easily, especially after a lube job when the seals are full of grease.

Beside that, they sure are purty!!

If you have to rest up to heal up...do it. No reason to be a weenie due to some discomfort, but don't rush something that MUST have time to heal.

.....more sez me......

 

[TVRider]

CC,

Thanks for the input. I currently weigh 182 without gear but I'm dropping like a rock. I'm down 17lbs since December. This dirt bike thing inspired me to get in shape. The Dr. says I can do anything in moderation including weight lifting so I plan to lose another 10lbs. We'll see. It sounds like I would not be on the edge of the stock spring. Ted at Devol said his links are adjustable, so I could always go back to more of a "stock" setting I guess. Kouba sells 3 different sets of links and only recommends the shortest of the 3 for my weight unless I'm not a very aggessive rider. I am coming from a completely Trials background so I'm still trying to pick up on technique, etc. What didn't you like about moving the forks up? Do you have the Devol links and are they lowering your bike? The two are interrelated aren't they. Is my impression wrong. If you lower the back you have to lower the front to keep the handleing close to stock? It sounds like the Devol's are the way to go.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[TVRider]

By the way, I just received my FRP kicker in the mail. You had suggested it in an earlier post. I read and obey! :worship:

 

[canyncarvr]

I have the devol links. They are set to 'longer', so yes. The bike is lower. My sag is set to 100mm. Free sag is just under an inch. I'm around 176-180# w/no stuff.

Agreed the front/rear should be balanced. I didn't find raising the forks to be of any particular benefit. Steering may have been a bit quicker. I know it is by the physcial rules, so maybe that part was all in my head. Having a wer stabilizer I'm already losing some room-to-move for the front tire. I don't need even less by raising the forks in the clamps. I have no sense of 'out of balance' with the bike.

Conversely, I did try a 95mm sag once. Too much of the 'stink bug' effect for me.

The proof of the pudding will be in your eating. Set the devols to 'long' (done by insertion of an off-center holed nut in a corresponding nut-shaped hole in the pull rod), set your sag to 100mm or so, take it for a spin. Changing the fork position takes only a few minutes. Set to suit.

Oh..be sure to read the note sheet that came with the kicker. If it didn't come with, get one. You could do without a broken clutch cover I presume?

I think I kind'a harped on that already. Have fun with the o-rings!

 

[TVRider]

I just got my WER stabilizer, it came from FRP today too. What do you mean by "losing some room to move"? Does it limit the steering radius?

 

[canyncarvr]

No.

With the mounting plate plus the spacers required to clear the fender the fender is lowered by about 1/2".

Doubt that amounts to anything problem-wise (reduction in fork travel), but that in addition to raising the fork tubes in the clamps might.

It hadn't better limit steering radius!! Be sure to install as per notes included. The stabilizer arm must be 90º (well, isn't it always? Make it 2100 hours!) to the body of the damper when the forks are straight ahead. Check to make sure the damper arm travel limit isn't exceeded when the forks are on the stops.

Keep the rod straight! That will require drilling a hole. Use the existing large hole for mounting and you will have to use a couple of spacers on the rod hardware...even then it won't be straight. Straight is good!

You'll waste your new wer pronto if you use it for a fork stop.