Moose95

Sponsoring Member
Mar 9, 2002
328
0
Hey Guys,
I've had my KDX for about three months now and feel the need to adjust the suspension a tad bit (it's still at stock settings). I've read through the owners manule but am unsure about how to set the forks and rear shock for a 5'11 185lbs rider. I'm finding that the front end tends to "swim" a bit in the loose stuff. The rear skips when it hits rocks and solid edges climbing hills or on the flat tracks too. Any help would be appreciated, thanks y'all are great!
 

Cactus Jim

Member
Apr 1, 2002
94
0
I think you'll find everyone has their own ideas about what works for them. For me, at 6-1 & 182 +/- :D , I found the stock front springs way too soft. I went with 142# RaceTech. Stiffened a lot and I love it. I also like the rear a little softer, so I backed off on the compression and rebound settings. For desert riding (usually in higher gears) this works great.

I think if you get a shop manual it will help with a lot of things. Good luck.
 

Dazza

Member
Jan 1, 2002
122
0
I'm 6'3" don't know this pound **** but 93kg
Factory XR 400 springs in the front and revalve with race tech and you will love it.I do.Had race tech springs and eibach but could not keep pre load.
XR 400 and haven't ajusted the preload(3 years so far)
For the rear I found factory was fine just tune damper rebound to suit your style
 

Fred T

Mi. Trail Riders
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Mar 23, 2001
5,272
2
Try this on the shock.

Turn top clicker to the right (firmer) 1-2 clicks and turn the botton shock clicker to the right 2-3 clicks and see if the skipping gets better. I suspeck you need it firmer back there with especially more rebound to stop the hopping.

Can't help you with the front forks if you still have stock springs in there.

Also most important is set your race sag to between 90-100 MM.

Put bike on a crate with all weight off rear so it hangs and measure from top of axle bolt to a point on the rear fender. Write that measurement down. Now get a buddy to measure it again with you sitting on the bike with both feet on the pegs. Write that down and subtract if from the first measurement - that is your race sag. Adjust the prepoad on the shock spring until you get it to 90-100 MM. (It's about 3 7/8 inches)

The bike will behave best with these settings.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
This reinforcement of what's already been said pretty much........

If your suspension hasn't been touched since you got the bike, it's goobered guaranteed.

I see only one mention of sag setting. That should have been done out of the box. OK...so it wasn't, so do it now. An improperly set rear sag will screw up the front, the back, the middle and all points between.;)

I've tried 90mm and hated it...it's going to be a personal setting. I suggest 100mm/4 inches.


Oh...loosen the locking spanner with a drift/punch, adjust the retainer spanner by turning the spring (unloaded), NOT wrenching the spanner. It works great to use a couple of tie-down straps to hold the bike upright (say between garage door rails) when checking for the 100mm. You'll still need someone to do the measuring, but won't need anyone to hold the bike up.

Then, go to some suspension sites and read up on how to set the clickers.

It's never going to work with the stock fork springs. What dazza said. To a T!
 

et998

Member
Mar 24, 2002
13
0
if your bike is three months old(as in bought new)the best hundred bucks you'll spend is tossing those oem dunlops.if you haven't done so already.
 

Moose95

Sponsoring Member
Mar 9, 2002
328
0
Thanks Guys, lotsa stuff out there on suspension set up, almost like the oil:gas mixture debate ;) . I'm going to tinker around with the rear shock this weekend since it's been raining so much around here, heck some dude is building a huge boat next door and has a butt load of animals in his yard too :) So it looks like a wash out weekend for riding. Another quick question; I know that I can keep the stock S/A and change out the pipe. I'm looking at the FMF Gnarley, how much of a job is it to change out the pipe? Is is a job that I should do myself or should I pay the local shop to do it and save myself any "surprises"? Keeping in mind that I'm a newby mechanic with out a shop manual? Speaking of which, where can I get one of those for a good price? Money isn't too much of an issue, but if I can save some bucks it'll go towards some oversized foot pegs :confused: Thanks again and I hope the weather is better where you guys are!
 

Fred T

Mi. Trail Riders
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Mar 23, 2001
5,272
2
Moose, the pipe swap is a beeese. It's best if you dive in and larn to work on your scoot so you can have it ready to ride.. All you do is pop off the side cover and number plate. remove the silencer and pipe. SAVE the pipr exhause "O" rings. Put them on the shiney new pipe and put the pipe back on.

Investigate this site for tons of information: http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/
 

gooby

Member
Nov 8, 2001
497
0
yes what the guys said already sag #1 ,springs then tune to your liking.pipe like fred mentioned is no biggie.btw noone mentioned repacking the rear link,swingarm and steering stem with real grease on a new bike ......you'll be sorry if you don't
 

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