suspension set-up

[ZKDX]

Can anyone help me understand how to tell when my suspension is setup correctly. i've gone through the :determining sag and such. but i really just don't understand it all. For instance; how much dampening should you have, rebound, what specifically does the adjustment at the top of my shock do, what about the nitrogen canister. Sorry if i seem to be just completely dumb, but there's something about how all the aspects of the rear suspension work together that i'm not quite grasping

 

[MDA]

You are not alone. Being new to riding myself, I don't really know what I am looking for either. I don't know what to look for in a suspension setup. My bike is currently set up pretty plush, which makes it easy on the back-side for long trail rides. I'd like to set it up for maximum performance, but I have no reference point to determine what that is.

Looking forward to hearing what people have to say on the subject...

-Mark-

 

[ZKDX]

glad to hear i'm not the only one...i too have mine set pretty comfortable for woods riding and my homemade track. i did learn just from playing with suspensions that you need your "rebound" set so the rear wheel comes back into contact with the earth fairly quick during rough riding....and that's about all i guess i know......:(

 

[dhoward]

You might ask in the suspension forum. Usually some pretty sharp suspender guys in there....

 

[keetkdx]

I located a good site werproducts.net about set ups for suspension...he is a copy of some stuff....there is more on the website such as clicker adjustments etc..


The first step we recommend is to set the rear suspension sag. Generally, the rear suspension sag should be 1/3 of the bike’s total rear wheel travel. For motocross bikes, 4” or 100mm; off-road bikes with slightly less total suspension travel such as KDX 200/220 or XR 250, should start with 90mm or 3-5/8”. Using a hammer and long punch or drift, follow these instructions to set your rear spring sag:

THIS IS A TWO PERSON OPERATION

Put the bike on a stand with both wheels off the ground.

Measure from the center of the rear axle to a fixed point on the back of the bike, such as a muffler bolt, fender bolt, or a specific point on the rear fender.

Mark the fixed point for future reference.

Take the bike off the stand and sit on it in your normal riding position. Keep your feet on the ground with just enough weight on your feet to balance the bike.

Have the other person measure from the center of the axle to the previously marked fixed point.

Calculate rider sag by subtracting the smaller from the larger measurement.

Adjust as necessary to achieve the recommended rider sag.

Note: The rider sag recommended above should be used as a guide. A different sag level may be appropriate due to differing riding styles, ability levels and riding conditions.

Always consult your manual. The manufacturers do extensive testing and while in the end their settings might not be the perfect ones for your usage or riding ability, the information is useful and valid.

Checking Clicker Settings

The next step is to check your clicker settings. Most manufacturer recommendations are achieved by starting with the clickers at full maximum (fully clockwise) and counting back to the recommended number or clicker setting. See if the manufacturer or your suspension tuner recommends 9 clicks out shock compression; turn the clicker all the way clockwise until it stops and turn it back counter clockwise 9 clicks. Check your manual and make sure the clickers match the manufacturer’s recommendation or in the case of a used bike that has already had suspension tuning by a professional, just check and note where the clickers are set. Some savvy riders like to note right on the shock and fork with an indelible marker the current clicker settings. These can easily be removed with contact cleaner.

Next check the torque spec for your front fork pinch bolts. Standard torque with 8mm pinch bolts should be 12-14 foot pounds. It is extremely important that the lower triple clamp pinch bolts not be over tightened when the bike is equipped with inverted forks, as it will cause binding and will cause poor front fork performance.

Take all possible care when riding a used bike to be sure the bearings in the linkage, swing arm, steering head and shock helm are in good condition and well greased. A dry or worn out bearing will cause poor suspension making it impossible to properly evaluate your fork and shock set up.

Now gear up and take your first test ride. Use this time to let the suspension units break in at least one to three full hours. Use this time to make some general observations about your suspension performance but avoid making harsh judgments at this point.

 

[canyncarvr]

re: how to and why

Do some looking on suspension sites, as mx-tech and such. There have been rather extensive write-ups (quite similar to the above) on what to do and why to do it. Repeating it all here is rather non-productive.


***edit***
Go here, search for <suspension>, find a bunch of sites:

http://www.motolinks.com/default.asp?a=PitStuff
****edit****


A couple of short answers: Rebound and compression are setup according to rider and conditions. They will change from time to time, for example, a good rule of thumb is add a couple clicks for starters if you're going to the dunes (sand).

Don't mess with the nitrogen canister. That is setup pressure-wise by whomever rebuilds your shock on your annual maintenance duties...not likely you.

The adjustment on the top of the shock is compression; rebound on the bottom. Note where they are (number of clicks out), then adjust them all over the place, bounce your bike around to see the range of effect you can get (no point to that...maybe just interesting).

BTW...re: the above. You don't use the hammer/drift-punch to set the spring retainer ring, but to loosen the LOCKING ring. To move the retaining ring (the one touching the spring) turn the SPRING, which will in turn move the ring. It will help to spray the spring with at least some water. Soapy water is better. Use a pair of gloves when you turn the spring.. with no weight on the suspension of course. Don't forget to tighten the lockring after you're done.

A couple of basics on shock compression/rebound. Set the compression such that it fully absorbs impacts..does not kick your butt cuz it's too slow in responding (too stiff). Set the rebound such that it doesn't 'pack'. There should be no 'additive' action on successive bumps. The shock needs to be uncompressed from the last bump before it gets smacked with another. The 'additive' action is 'packing'.

Rebound should be SLOW enough that it doesn't kick your butt (and maybe the rear wheel in the process) on its way back out, fast enough that it's set for the next bump.

An example of when you need to change something. You stall/stop for whatever reason on a fairly steep uphill. Your front wheel has an obstacle you can't get over..can't pop over it cuz you'll loop it.

You may find that a click or two LESS compression on the shock (allows the rear to 'squat' more) and one or two less compression on your forks would allow you to just 'get over it'.

A click or two can make big differences in how your bike works.

As EG says, if it's 95% rider and 5% bike, you'd better make that 5% COUNT!!

 

[jtorres]

I have one basic knowledge doubt. With the correct spring rate, how do I set the correct sag, is tit by turning the retaining ring?

 

[canyncarvr]

uh-oh..'Notify the webmaster the dialog box says....let's try this agin.

The retaining ring needs to be turned, but you can do that by turning the SPRING. That way you don't need to be pounding on stuff for a long time.

Whether you are increasing or decreasing the preload, you can do it by turning the SPRING, which of course will also turn the ring.

If you can't get a good enough bite with your hands, you can remove the LH subframe rod. That will give you a good deal more room.

 

[jtorres]

You are dfinitely the source, thanks

 

[canyncarvr]

I left this out on the third time 'round...

Whilst you turn the spring, make sure the suspension is completely unloaded (bike on a stand or somesuch). It's LOTS tougher to do with the bike sitting on it! ;)

 

[canyncarvr]

I left this out on the third time 'round...

Whilst you turn the spring, make sure the suspension is completely unloaded (bike on a stand or somesuch). It's LOTS tougher to do with the bike sitting on it! ;)

...and, you're most certainly welcome.

Don't delay setting your sag. It's important! Can make a huge difference in your bike's handling. It'll put a smile on yur face!