Suzuki RM 465
- Thread starter M Pedler
- Start date
SFO
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Feb 16, 2001
- 2,001
- 1
Ditto pantera.
No idle circuit on the carb, great rear suspension for its day, early 80's handling-uh stable. Good power with a poor fuel economy, not a trail bike.
Glue everything on the bike you want to keep.
Drilling the motor mounts out with a long aircraft drill, .375" dia, and make your own motor mount bolts out of grade 10 3/8 all thread. This will quell the vibes somewhat.
No idle circuit on the carb, great rear suspension for its day, early 80's handling-uh stable. Good power with a poor fuel economy, not a trail bike.
Glue everything on the bike you want to keep.
Drilling the motor mounts out with a long aircraft drill, .375" dia, and make your own motor mount bolts out of grade 10 3/8 all thread. This will quell the vibes somewhat.
Husky Texan
Member
- Oct 6, 2000
- 64
- 0
I had the first 81 RM465X in town back in the day. Here's what I remember doing to mine.
Added an idle screw from a PE model. It's simple. Simply drill the hole, tap it and add the screw. Should be able to find one in a junk yard. Presto, now it idles and doesn't stall. :yeehaw:
While you are at the junkyard, look at all the old 81-84 model RM's and see if you can find a set of the aluminum adjustable rear struts for the Full Floater. They will allow you to adjust the turning habits .
Install a set of fork springs appropriate for your weight. The 465 was a bit of a stinkbug with the original springs.
Start looking for another pipe ASAP. If yours isn't cracked in the main belly, IT WILL BE. :think:
File the back of the slide down if you have the round slide Mikuni. Probably .5-1 mm should do it and make it much crisper.
Watch 3rd gear for slippage. They have been known to go bye-bye.
Go to www.suzukionly.com for an article on drilling the carb for better fuel flow. The stock carb will drain the bowl at high rpm.
Once you do all this, hold on tight. :aj:
Added an idle screw from a PE model. It's simple. Simply drill the hole, tap it and add the screw. Should be able to find one in a junk yard. Presto, now it idles and doesn't stall. :yeehaw:
While you are at the junkyard, look at all the old 81-84 model RM's and see if you can find a set of the aluminum adjustable rear struts for the Full Floater. They will allow you to adjust the turning habits .
Install a set of fork springs appropriate for your weight. The 465 was a bit of a stinkbug with the original springs.
Start looking for another pipe ASAP. If yours isn't cracked in the main belly, IT WILL BE. :think:
File the back of the slide down if you have the round slide Mikuni. Probably .5-1 mm should do it and make it much crisper.
Watch 3rd gear for slippage. They have been known to go bye-bye.
Go to www.suzukionly.com for an article on drilling the carb for better fuel flow. The stock carb will drain the bowl at high rpm.
Once you do all this, hold on tight. :aj:
Husky Texan
Member
- Oct 6, 2000
- 64
- 0
The 465 was a typical Japanese big-bore from the 80's. It was hard to jet, wouldn't run clean and detonated when it was jetted crisply. :ugg: What we did to try and clean up the bottom end jetting was to file off .5mm to 1 mm from the airbox side of the slide. This effectively made the slide a higher number slide and leaned out the jetting up to about 1/4 throttle. You still need to run a high quality gas or you will get detonation. We didn't have race gas readily available back then, but I would recommend trying it.
Husky Texan
Member
- Oct 6, 2000
- 64
- 0
I beleive I was running a 50 or 55 pilot, needle in 3rd position and standard main. I was at sea level, high humidity (80%+), and average temps in the 80's. I also had Boyesen reeds. Good luck.